tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-48437245931506147792024-03-21T10:17:33.354-06:00Jasmin's Adventure JournalJasminhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18106615510798115812noreply@blogger.comBlogger98125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4843724593150614779.post-91039080271717666232016-06-27T14:37:00.000-06:002016-06-27T14:37:05.599-06:00A lap up Gimli and Sunglasses Day ContestWent for an early season lap on the South Ridge of Gimli. First time in the alpine without skis this year, and it felt so good to be rock climbing in my home mountains again. Some pics from the day:<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nick following one of the initial pitches.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nick on the roof pitch.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Enjoying some summit snacks with the gorgeous peaks of the Valhallas behind.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pretty sweet day in the mountains. </td></tr>
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Randolph Engineering, a sunglasses company, is holding a contest and you can win four pairs of their sweet aviator shades. Here's some details on the contest:<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/gxKnbnqZ8AU" width="560"></iframe><br />
<a href="https://www.blogger.com/goog_1296798583"><br /></a>
<a href="http://www.randolphusa.com/seen-it-all/">http://www.randolphusa.com/seen-it-all/</a>Jasminhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18106615510798115812noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4843724593150614779.post-84761137941259437172015-07-24T08:01:00.001-06:002015-07-24T08:03:49.943-06:00Purcell Wilderness Wildness<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9napD3SvOnv7z3162AZTyJTjXFbXkOlHKPd_n3rZFquTVxRkWhIpcinPNcujpVUf8jGH6VVNVh8qvWiAfQ-oISFSZIhu6hZqOJaK2wKXLxWcOTYmLL0i9XB6nn2FZ-0-6KN2lSvKP9SXk/s1600/IMG_2858.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9napD3SvOnv7z3162AZTyJTjXFbXkOlHKPd_n3rZFquTVxRkWhIpcinPNcujpVUf8jGH6VVNVh8qvWiAfQ-oISFSZIhu6hZqOJaK2wKXLxWcOTYmLL0i9XB6nn2FZ-0-6KN2lSvKP9SXk/s320/IMG_2858.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sunrise on Hall Peak, Block Tower and Wall Tower (L-R) from camp</td></tr>
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The full story in my words will be coming soon, but Chris van Leuven at The Alpinist did a great writeup on my recent trip to the Leaning Towers in the Purcell Wilderness Conservancy with Kate Rutherford. <a href="http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web15x/newswire-rutherford-caton-purcell-wilderness-leaning-towers">Link to it here.</a> It was one of the best (and burliest) alpine climbing trips I've done. We did two first ascents, one on Block Tower, one on Wall Tower and repeated an established route on Wall Tower. For now, just a few snaps of the trip. Stay tuned for more.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Camp as viewed from the moraine above, on our way up to climb the first ascent of State of Wonder</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kate following one of the best pitches of the trip, a clean 5.10 thin hands splitter</td></tr>
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<br />Jasminhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18106615510798115812noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4843724593150614779.post-76072271020106960012015-05-23T14:46:00.001-06:002015-05-24T21:43:48.196-06:00Chamonix, a ski pilgrimage<div>
I am at the crest of a wildly exposed ridge, and my heart will not stop pounding. I arrived in Chamonix less than 12 hours ago and now I am at 3900m, having tagged along on a ski day with esteemed IFMGA Mountain Guide Caroline George and the rock climbing legend Liv Sansoz. We have pounded up here in a few short hours and I am feeling out of my element. Skinning - fine. Bootpacking - fine. But put together with jet lag, altitude, lack of a real meal in the past 24 hours and discovering that the crampons I had brought for the day were broken, I am feeling close to the edge of my physical comfort zone. I watch Caroline deftly complete a wildly exposed down climb into the the line we hope to ski. I begin to follow but the underlying snow is firm and I climb back up to the ridge, quaking at the fear of plunging straight off the side of the mountain. Liv offers me a belay and I take it, ego bruise dwarfed by my fear of blowing it on day 1 of a dream trip to Cham, and to be honest, the fear of my own death, which guides so many of my decisions in the mountains. I climb down to the softer snow and untie from the rope, but by this time Caroline has determined the line is too firm and we climb back out.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Liv ascending the final slopes on the Milieu Glacier on the Aguille d'Argentiere</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHOMoZwe8877li-UK9sMuvQv-5_DpgZYczVs74WPXXelETKNEbNVEBFY1L-F1zkRTcFJCs2eUVRbDnEgBiBSzAk473FOAK_7UPWpulfW_PlbbSBUPL1NKupLMOpQeTYbfZOHKYGyAHEJhJ/s1600/IMG_9772.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHOMoZwe8877li-UK9sMuvQv-5_DpgZYczVs74WPXXelETKNEbNVEBFY1L-F1zkRTcFJCs2eUVRbDnEgBiBSzAk473FOAK_7UPWpulfW_PlbbSBUPL1NKupLMOpQeTYbfZOHKYGyAHEJhJ/s400/IMG_9772.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Caroline, Liv and I on the summit of Aguille d'Argentiere</td></tr>
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Day two provides challenges of a different nature, with a different partner. <a href="http://www.fredrikmarmsater.com/#/371394/Home">Fred Marmsater</a>, a friend and talented adventure photographer has travelled to Cham to ski and shoot some photos with me. Starting the day with no firm plan and later than is ideal, we find ourselves ascending a warm slope underneath another party. It's steep and the route of ascent is right up the middle of the face, where anything dislodged by overlying skiers would have the potential to knock you out of the shallow bootpack and straight into the gaping bergschrund. We contemplate our options, contemplate bailing several times, and when it looks like the party above us is getting ready to start skiing down we do bail, still well below the top of the slope. The skiing is tough, really variable snow and the angle and the threat of falling the bergschrund has me tense. Fred is encouraging, a real cheerleader, and deftly demonstrates how to air over the 'schrund with control. I pause, chicken out at the last second and opt for the shorter drop with the worse landing and bail as soon as I hit the lower slope. Laughing, nervous, excited to push myself but also feeling in over my head, my mind is swirling with so many thoughts and feelings. This sensation is a common element of the most rewarding and scary times of my life. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fred climbing up to the top of Point d'Orny at sunrise </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fred descending from the Col d'Amethystes</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQwYPwl844otYY7oXRWo4JF93NrYpD25sWhJNFxnyTOHffKwyr78m2X8W4baprWn8LLKVeEq7NjADvK-qB3JZ7GdpFcGN2-ZpV68rty2L6heIwqOVmCdikVcYWDIsS5qzM2qrqGNpSCktq/s1600/IMG_0025.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQwYPwl844otYY7oXRWo4JF93NrYpD25sWhJNFxnyTOHffKwyr78m2X8W4baprWn8LLKVeEq7NjADvK-qB3JZ7GdpFcGN2-ZpV68rty2L6heIwqOVmCdikVcYWDIsS5qzM2qrqGNpSCktq/s400/IMG_0025.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fred shredding some pow off the Grands Montets</td></tr>
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The remainder of the trip was punctuated by so many of these moments. Fear induced dry mouth as I rapped into a steep and firm couloir, realizing that at some point I would have to detach from the rope and rely on my skis, my legs, to safely carry me down to the glacier far below. Dizzying exposure as I crampon up a knife edge ridge, focussing hard on not tripping and pushing away the feeling that the skis on my back are pulling me off balance. Pure joy as I gaze at the unlikely geometry of diamond spires and fragmented glaciers, floating above the clouds and bathed by the most calming pink light.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px;">Fred raps down to my stance in the Capucin Couloir</td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGVqBQBTFw9LZO4JLYkjl7aMc5gPVSfogr2QaJjVdpaL2CRO0yQ8raA-sUvyouNq-27Nk1KLpvEQTzzKAjK6lc3DWrEZqIt2xIhyXvbRD7BEoWhWmWL4v5AMrDvIRpiyxbHOlOnaOX-zOk/s1600/IMG_0157.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGVqBQBTFw9LZO4JLYkjl7aMc5gPVSfogr2QaJjVdpaL2CRO0yQ8raA-sUvyouNq-27Nk1KLpvEQTzzKAjK6lc3DWrEZqIt2xIhyXvbRD7BEoWhWmWL4v5AMrDvIRpiyxbHOlOnaOX-zOk/s400/IMG_0157.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px;">Sunset on the spires, as seen from the summit of the Aguille du Tour</td></tr>
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It was the trip of a lifetime. Not for the reason that I won't be able to go there again, but because next time I won't be a Cham virgin. The whole trip my eyes were so wide, taking in the landscape, the techniques required to climb and ski, the culture of negotiating the mountains in the company of hundreds of other climbers and skiers. I was fortunate enough to share my adventures with the best partners, solid mountain people who shared my respect for the hazards and giddy joy at the pure fun of mountain play. As Mary Oliver puts it, "Let me keep company, always, with those who say 'look!' and laugh in astonishment and bow their heads."<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijKANfNFZPuW483dINkE_c3QnZntTvZDbVgtH9ggHZhgmno2BVBvWKU07hVmj_U694yzUGK2LlYDTSLlE2oE1-4grMKpbfHn_Hd_MzXFSXfM3Fn3Y6tD5EAnTcAls82-65nPyGX9NL-ceB/s1600/IMG_9828.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="font-size: medium; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijKANfNFZPuW483dINkE_c3QnZntTvZDbVgtH9ggHZhgmno2BVBvWKU07hVmj_U694yzUGK2LlYDTSLlE2oE1-4grMKpbfHn_Hd_MzXFSXfM3Fn3Y6tD5EAnTcAls82-65nPyGX9NL-ceB/s400/IMG_9828.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Managed to eat most of a baguette every day of the trip, and sometimes would even just strap one to the side of my pack in the morning. This bakery was conveniently located right next to the Midi base station.</td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi10tlTkG7QQx6EMnkzhMj501u2bKD_3s-ODEX_ytpckUMu-xNEZaw32YzZb746TLWirGa9bY_5vevx4syExnQiPecJC21uuriMf1Khdeen5G6zTr4hWEBSBwfzc2l89CUFVY1dTE8k1nYn/s1600/IMG_0161.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi10tlTkG7QQx6EMnkzhMj501u2bKD_3s-ODEX_ytpckUMu-xNEZaw32YzZb746TLWirGa9bY_5vevx4syExnQiPecJC21uuriMf1Khdeen5G6zTr4hWEBSBwfzc2l89CUFVY1dTE8k1nYn/s400/IMG_0161.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px;">Fred somewhere between laughing, saying "look!", and bowing his head in wonder<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9uA4y4KzSa-b3E1h6lZSNadTeaSgoXeaZHavCQtsCKSc4VLH4F_JCue2AI_UvPqwpfHKt4KukYODzRyzdmcchVQR1f1fR8oLO9n8wQp_eCnna_-boxhchO4nVDF3NHYcsqLC8B1ZBx7yl/s1600/IMG_9884.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9uA4y4KzSa-b3E1h6lZSNadTeaSgoXeaZHavCQtsCKSc4VLH4F_JCue2AI_UvPqwpfHKt4KukYODzRyzdmcchVQR1f1fR8oLO9n8wQp_eCnna_-boxhchO4nVDF3NHYcsqLC8B1ZBx7yl/s400/IMG_9884.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The beginning of many Cham adventures is something between a group hug and a mosh pit in the crammed quarters of the Midi bin.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbEPjHUcnBt-m-2dEh4y1cVu_OnUe8NpsSfZq7FPMvbPhtlvXAiovLxVXd0RgtwTfFXbLjlTTGJRNyOzGcBISYJt8ih-AApx0ynnnqavK2j572e2keImJPzqHAlYFzUYsIE4FfY5sE_5MU/s1600/IMG_0127.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbEPjHUcnBt-m-2dEh4y1cVu_OnUe8NpsSfZq7FPMvbPhtlvXAiovLxVXd0RgtwTfFXbLjlTTGJRNyOzGcBISYJt8ih-AApx0ynnnqavK2j572e2keImJPzqHAlYFzUYsIE4FfY5sE_5MU/s400/IMG_0127.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me chillin' with one of the many amazing sculptures at the Cabane du Trient</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjacRZQC1f-xyPegQulPatWlvQ6ossAU0IEXmR6RuUu5hCy2dOiuiFFk3ZNiOpDVLWehOpYUZLT475XYKxsm5jQA8hwsE_vtfVO_u9wTC3TvnN6xUXryETSq9Y4No5-VsJbBgcgcJdJFym1/s1600/IMG_0139.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjacRZQC1f-xyPegQulPatWlvQ6ossAU0IEXmR6RuUu5hCy2dOiuiFFk3ZNiOpDVLWehOpYUZLT475XYKxsm5jQA8hwsE_vtfVO_u9wTC3TvnN6xUXryETSq9Y4No5-VsJbBgcgcJdJFym1/s400/IMG_0139.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fred scampering up the Aguille du Tour</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnon7Ef2qB_f1HzZBRy7yfTjwCuh8mt-Ull81SkLkqj11GEWiyVNGlHVA6HX1vvJs9QXKdBlrgz8_qpWy2Bmf2BI5bDxTsjBEkX4XCZloh2FjXrXWHYRn8YzD-uTD5Va_LmmudbdboLr61/s1600/IMG_0147.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnon7Ef2qB_f1HzZBRy7yfTjwCuh8mt-Ull81SkLkqj11GEWiyVNGlHVA6HX1vvJs9QXKdBlrgz8_qpWy2Bmf2BI5bDxTsjBEkX4XCZloh2FjXrXWHYRn8YzD-uTD5Va_LmmudbdboLr61/s400/IMG_0147.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fred celebrating on the summit of the Aguille du Tour</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjx2YYeibk9ALh3bWhhMGegKs8pKDes1BYEqoUJeo9wGk-DGEXphxadFcCTxtV3DnMBQhQTQqF6BUMfDRmxugAhS8hs4A2fvJ23Fa5bEBS7aJkjO1Rm7tHxIcxfiITf4E_JQ88qvHWDfAOx/s1600/IMG_9897.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjx2YYeibk9ALh3bWhhMGegKs8pKDes1BYEqoUJeo9wGk-DGEXphxadFcCTxtV3DnMBQhQTQqF6BUMfDRmxugAhS8hs4A2fvJ23Fa5bEBS7aJkjO1Rm7tHxIcxfiITf4E_JQ88qvHWDfAOx/s400/IMG_9897.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jamie Bond trying to get to Italy for lunch.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTULz_wN93cuwJSfVQj2DuqOqfJl14-Jn1CkcunHsWY8w3xZzVwJ60YbqtImgAPFDStmjHAwoOHGNghRsXd4_zCkd0IhchHFa3ReebXaTAILabgNVHr2JvwEkmRaihLJXXczWNy5-uQ4Dp/s1600/IMG_9902.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTULz_wN93cuwJSfVQj2DuqOqfJl14-Jn1CkcunHsWY8w3xZzVwJ60YbqtImgAPFDStmjHAwoOHGNghRsXd4_zCkd0IhchHFa3ReebXaTAILabgNVHr2JvwEkmRaihLJXXczWNy5-uQ4Dp/s400/IMG_9902.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A fun and relatively mellow tour had us descend to the mid-station above Courmayeur for lunch in Italy. This 'salad' was mostly cheese and bacon, with a few veggies for garnish. So good! </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzOAPj-b-Rdf4wID81fmAY-TkcYJYAktlgRB6vw9q5vY7qcr57WnpTmhNXWLkyAFJ7TB992zeu_dv2DlMMotqsniYYGHoQyNuBJnVX9kaB9lIg8uTbp8D3mr_UVBDMHhYM6SP94-cX96KV/s1600/IMG_0164.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzOAPj-b-Rdf4wID81fmAY-TkcYJYAktlgRB6vw9q5vY7qcr57WnpTmhNXWLkyAFJ7TB992zeu_dv2DlMMotqsniYYGHoQyNuBJnVX9kaB9lIg8uTbp8D3mr_UVBDMHhYM6SP94-cX96KV/s400/IMG_0164.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Star rise on the Aguille du Tour as we make our way back to the hut</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihu4-xLXcXec_N2Y0FlUENwjfHDmwTq_VQbJZfBq_nGqrOdzu258WI8Imqbs_iQ0SdKiT3Dl2heVwfZ-u68F6MyRoYOt8PtxZQFQgPVEONAGXVLdMreGU9jEZlAnA-7tcR9GCQEfTaIAIz/s1600/IMG_0207.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihu4-xLXcXec_N2Y0FlUENwjfHDmwTq_VQbJZfBq_nGqrOdzu258WI8Imqbs_iQ0SdKiT3Dl2heVwfZ-u68F6MyRoYOt8PtxZQFQgPVEONAGXVLdMreGU9jEZlAnA-7tcR9GCQEfTaIAIz/s400/IMG_0207.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Evan shredding some lift accessed pow in front of the Aguille Vert</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzQA0Okz9xG0eE93lDNV1GR-vjwXspx3Lcztr5lUMYBrGWHgyZok-JLMUF8CJm5waT-5oinjOdR3nHdVBRcvdRpDiJ5KH9L8CAwwreR6eLqpCAa3yJq2KJN2Ejnsio6fJmHKUM60V2j3cx/s1600/IMG_0346.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzQA0Okz9xG0eE93lDNV1GR-vjwXspx3Lcztr5lUMYBrGWHgyZok-JLMUF8CJm5waT-5oinjOdR3nHdVBRcvdRpDiJ5KH9L8CAwwreR6eLqpCAa3yJq2KJN2Ejnsio6fJmHKUM60V2j3cx/s400/IMG_0346.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.doglotion.com/">Jamie Bond</a>, Caroline, Evan and HP heading around La Tour Rond to sniff out the snow in the Gervasutti. The line looked amazing but the snow was a stiff, hollow windslab and we bailed</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg63hNAygTEj4QPDs7riqE0tZUObT4To8Ubd_TO_-oaSPCEi97QBN75o32wfT7zc9nw2aH5_d3PRU2IDFG_7r1_Zopy1TFZfIMq4a9vho6zFMOJ4zSf8bNCRS5OV2NNfv6-YnU1pEz79Nfx/s1600/IMG_0355.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg63hNAygTEj4QPDs7riqE0tZUObT4To8Ubd_TO_-oaSPCEi97QBN75o32wfT7zc9nw2aH5_d3PRU2IDFG_7r1_Zopy1TFZfIMq4a9vho6zFMOJ4zSf8bNCRS5OV2NNfv6-YnU1pEz79Nfx/s400/IMG_0355.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Alpine chough, a relative of the crow, kept us company at many of our snack spots. Fun fact from Wikipedia: these birds are monogamous</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg63tQNrgmlAKTOGP_BAwcyZBP89k6Oft6k9EL2e4dNzRjfwPWIYxnb0hiF867nk-8645lBD2O3Unp506N8diNehQGWKRcmHc5KCM_a5YOEGAYelhISG_nXBGDPv4HdH3zIvenrNse603Ry/s1600/IMG_0357.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg63tQNrgmlAKTOGP_BAwcyZBP89k6Oft6k9EL2e4dNzRjfwPWIYxnb0hiF867nk-8645lBD2O3Unp506N8diNehQGWKRcmHc5KCM_a5YOEGAYelhISG_nXBGDPv4HdH3zIvenrNse603Ry/s400/IMG_0357.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A group deskins at the Col d'Entreves with the inspiring face of the Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey in the background</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilVzq4S6oHjpYFc06y_0wvZ9ctX79nf8NR3WZIzFVvuBOWTrzWStUpVjakEKNOQcPQZ6N8g9_x6uQ_mN5Bl5TEgp49gPROxKwtJnWwXP3yhS4Hhzckn_f3yPsB1oWKza9ICTVXMR0UtXIV/s1600/IMG_0370.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilVzq4S6oHjpYFc06y_0wvZ9ctX79nf8NR3WZIzFVvuBOWTrzWStUpVjakEKNOQcPQZ6N8g9_x6uQ_mN5Bl5TEgp49gPROxKwtJnWwXP3yhS4Hhzckn_f3yPsB1oWKza9ICTVXMR0UtXIV/s400/IMG_0370.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The rate of glacial retreat in the Alps is terrifying. Here is the toe of the Mer de Glace, the end of the famous Vallee Blanche descent. Each year, more steps must be added to enable skiers to climb out of the valley and onto the platform of the gondola, which was initially positioned right at the edge of the glacier. The 2010 level is already many steps up.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDH9WTDTaJSU-p-Z31TDVSwn-1D3L0tPiqenjdmFz5Gt6J4ueBMxerWfMzZDRK2hWk-IyIQyZctLevkXezpG-LC22R4RQNld6q6mySoXUM2VHcqm-_baeLXVKm1M4aAbu1i1oMWU_V310R/s1600/IMG_0455.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDH9WTDTaJSU-p-Z31TDVSwn-1D3L0tPiqenjdmFz5Gt6J4ueBMxerWfMzZDRK2hWk-IyIQyZctLevkXezpG-LC22R4RQNld6q6mySoXUM2VHcqm-_baeLXVKm1M4aAbu1i1oMWU_V310R/s400/IMG_0455.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Evan gunning for the summit of the Finsteraarhorn in the Bernese Oberland. We were turned around on this mission by super nuking winds.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjomiVY-vrraW7g8XopoQBBHBGqIrLBr1s6KDvryi_V7lxwchTa4J5M2YWqaZTqQabHVbu_adZ8VJRo116sZP8dT0Yog77UxGPBhjSvyg0DsqkRCSwEVJ2l3e_F7tzvQkReceta4QRWu3Oq/s1600/IMG_0457.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjomiVY-vrraW7g8XopoQBBHBGqIrLBr1s6KDvryi_V7lxwchTa4J5M2YWqaZTqQabHVbu_adZ8VJRo116sZP8dT0Yog77UxGPBhjSvyg0DsqkRCSwEVJ2l3e_F7tzvQkReceta4QRWu3Oq/s400/IMG_0457.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The consolation prize was Abeni Flue a great summit and ski. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-Ax2TIIdNcSj5HdFnPc2WkS013LFMR9K740o1VgPeyWPfiGgkqrOxN-vkr_8kwDlZHcIswNvWCbcxaPF196s7oHHX6moRMsieBC_Piml_0xicalyoCdbuHJerm0MKpKEtafjwkbPi3wJ3/s1600/IMG_0473.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-Ax2TIIdNcSj5HdFnPc2WkS013LFMR9K740o1VgPeyWPfiGgkqrOxN-vkr_8kwDlZHcIswNvWCbcxaPF196s7oHHX6moRMsieBC_Piml_0xicalyoCdbuHJerm0MKpKEtafjwkbPi3wJ3/s400/IMG_0473.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The wildly positioned Hollandiahutte where we spent our second night on the Bernese Oberland mission</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8OhciOMl5q3ODInuTsC9ajPmI9g1A4kif5LNN5-Bxi3OlUeSX2rAb7S2jH9uZun5sfJ-gw2Msoh2p00TzGcKHL4fsmqtKNvyz6x04olVFt-6x4JQ2kcucuwsD98DlIlmO3-5Xx8GClHUq/s1600/IMG_0489.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8OhciOMl5q3ODInuTsC9ajPmI9g1A4kif5LNN5-Bxi3OlUeSX2rAb7S2jH9uZun5sfJ-gw2Msoh2p00TzGcKHL4fsmqtKNvyz6x04olVFt-6x4JQ2kcucuwsD98DlIlmO3-5Xx8GClHUq/s400/IMG_0489.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our final ski mission was this peak, the Mittaghorn, which rewarded us with a 2200m descent to valley bottom</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiO88e7ZZ5vWU1mI_n1Wa1cMLXg1MmezTECb1xjOLRnVa_5bzLCi_4xdOuwbwfvTijweFhx0qwwKle0AVZ7YRWwtSSgDF8Zrh8B0FLEGIZVQAo1V2woC8VjnoEUBJbrMiHbffCFPAhy_5nn/s1600/IMG_0506.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiO88e7ZZ5vWU1mI_n1Wa1cMLXg1MmezTECb1xjOLRnVa_5bzLCi_4xdOuwbwfvTijweFhx0qwwKle0AVZ7YRWwtSSgDF8Zrh8B0FLEGIZVQAo1V2woC8VjnoEUBJbrMiHbffCFPAhy_5nn/s400/IMG_0506.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Evan and Caroline making their way down the ice fall on the Mittaghorn</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMCnD1l3IAHSgDyRxY1VmI3UkJwgx3zPH8d4FxNIw5rfdj8xz8W_6dZXPk4aE7rLTRtdPb9Q7-YeIXW3XDDI_ZE6rWsns59DVux70YSOESxDjv6GLQEHh-ZrD3-RInlbMLtgxn3EpF5A9Q/s1600/IMG_0510.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMCnD1l3IAHSgDyRxY1VmI3UkJwgx3zPH8d4FxNIw5rfdj8xz8W_6dZXPk4aE7rLTRtdPb9Q7-YeIXW3XDDI_ZE6rWsns59DVux70YSOESxDjv6GLQEHh-ZrD3-RInlbMLtgxn3EpF5A9Q/s400/IMG_0510.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Heidi, I mean Evan, frolicking in the Swiss meadows on our exit from the Bernese Oberland</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZyLK9qGI3sIwchyO6PcP5kZmUJrUkubozQp_amwRe60WmHEfXWIrx9QViK07sTz7VbrgWDpxZKxBWsyOfPCj0Qwt9aXl9K6t3VKYzoiZBCYh4xUmsvb3_nwGhFARi_UFRV1trYNrgaEcO/s1600/IMG_0526.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="301" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZyLK9qGI3sIwchyO6PcP5kZmUJrUkubozQp_amwRe60WmHEfXWIrx9QViK07sTz7VbrgWDpxZKxBWsyOfPCj0Qwt9aXl9K6t3VKYzoiZBCYh4xUmsvb3_nwGhFARi_UFRV1trYNrgaEcO/s400/IMG_0526.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our home in Cham was this charming Mazot on the grounds of the Patagonia Chalet.</td></tr>
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Thank you so much to Patagonia for providing Evan and I with accommodation on this trip. <a href="http://www.genuineguidegear.com/gear/skis">G3</a> set me up with awesome Empire Carbon skis and Ion bindings, so I could ride the fat boards that I love in Cham without dragging around a heavy set up. <a href="http://www.tmebars.com/">Taos Mountain Energy</a> hooked me up with a great stash of bars because you can't eat baguette and cheese for every meal or bad things happen. And mostly, THANKS to all of you who were in on these adventures. Already planning my next trip to Cham to climb some of those jaw dropping granite spires.<br />
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Jasminhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18106615510798115812noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4843724593150614779.post-45314732691086096202014-02-28T14:29:00.002-07:002014-02-28T14:45:41.126-07:00Dispatch from the winter of contrasts. As a ski guide and ski touring lodge owner winter always passes in a blur. A day of sitting on my butt in front of the computer is the exception not the rule, and time seems to slow during these days as I get caught up on my inside jobs. I revel in this time - I can almost hear my leg muscles say "ahhhhhhhh" as they sink into the couch and my normally ski-boot clad feet say "thank goodness" as my toes spread into the furry depths of my slippers. It's nice to have a bit of time for hang-boarding, yoga, and feels great to achieve that feeling of caught-upness that comes when I tackle my to-do list.<br />
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But as I look outside, at the winter sun reflecting off the snow I know that I won't make it a whole day. Afterall, my dog needs his walk so I'll use him as an excuse and get out for a run or two. Hopefully I'll finish this little post first!<br />
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My winter up to now has been characterized by extremes: A January that was both sunny and crazy warm, followed by sunny and crazy cold. A long drought followed by 150cm of snow in a week. Two all woman's ski trips, two all men's ski trips. A month of not leaving the quiet isolation of Valhalla Mountain Touring followed by a marathon drive to Snowqualmie Pass Washington to teach a ski clinic for the Alpental Vertfest. The youngest VMT guest (Kai Everett - 7 weeks) and the oldest (Bob Workum - 82). Pushing my skis up the mountain in thigh deep snow at <a href="http://www.vmt.ca/">VMT</a> and getting whisked to the top by a snowcat at <a href="http://retallack.com/">Retallack</a>. Hero skiing in 30 degree boot top and sidestepping my way down an icy 45 degree couloir.<br />
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Most of my time and energy is spent sharing my experiences with the guests I am guiding, hence the lack of blogging. Even my best buddies in Squamish don't hear from me for months at a time. However even though I am working, being surrounded by people who are on their cherished ski vacation time is infectious! As long as I get plenty of sleep, don't drink too much and carve out a few minutes of "me time" each day I truly feel this is the best job I could ever have.<br />
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Here are a few of my favourite moments from the past few months:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEldFM50_JybZzA2q-mmq6_mHlbvHJH6py1Xvz6KimEuvl6dWnwn7wvNI-LISOKDw-gYEPCOyN05Mm5jYew0LrKsbCAAX-MzHnSMtuSRUv9kfNlYqDoTw7PejWrO-37PZlXL9IZY8L5pY7/s1600/IMG_3767.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEldFM50_JybZzA2q-mmq6_mHlbvHJH6py1Xvz6KimEuvl6dWnwn7wvNI-LISOKDw-gYEPCOyN05Mm5jYew0LrKsbCAAX-MzHnSMtuSRUv9kfNlYqDoTw7PejWrO-37PZlXL9IZY8L5pY7/s1600/IMG_3767.jpg" height="295" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The epitome of winter bliss. Rosy cheeks, tired legs and great friends to celebrate with. "Porch beers" was part of the daily schedule of the VMT Women's Week. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgMt-BT4VpFECJy2CyBrYf6L14rMH0M1JYPvujSugjLs12xUTICKgpjRBM_jfzrNa1y9Sgkovba2tdVljNBbBNSWzI5aeYwYdpXpWeAdNNNdqLDsHHpg3ttaGtq3qbAC-MLnOJ93Zlxy2a/s1600/IMG_3933.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgMt-BT4VpFECJy2CyBrYf6L14rMH0M1JYPvujSugjLs12xUTICKgpjRBM_jfzrNa1y9Sgkovba2tdVljNBbBNSWzI5aeYwYdpXpWeAdNNNdqLDsHHpg3ttaGtq3qbAC-MLnOJ93Zlxy2a/s1600/IMG_3933.jpg" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It's tempting to get frustrated when it's not snowing, but far more fun to revel in the sun! </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYpBj_-UCX8qLgSwDDA5-XqTcGZUY0MCaJxnl_kCr3wYQWEDsh41bnuIghHkbr6VSXwBVYohavAwUNvJ8kGwFLy8C9fqgIdFH7x-bWwuI_p-AeenChztkt_3ymNv_nImNxGLAaGrcdk0FI/s1600/IMG_3943.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYpBj_-UCX8qLgSwDDA5-XqTcGZUY0MCaJxnl_kCr3wYQWEDsh41bnuIghHkbr6VSXwBVYohavAwUNvJ8kGwFLy8C9fqgIdFH7x-bWwuI_p-AeenChztkt_3ymNv_nImNxGLAaGrcdk0FI/s1600/IMG_3943.jpg" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Team K2 Anex 108 poised to shred the Baron Bowl, the first time in years that it's both been in stable conditions AND had good snow!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggT8VmNrjfmy3JtUmLIEyDId3c1bfZKZnJa5i2MKP7jkpSTSL1DHM3K-7W3xfs9rVU_Qv8jBSZB8KesRpnKvl6lY2stFo1rs9pQQxpvdgWT96WfSkd8lThXK4u6xbkkChOmQgbJYtPP61R/s1600/IMG_3956.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggT8VmNrjfmy3JtUmLIEyDId3c1bfZKZnJa5i2MKP7jkpSTSL1DHM3K-7W3xfs9rVU_Qv8jBSZB8KesRpnKvl6lY2stFo1rs9pQQxpvdgWT96WfSkd8lThXK4u6xbkkChOmQgbJYtPP61R/s1600/IMG_3956.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Happy guests post-Baron Bowl shred. "I can't believe we just skied that!"</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiREdZYWPPiWkTGhIFNh_kkazNVmYMcCLQzhZT3k00irjsxvZuZ0mTEd0yE-GiBoHMP7jp3U6StNxxeiBGXlbhPOcgKIFgpUkJV2KZ3Qk2atveQ0AchU6jC1ri2o4U0kd9SBeD6-7rLyZt2/s1600/IMG_3993.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiREdZYWPPiWkTGhIFNh_kkazNVmYMcCLQzhZT3k00irjsxvZuZ0mTEd0yE-GiBoHMP7jp3U6StNxxeiBGXlbhPOcgKIFgpUkJV2KZ3Qk2atveQ0AchU6jC1ri2o4U0kd9SBeD6-7rLyZt2/s1600/IMG_3993.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Guide's day off with my sweetie means going exploring in our south tenure looking for new lines. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKU1CJYxjpMtHn14bKHIeNQm3G_b4bxhEQpuPJG96o3rkllBUVRq5oQBYmhgIKlsB-Vi9a7iwIyQ4045vHC3AlvouK9EM9r0yBkI-nNBQ3RTHPXSreupXf02eN01DeNYwEqOnUFW0ftBwE/s1600/IMG_4035.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKU1CJYxjpMtHn14bKHIeNQm3G_b4bxhEQpuPJG96o3rkllBUVRq5oQBYmhgIKlsB-Vi9a7iwIyQ4045vHC3AlvouK9EM9r0yBkI-nNBQ3RTHPXSreupXf02eN01DeNYwEqOnUFW0ftBwE/s1600/IMG_4035.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Evan poised for the first descent of the Hourglass Right above Shannon Lake. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7B5QEAQg-EGrQXlQqMYJFMbU0C9OS7uc2UHlpYqKow9VlZwsbRwQQ0rqrYC1w8jmdNirz3jUCCRxfYE8NfvgLAZ-aX6MIH73Estqix_-XtybSgtQI-0KWLEOjsxpbpY-GvRhuNdq0kw02/s1600/IMG_4150.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7B5QEAQg-EGrQXlQqMYJFMbU0C9OS7uc2UHlpYqKow9VlZwsbRwQQ0rqrYC1w8jmdNirz3jUCCRxfYE8NfvgLAZ-aX6MIH73Estqix_-XtybSgtQI-0KWLEOjsxpbpY-GvRhuNdq0kw02/s1600/IMG_4150.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bhumi Mountain Camp participants skinning across the Secret Valley at Sentry Lodge</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg27BLdZmYwkdVcM18PJVM4gaM1LCTFN8eXws9VMtTRqtPrJGxYvl0d0J2v8TIiIjU04B7MseuNVNmTkNJG7N8JwpMXFeBab9H3nCnm9eMcqi4UUAd4JRJe3BJVuIvb-eqb9qPIXG-e1Bx9/s1600/IMG_4287.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg27BLdZmYwkdVcM18PJVM4gaM1LCTFN8eXws9VMtTRqtPrJGxYvl0d0J2v8TIiIjU04B7MseuNVNmTkNJG7N8JwpMXFeBab9H3nCnm9eMcqi4UUAd4JRJe3BJVuIvb-eqb9qPIXG-e1Bx9/s1600/IMG_4287.jpg" height="400" width="385" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Up-and-coming photographer Zoya Lynch shredding at Sentry Lodge</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_sSAz5HCgewB4nNfjQlHHOsi6MdSQDSE6e3M47P2owITeWEZot1ukOwol8AkgFxEY-hCLEhvmH2_Xoe2Ov3V7Ulzt_uOjlQvnLbTq9KwbtyE8K7VOsJxz3q3LzbxLz3VZQ7dsrJoYCBfR/s1600/IMG_4323.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_sSAz5HCgewB4nNfjQlHHOsi6MdSQDSE6e3M47P2owITeWEZot1ukOwol8AkgFxEY-hCLEhvmH2_Xoe2Ov3V7Ulzt_uOjlQvnLbTq9KwbtyE8K7VOsJxz3q3LzbxLz3VZQ7dsrJoYCBfR/s1600/IMG_4323.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Caroline skis down from Profanity Col, Sentry Lodge. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcDVVSHaa-j4e-NV54TcnjKGH4kl12XmGsP5BMMddTPZ0wyOooLZJ3au3bD9poFn_fS8QUPmpLvKov4-X-KP1MgRSOOQgbjQJIun52cPNjV1ZzfRGryTKK7gDJi_MQKs9wXx2n27htkTFi/s1600/IMG_4402.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcDVVSHaa-j4e-NV54TcnjKGH4kl12XmGsP5BMMddTPZ0wyOooLZJ3au3bD9poFn_fS8QUPmpLvKov4-X-KP1MgRSOOQgbjQJIun52cPNjV1ZzfRGryTKK7gDJi_MQKs9wXx2n27htkTFi/s1600/IMG_4402.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bhumi Mountain Camp Sentry Lodge crew. What a pleasure to work with these beauties. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjq_M8qUkL1jQevjZMN5vB6-Y0I3s8W8R6jd0gaiDAeaHcUIaD5-z-Ze8i02UF65ZLPBDNmlmxtyn8WKcjj3psslNDhwidfh-l-TOeiHlejCpumOR8Ek_QltE-GIZCHORMTrB1EgOSfcHIX/s1600/IMG_4527.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjq_M8qUkL1jQevjZMN5vB6-Y0I3s8W8R6jd0gaiDAeaHcUIaD5-z-Ze8i02UF65ZLPBDNmlmxtyn8WKcjj3psslNDhwidfh-l-TOeiHlejCpumOR8Ek_QltE-GIZCHORMTrB1EgOSfcHIX/s1600/IMG_4527.jpg" height="400" width="270" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">She kept us safe during the Valentine's Day week. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQEhkGC9W3zrHYy-nWJi5AjW0etW1mLG0jaAoVTK8ak46MSHItY-cQg0pV7SMDXfComuMz33VVXYAP72Rqqv_lohcCKzpNPmP2hKiz44R1hpWH5LCwrQFTWR8Og2ghN_uTvydAt-wA8J6D/s1600/IMG_4618.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQEhkGC9W3zrHYy-nWJi5AjW0etW1mLG0jaAoVTK8ak46MSHItY-cQg0pV7SMDXfComuMz33VVXYAP72Rqqv_lohcCKzpNPmP2hKiz44R1hpWH5LCwrQFTWR8Og2ghN_uTvydAt-wA8J6D/s1600/IMG_4618.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Guests at Retallack enjoying some ridge time between snow-cat assisted laps. Only girls on the mountain were the guides!</td></tr>
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<br />Jasminhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18106615510798115812noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4843724593150614779.post-73436824610452732512014-01-07T22:03:00.000-07:002014-01-07T22:03:37.155-07:00Winter LifeSpain seems quite far away now. My hands haven't touched rock in well over a month but I honestly haven't even missed climbing that much. The days have been full of skiing, ski guiding and dealing with the variety of day to day operational tasks at <a href="http://www.vmt.ca/">Valhalla Mountain Touring</a>. I am so grateful for the fact that my winter job keeps me out in the fresh air, exercising and enjoying the mountains, problem solving and learning new things every day. But I admit, most nights I fall into bed utterly exhausted.<br />
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Evan put together a little video of some highlights of our winter season so far.<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/fdGGmZSbW0E" width="560"></iframe>Jasminhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18106615510798115812noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4843724593150614779.post-63258120675111371912013-12-04T19:07:00.002-07:002013-12-04T19:23:36.998-07:00Spain Part Dos - Terradets After around 3 weeks of climbing in Rodellar, Spain I was finally started to feel it. As long as I could pinch a tufa between my knees, scum a shoulder or hip check something, I had a fighting chance of weaseling my way up some climbs. So I went project shopping. Because that's what you do when you go sport climbing, right? I spent several days sampling a range of climbs at my limit, but they all felt impossible! Maybe not "<i>forever</i>" impossible, but impossible until I stop eating refined sugar and milled grains, lay off the vino and do an hour of core workouts at the end of every climbing day. We decided it was time to move on to another destination. Our time in Spain was almost half over and there were still so many world-class crags on our list!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-rfAmTt7qhyphenhyphenJ9Qc2t-30Ey20zUwip5RFPUadprpkGD-PWDPLTtDgEjaFdgUeTQALZanGFdl8RkWJRF1NyezT9Oel5lmGixfW9k1em9gRiu-BTyRaDXVbmXlqOY6vmxai2VJal5h6BrHUK/s1600/IMG_2173.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-rfAmTt7qhyphenhyphenJ9Qc2t-30Ey20zUwip5RFPUadprpkGD-PWDPLTtDgEjaFdgUeTQALZanGFdl8RkWJRF1NyezT9Oel5lmGixfW9k1em9gRiu-BTyRaDXVbmXlqOY6vmxai2VJal5h6BrHUK/s320/IMG_2173.jpg" width="257" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Most memorable send of the trip - headstand every morning for 6 weeks!</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhR9KHlXgPOGQ_j7Jvp_D9kElP096uKRjB-Kt_WWQhjCBkKwSNQjgBKVaCSDwb4irwjoFQvo_MM7g-Ir5qRb2OUnFiLb7ytes4Bspxh0QZNpcaIBMYRKLXLMIimPUK2MoDPe9USXlEO9uGu/s1600/IMG_2166.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhR9KHlXgPOGQ_j7Jvp_D9kElP096uKRjB-Kt_WWQhjCBkKwSNQjgBKVaCSDwb4irwjoFQvo_MM7g-Ir5qRb2OUnFiLb7ytes4Bspxh0QZNpcaIBMYRKLXLMIimPUK2MoDPe9USXlEO9uGu/s400/IMG_2166.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;"><span style="font-size: small;">Sunset light on the village of Siurana. We didn't climb at this popular area, but enjoyed our scenic drive through. </span></td></tr>
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Our next destination was Terradets, specifically the Bruixes Wall. This is truly a cliff of dreams. Short approach, quiet zone, pretty views, stunning stone and tufas, sweet tufas. We spent almost every day of the rest of our time in Spain at this one crag. Everything I tried at the Bruixes Wall, including the routes I didn't actually do, felt kind of climbable, like if it was my home crag I might eventually climb them all! Indeed, the hard-climbers recommend starting at one end of the cliff and climbing every route until you hit the other end of the cliff. Well I didn't do that. Didn't even try. But I was happy to finish a handful of the fabulous climbs there and could probably rant on about this pocket or that crimp or this pinch, or that polished foothold but really! who wants to read boring stuff like that. Just take it from me, if you like to climb, and you enjoy climbing mid 5.12 to 5.13- you will probably have fun at this crag. And if you aren't having fun, I can only hope that you can be there on the same day as <a href="http://johndunneclimbing.com/">John Dunne</a> and his mates like we were, because if you can listen to those Brits and their self- and partner-depracating banter and not have fun then you should head straight to the clubs in Barcelona, party all night and learn to not take yourself so seriously.<br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhydd2lVpKqiwdSGRr_AgLLkWkLQOJCF496vf6DCBKTLgC3Ik7fxgatGYVSmh4kNIBETx0S9Ds9206LDE6kpljjHUTo0QCH19GDT4oXExulPWtSLVe9HWKvnx7XrhEXS5q5GbT8Fj5A4Qv-/s1600/IMG_2035.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhydd2lVpKqiwdSGRr_AgLLkWkLQOJCF496vf6DCBKTLgC3Ik7fxgatGYVSmh4kNIBETx0S9Ds9206LDE6kpljjHUTo0QCH19GDT4oXExulPWtSLVe9HWKvnx7XrhEXS5q5GbT8Fj5A4Qv-/s400/IMG_2035.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption"><span style="font-size: small;">Climber on El Latido de Medio 8a, Bruixes Wall Terradets</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJ4AARbIAeyw5Zq6WNEiMlHRwr6TBRDSeeuA67IFYD8kQsYUXHbJEvQElmWHTI57nuZxbOuWvE0fnPjIRjBgWjSaevAEshutZ8L_Z_2nhZfFSeHGtz0doGK9xmmb9566mIPtfhBmFNKAzv/s1600/IMG_2200.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="186" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJ4AARbIAeyw5Zq6WNEiMlHRwr6TBRDSeeuA67IFYD8kQsYUXHbJEvQElmWHTI57nuZxbOuWvE0fnPjIRjBgWjSaevAEshutZ8L_Z_2nhZfFSeHGtz0doGK9xmmb9566mIPtfhBmFNKAzv/s400/IMG_2200.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">View of the Bruixes wall from a hiking trail across the valley.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFm9yCmSvqUBsjLd1ExFgSdMuQKhDmUJG-JMRm-SptmwISx-LxsN4WDoOcrYWlGcWFwwZIViHHKm55QpE4Bd35jEe-FOJrO3wiBJMJ7vKaCRm-rgBw_0J0j8IF7lm23E0xSkpsZ1GEnlWt/s1600/IMG_3317.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFm9yCmSvqUBsjLd1ExFgSdMuQKhDmUJG-JMRm-SptmwISx-LxsN4WDoOcrYWlGcWFwwZIViHHKm55QpE4Bd35jEe-FOJrO3wiBJMJ7vKaCRm-rgBw_0J0j8IF7lm23E0xSkpsZ1GEnlWt/s320/IMG_3317.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">This is the climbing at Regina, a shady sector across from the Bruixes wall. A bit more chossy and mostly all 8a and harder, but impressive all the same. </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcNIus75wCCCMeYReTM0POY9nQ32ixzdiU6AxE7iTBHzh0Ap5J9pmbWlLocWjnNI-0yrj8hHK3tKYCnDMQ2tMnolLmcaIeyT6_-Txsz1TIh9qFzzGPCjhzoGP1FKLbNoREw3mvB0YiTxYX/s1600/IMG_2040.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcNIus75wCCCMeYReTM0POY9nQ32ixzdiU6AxE7iTBHzh0Ap5J9pmbWlLocWjnNI-0yrj8hHK3tKYCnDMQ2tMnolLmcaIeyT6_-Txsz1TIh9qFzzGPCjhzoGP1FKLbNoREw3mvB0YiTxYX/s400/IMG_2040.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">FYI The slabs shown here are for sunbathing, not for climbing.</span></td></tr>
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The worst moment of the trip for me was when I was all gung-ho on one of the routes I did called Energia Positiva. I was having trouble with one of the clips so decided to clip it from above, when it was at my knee. Unfortunately on my last attempt of the day I was really tired but needed to do one more lap to clean my draws before taking a few days off to spend a city weekend in Barcelona. When I was above the draw but not yet clipped my foot slipped and I fell sideways, somehow got my body wrapped in the rope and got slammed into the wall back first. I let out a pretty good F%*&!!! when I hit. When I lowered to the ground I was physically tender but psychologically mortified. I wanted to disappear. It was a busy day at the cliff, everyone was looking at me wondering if I was going to live or if I had a broken neck but meanwhile it was just a few scrapes, bruises and a rope-burned love handle. That's the last time I try to emulate those famous climbers in the movies who skip bolt after bolt while enveloped in the focussed fearlessness of their redpoint. After a rest day the route went down with ease, probably because I was too terrified to let go.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqcj5f7Guimj8jQc6D_PBdmVkqLoekT7ABgNacpbGNj7BrYypxpPJyAMjRORZKgoL3SJOW3TkJqzUlatJ6hsfkzXPvBXcBedhcVC6CgDTaagCSrL4QvQMcg8lOPoep1AiEDVNqA61kqEel/s1600/IMG_2203.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqcj5f7Guimj8jQc6D_PBdmVkqLoekT7ABgNacpbGNj7BrYypxpPJyAMjRORZKgoL3SJOW3TkJqzUlatJ6hsfkzXPvBXcBedhcVC6CgDTaagCSrL4QvQMcg8lOPoep1AiEDVNqA61kqEel/s400/IMG_2203.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">What I would do if I stuck to what comes naturally - hiking</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyGsvb235qCW7MoJ53GPasONrpOGaBaBgvavG8zSPPN7KvVDYmzuj7obV76NikXXSY5rCgMzn6LQpJdRbUnQ_dOsK9UWxKpYIbq9kHv7Z4oaE-WpfHCtk_j8muzl3PuZZ9Kb8fg-xpZ1N3/s1600/IMG_2154.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyGsvb235qCW7MoJ53GPasONrpOGaBaBgvavG8zSPPN7KvVDYmzuj7obV76NikXXSY5rCgMzn6LQpJdRbUnQ_dOsK9UWxKpYIbq9kHv7Z4oaE-WpfHCtk_j8muzl3PuZZ9Kb8fg-xpZ1N3/s400/IMG_2154.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption"><span style="font-size: small;">Grapes: functional AND beautiful</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9c9h_9Lk-UN4X8Qbbun6rQDHcqdD44JBDmD-wjjcEeoTjZhS_bXHxeDgvvcQINr-C2WTtFplM2KDk4xzKgYOlqOKAaygrSjeftGorakg4YT3pSAjjG2Duf2A0_oCkW2SYCieMZnNjf9I3/s1600/IMG_3240.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9c9h_9Lk-UN4X8Qbbun6rQDHcqdD44JBDmD-wjjcEeoTjZhS_bXHxeDgvvcQINr-C2WTtFplM2KDk4xzKgYOlqOKAaygrSjeftGorakg4YT3pSAjjG2Duf2A0_oCkW2SYCieMZnNjf9I3/s320/IMG_3240.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption"><span style="font-size: small;">Evan with the local boys in post-climbing bliss watching some football and swilling some brew</span></td></tr>
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We also visited two other crags - Tres Ponts and Collegats, both within 45 minutes of Terradets and definitely worth a visit. Both areas had some really nice climbs, were river-side and breezy on warm days, and had mellow approaches (although to get to the best wall at Collegats you have to cross a cable tyrolean - either bring your own pulley, or sacrifice a couple of lockers to extreme abrasion). Both crags had a combination of steeper routes and more vertical, techie but really high quality climbs. Collegats had a 45m 7a+ and a 35m 7b that were both really really good. Reminded me of Pet Wall movement, but on grippy, edgy limestone.<br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFhwfw6XPPT7BJZjHzej5iIS3Qfp4S1fvAqXUA865OmHFXXpzOw3XYu0oRZViGcychRbdVB5NYKMEyNzKQCbZ4b839iFRjvFhHndNh-PaY3oUhEkSxEzvSBkiF9p2kpn4Ck_-L3GgIVyFV/s1600/IMG_2239.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFhwfw6XPPT7BJZjHzej5iIS3Qfp4S1fvAqXUA865OmHFXXpzOw3XYu0oRZViGcychRbdVB5NYKMEyNzKQCbZ4b839iFRjvFhHndNh-PaY3oUhEkSxEzvSBkiF9p2kpn4Ck_-L3GgIVyFV/s400/IMG_2239.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption"><span style="font-size: small;">Evan on the tyrolean to Collegats</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1FN_wVEG506yLMDtvvJypVYmkeBsytLZwbXHIiYlUutkw5n9z3UEW6B3KnKubTJu92KC0lQwZeVYc2TVxgW0qrUomX2f6YUp8KikgWczK3XTNQ6xsSizzzZX-JNoIY0ofqgHG6Bq7CiAF/s1600/IMG_2255.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1FN_wVEG506yLMDtvvJypVYmkeBsytLZwbXHIiYlUutkw5n9z3UEW6B3KnKubTJu92KC0lQwZeVYc2TVxgW0qrUomX2f6YUp8KikgWczK3XTNQ6xsSizzzZX-JNoIY0ofqgHG6Bq7CiAF/s400/IMG_2255.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption"><span style="font-size: small;">Climber at Collegats</span></td></tr>
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In case any of you are using this post as travel beta, I will give you the particulars of what we sorted out here:<br />
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<b>ACCOMMODATION</b><br />
We divided our time in the Terradets area between 3 places, all near Tremp.<br />
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<a href="http://www.lleidarural.info/Fitxa.asp?rutacomarca=pallars_jussa&IdCasa=155">Cal Morralet</a> was a big guest house run by a lovely woman named Ana. There are around 6 private rooms with ensuite bathrooms, and a big shared living room/kitchen. There are also several self-contained suites. We stayed in one of the suites in the basement and it was comfortable, clean and totally adequate with good internet. The location was great, only a few minutes from the grocery store in Tremp, and around 10 minutes to the Bruixes at Terradets. The only drawback was that the landscape right around the house and the house itself weren't very scenic, and when the house was full of people it was pretty noisy in our downstairs suite. A great deal at 35 euros per night for the suite. This and similar options can be found on the website <a href="http://www.lleidarural.info/">http://www.lleidarural.info</a>.<br />
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We stayed at <a href="http://www.hotelterradets.com/en/">Hotel Terradets</a> for just one night when we were between places. It offers nice, simple hotel rooms and rates include a decadent breakfast buffet, but there are no cooking facilities in the room, so you have to cook on your deck or eat in the cafeteria or restaurant, or drive 15 minutes into Tremp to eat. It is within a few km of the Bruixes wall at Terradets. A great option for a shorter trip, or if you just want something really simple and close to the climbing. We paid around 50 euros for the night, but I think if you stay longer there is a discount.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdqmPtk4pJz-wuVpIR701zOC6wmkgeTIb7sbAtDDxcDAWLvXxfNoy148laKBVOlRd19aXsMdwsT_AkexwBgsRQ1RdBLt5D0VYhYahou5rYimO282LflQKYoUHMeQRzx1We7WIgeIEu1McR/s1600/IMG_2042.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdqmPtk4pJz-wuVpIR701zOC6wmkgeTIb7sbAtDDxcDAWLvXxfNoy148laKBVOlRd19aXsMdwsT_AkexwBgsRQ1RdBLt5D0VYhYahou5rYimO282LflQKYoUHMeQRzx1We7WIgeIEu1McR/s320/IMG_2042.jpg" width="262" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Sunrise view from our room at Hotel Terradets</span></td></tr>
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We finished off our trip with two weeks in the unbelievable tranquil settlement of Figuerola de Meia, where we rented an apartment we found advertised on the website <a href="http://climbinpeace.com/">climbinpeace.com</a>. The website is run by a nice local climber named Cristian, who serves as a liaison between climbers looking for places to stay and Spaniards who have places to rent. Our apartment and the stone building that housed it seemed very new, but the surrounding stone buildings were literally crumbling ruins on a plateau covered with small fields with views to orange limestone escarpments and the snowy Pyrenees far beyond. Spectacular and silent. The only drawback was it was far from everything... 30 minutes to groceries and around 20 minutes drive to the Bruixes wall.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRC5Hgr-5AjJUK9oaOtyJMCTQXjP2rzqFrGMLMi-4JNEll8S7vxcaU67qM2eoWyTLRLOT7iYjfyI0Cw8rbDxhyphenhyphennbB4Hx49-TmjHj7jnzNfDGjtH6b27-itpMoHdOAQ76y8Ggqgji-HWx55/s1600/IMG_2178.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRC5Hgr-5AjJUK9oaOtyJMCTQXjP2rzqFrGMLMi-4JNEll8S7vxcaU67qM2eoWyTLRLOT7iYjfyI0Cw8rbDxhyphenhyphennbB4Hx49-TmjHj7jnzNfDGjtH6b27-itpMoHdOAQ76y8Ggqgji-HWx55/s400/IMG_2178.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Tucked in behind these dilapidated building is our cute little apartment</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3cYltCXNoK-iOfBpVPmTsG-EUCAIozQGX5ClGoDja142k1k0l8qJ-sT3Iii6wEjvdrW1wZbkDjK1YMe6ST-vPKyd5AvabeWbMbnyGGMaLlNb2Y_TwntYXydsBkUSsczPyMP9_0loGCJNu/s1600/IMG_2212.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="font-size: 13px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3cYltCXNoK-iOfBpVPmTsG-EUCAIozQGX5ClGoDja142k1k0l8qJ-sT3Iii6wEjvdrW1wZbkDjK1YMe6ST-vPKyd5AvabeWbMbnyGGMaLlNb2Y_TwntYXydsBkUSsczPyMP9_0loGCJNu/s400/IMG_2212.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">The view from our deck at Figuerola de Meia</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUc5OpBw8Io486IoNTa7-1tFGnMP1xz99sIo4q18FkHCOsviRsfUNfmez4aEhzGB7Nhy0oic7eCOrgwAMBeOfmAbHGhPRo9E7vA7FbdozS9vNETxDsf3tSlYqhoPaluGqPKOSPE6ZN1oc9/s1600/IMG_3312.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUc5OpBw8Io486IoNTa7-1tFGnMP1xz99sIo4q18FkHCOsviRsfUNfmez4aEhzGB7Nhy0oic7eCOrgwAMBeOfmAbHGhPRo9E7vA7FbdozS9vNETxDsf3tSlYqhoPaluGqPKOSPE6ZN1oc9/s400/IMG_3312.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption"><span style="font-size: small;">Evening light on Figuerola de Meia</span></td></tr>
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<b>FOOD</b><br />
We bought most of our groceries from the supermarket in Tremp. We also found lots of great smaller stores, butchers and bakeries and even a little natural food store in the walking area of Tremp. The tough part with the smaller stores is navigating their schedule. Everything is closed on Sunday and most smaller places are closed in the middle of the day. We really didn't eat out at all - nothing seemed both enticing AND vegetarian.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFUSuIBQ72fISGkuhysoYKmabykhaTzhYe7tWRHolA4ql9t7L5Bs3MA7LZgVPpbUUf1ZUiGHLre6LIrFjOXa9Zp9nmn0RtN5g9GHPKx-_51cESVJgPV5zqiCA6M3fKAu6-FnFvbUw_7Mto/s1600/IMG_3352.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFUSuIBQ72fISGkuhysoYKmabykhaTzhYe7tWRHolA4ql9t7L5Bs3MA7LZgVPpbUUf1ZUiGHLre6LIrFjOXa9Zp9nmn0RtN5g9GHPKx-_51cESVJgPV5zqiCA6M3fKAu6-FnFvbUw_7Mto/s400/IMG_3352.jpg" width="298" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">The bakery in Camarasa was pretty delicious. This pastry had custard and chocolate chips on it, and as you can see, did not make it to the crag or even out of the parking lot. </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihFpKgtmnX8qa9yFaIS3NZ-3YlmKCnk1sg7EFahmU4ug10eCNtX2-trLx-GJ8ZAv3RtFnsNW6jxeKfVqjNQCUwC4gaZd7Qh4o_h1YUDUgI8GwfeMwL7CDjyedhcqC2AbXxYRzrDSYjo_tW/s1600/IMG_2172.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihFpKgtmnX8qa9yFaIS3NZ-3YlmKCnk1sg7EFahmU4ug10eCNtX2-trLx-GJ8ZAv3RtFnsNW6jxeKfVqjNQCUwC4gaZd7Qh4o_h1YUDUgI8GwfeMwL7CDjyedhcqC2AbXxYRzrDSYjo_tW/s400/IMG_2172.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption"><span style="font-size: small;">Cocktail hour at the refugio in Siurana looks like this. </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOdlqBw_uFWucPy_lhX7gfkW-gMoUnBV5xH4z4qz6pkTTcwFLgOjJ6Etjy2FpA-kyj0ms2fZUI7QDovslPkJB8GyG9WsW8Zc7eTXHNNxIM_ll4mfffujWWHT4ov7TVcoHEXkEQYvAXB7rS/s1600/IMG_2204.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOdlqBw_uFWucPy_lhX7gfkW-gMoUnBV5xH4z4qz6pkTTcwFLgOjJ6Etjy2FpA-kyj0ms2fZUI7QDovslPkJB8GyG9WsW8Zc7eTXHNNxIM_ll4mfffujWWHT4ov7TVcoHEXkEQYvAXB7rS/s400/IMG_2204.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption"><span style="font-size: small;">I grew up with health-food-nut parents, but even I didn't get orange juice or yogurt with carrot sauce for dessert! </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhH7x214FJii9lyD7ccsXWmkXo4OJh4-_gRTQ-unOp6LEvt9LYnGljDXnDaAvB0Bi-g4YVkf0sz8NJsC5oJqhGZRvbcnyiqetMf6K8mbjrXH6v7AVuTXnaQSPyK7LDFS00Hob9auol8Fqu3/s1600/IMG_2197.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhH7x214FJii9lyD7ccsXWmkXo4OJh4-_gRTQ-unOp6LEvt9LYnGljDXnDaAvB0Bi-g4YVkf0sz8NJsC5oJqhGZRvbcnyiqetMf6K8mbjrXH6v7AVuTXnaQSPyK7LDFS00Hob9auol8Fqu3/s400/IMG_2197.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption"><span style="font-size: small;">We could pick pomegranates right outside of our door!</span></td></tr>
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<b>REST DAY ADVENTURES</b><br />
Most of my rest days are spent on a hike or a run, and my time in Terradets was no different. Two standouts were the <a href="http://www.lleidatur.com/Tourism/Visit/The-Mont-rebei-gorge/177.aspx">Mont-rebei Gorge</a> and the <a href="http://www20.gencat.cat/portal/site/parcsnaturals/menuitem.93512201aa2411c0e6789a10b0c0e1a0/?vgnextoid=beaf3b3c19532210VgnVCM1000008d0c1e0aRCRD&vgnextchannel=beaf3b3c19532210VgnVCM1000008d0c1e0aRCRD&vgnextfmt=default">Aiguestortes National Park</a> in the Pyrenees.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitX1T59LMlC9yR8DdsZMqaUDTnMJxLofj8gtieVGQ3WmYz6rdw5MRHF6DoDXI5_y4Ege5llwmJXiPwk4BXS61sXWVfiLrtxpqnHI_CIcIOOEG74ffWGP1Dh73iZ1jdW06By_yLfhNvxSH-/s1600/IMG_1936.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitX1T59LMlC9yR8DdsZMqaUDTnMJxLofj8gtieVGQ3WmYz6rdw5MRHF6DoDXI5_y4Ege5llwmJXiPwk4BXS61sXWVfiLrtxpqnHI_CIcIOOEG74ffWGP1Dh73iZ1jdW06By_yLfhNvxSH-/s400/IMG_1936.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Mont-Rebei Gorge </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBBjIS9ZROPKhZVyaDWJRChXCrKcnGStYPEwrLBPc5Ml6UsJ-drPT3x3MlKm9I6DkuPiKtBxeONsMUSMjoHqJKfhjQmLi_OwqoKzH8_i-Kn0A5FY8Bp9TrKWaV0NblPC9p2XeU9jJd1TVB/s1600/IMG_1958.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBBjIS9ZROPKhZVyaDWJRChXCrKcnGStYPEwrLBPc5Ml6UsJ-drPT3x3MlKm9I6DkuPiKtBxeONsMUSMjoHqJKfhjQmLi_OwqoKzH8_i-Kn0A5FY8Bp9TrKWaV0NblPC9p2XeU9jJd1TVB/s400/IMG_1958.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption"><span style="font-size: small;">Amazing hike in the Mont-Rebei Gorge</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU26P4QcCsbk2WlEdtN3JdzV1YjbTX1Ez81v6ylW4sxWsC5UVvb8NagYXI0POMii5YxYWt9nv2kQ4-qsCkI2-DdHXRjgz_iOPwOQFExVZbIrFItQOntszJatNFEtzC_qNgAHIplElrhIcU/s1600/IMG_1941.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU26P4QcCsbk2WlEdtN3JdzV1YjbTX1Ez81v6ylW4sxWsC5UVvb8NagYXI0POMii5YxYWt9nv2kQ4-qsCkI2-DdHXRjgz_iOPwOQFExVZbIrFItQOntszJatNFEtzC_qNgAHIplElrhIcU/s400/IMG_1941.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Mont-Rebei Gorge</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEqXvdLWwEgzHRYQEh_VupBlcOxnnvP91IRa7iK50zoe06bfC64fZFEgVJx-eUE0-H1keOZzvWSfykSwZtnM08q4ZXhwNd58egJmBzFL4gGaJ6cFFALNaDkiCfCRL_jQ0ZOoXgTuF3LwkV/s1600/IMG_1947.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEqXvdLWwEgzHRYQEh_VupBlcOxnnvP91IRa7iK50zoe06bfC64fZFEgVJx-eUE0-H1keOZzvWSfykSwZtnM08q4ZXhwNd58egJmBzFL4gGaJ6cFFALNaDkiCfCRL_jQ0ZOoXgTuF3LwkV/s400/IMG_1947.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">That is really the trail - Mont-Rebei Gorge</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7c4vCgnYhhL7LSC5eeMFRt7ydWgE0EXJ76Pu5yGTjwcGz5DgxvzaUz0G_AhMdA6i1XraJ51sPvLfQ-ZDfHnjZUoQGyMOu50dkX8bOJBTBJKoOTxqmzaRtwy2Ber92f_juGoIuxN-fEYBo/s1600/IMG_1953.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7c4vCgnYhhL7LSC5eeMFRt7ydWgE0EXJ76Pu5yGTjwcGz5DgxvzaUz0G_AhMdA6i1XraJ51sPvLfQ-ZDfHnjZUoQGyMOu50dkX8bOJBTBJKoOTxqmzaRtwy2Ber92f_juGoIuxN-fEYBo/s400/IMG_1953.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Crazy trail close-up</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcpnzI1qy1c6p1nshb3vzx5YC0-0iPHC4P_NdtDFe8nBe6kLTwk2b7HP6mvCjo0os43CtA8Ev41fuAn44_21cZJvPhasknRBVPMAtDXdHTNEk2ZwyYtjaAu44uXIjaFLRdN2Mo5dTgMPHQ/s1600/IMG_2008.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="262" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcpnzI1qy1c6p1nshb3vzx5YC0-0iPHC4P_NdtDFe8nBe6kLTwk2b7HP6mvCjo0os43CtA8Ev41fuAn44_21cZJvPhasknRBVPMAtDXdHTNEk2ZwyYtjaAu44uXIjaFLRdN2Mo5dTgMPHQ/s400/IMG_2008.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Nice to be back in the granite, but the freezing wind not so much - hiking in the Pyrenees</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiW6Xf4ZMo3Ro-cPMRfuDdX3sdyPhiQIE0kLf3vLEFna_uXnkrpz0fbw4AJ5DPymaMnOUFDA0WmNnIuw5S82Cya5bPcjWiZfTdbjcr_UrZMftUbc0jABnXRblJPwv-fJbqbIZ6g2KgW9AeG/s1600/IMG_2018.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="201" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiW6Xf4ZMo3Ro-cPMRfuDdX3sdyPhiQIE0kLf3vLEFna_uXnkrpz0fbw4AJ5DPymaMnOUFDA0WmNnIuw5S82Cya5bPcjWiZfTdbjcr_UrZMftUbc0jABnXRblJPwv-fJbqbIZ6g2KgW9AeG/s400/IMG_2018.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Evan chilling in the Aiguestortes National Park</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgf5xQNA2H00nQfn5m23YzpnTCW7aXSrLgDDOLnTbAGixMgBvK19-M78dbaplKxXrUO4mBsNwdyANeHLGnj9XdAaPJc7c5FYcFRZLVi097VrGlY6KHTcrVgUoHMSe8POkSLcDPq1IamXAeg/s1600/IMG_2021.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgf5xQNA2H00nQfn5m23YzpnTCW7aXSrLgDDOLnTbAGixMgBvK19-M78dbaplKxXrUO4mBsNwdyANeHLGnj9XdAaPJc7c5FYcFRZLVi097VrGlY6KHTcrVgUoHMSe8POkSLcDPq1IamXAeg/s400/IMG_2021.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Refugio in the Aiguestortes National Park</span></td></tr>
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When we finally hit that point in the trip that we needed a little more than one rest day, we took off for a weekend in Barcelona and treated ourselves to a hotel room and checking out the famous Barca Football team play in their home stadium. Barcelona is only around 2 hours from Tremp.<br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4RBIQpY51T3TuOH9-6iYru233mSuJCeKUNo5ipsi0Lx_CZmuVn4E0UtMQi-uZjq8HtJVMFSc_YfmiSy2wUbblj6wrTHxHqRS6x0a1rLkWS-ogu4G7m7dCtVqD8isQ6LlTti_qv_s5COSg/s1600/IMG_2130.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4RBIQpY51T3TuOH9-6iYru233mSuJCeKUNo5ipsi0Lx_CZmuVn4E0UtMQi-uZjq8HtJVMFSc_YfmiSy2wUbblj6wrTHxHqRS6x0a1rLkWS-ogu4G7m7dCtVqD8isQ6LlTti_qv_s5COSg/s400/IMG_2130.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption"><span style="font-size: small;">Cool church in the gothic quarter in Barcelona. </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbhpFj2CLryAZ7vxUhmVvIQMqhqqx4WeSWlfkbosD0YsmicLU8j-ZvmflIXmDpM6vrab2Q9a3nG6o5wDQDbTBPdEhWSe0KO_ICUryx1wCKOtIFR-M7Gj9g4yfPphgJnIHw6Rve_4Ea0_r5/s1600/IMG_2063.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbhpFj2CLryAZ7vxUhmVvIQMqhqqx4WeSWlfkbosD0YsmicLU8j-ZvmflIXmDpM6vrab2Q9a3nG6o5wDQDbTBPdEhWSe0KO_ICUryx1wCKOtIFR-M7Gj9g4yfPphgJnIHw6Rve_4Ea0_r5/s400/IMG_2063.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Barca! </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiW9w8bOwRZnkgNEKipkcjmwEJEsOepCRUZg8AooysdFyk6jVigg9FiLE9WYrEdIg2oxM47a8SsxpCKudAm2_CALgxzwNzv6NM1Y_ch1bjdn2aLU6sMAcP_GpNmkNGpytCYDBha0T30SN99/s1600/IMG_2135.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiW9w8bOwRZnkgNEKipkcjmwEJEsOepCRUZg8AooysdFyk6jVigg9FiLE9WYrEdIg2oxM47a8SsxpCKudAm2_CALgxzwNzv6NM1Y_ch1bjdn2aLU6sMAcP_GpNmkNGpytCYDBha0T30SN99/s400/IMG_2135.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">This Barcelona lady would probably rust in Squamish. </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLssMDMomvM05gtmyGczFAaMSvN7DXJPZeTcCVlaJWJ0Mn5qtPXZo6PB_sY0WMco7dGqSbD4ZjUZoUTq1RatyKv2LeLQjtGsFDRDDUl6TPRh8f4X_Fh9hoCi5iVPisn9Q7YAG1W0Uh4uTa/s1600/IMG_3303.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLssMDMomvM05gtmyGczFAaMSvN7DXJPZeTcCVlaJWJ0Mn5qtPXZo6PB_sY0WMco7dGqSbD4ZjUZoUTq1RatyKv2LeLQjtGsFDRDDUl6TPRh8f4X_Fh9hoCi5iVPisn9Q7YAG1W0Uh4uTa/s400/IMG_3303.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">This crumbling, abandoned settlement was a 5 km run on a gravel road from our apartment at Figuerola de Meia. </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPd_HEAH5AJa7BToy3WBgqTj9fCI-PRyj2t3crgY1YEKzTKByfuopd9WFuVD2NDNZs7gQuuUuZSjnwQZYTOS6ZQYsDYMgBOzMPeUpcSgy52HneOqPQIMr3x8CoRFu16sVUn41S6ATZCAql/s1600/IMG_2196.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="333" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPd_HEAH5AJa7BToy3WBgqTj9fCI-PRyj2t3crgY1YEKzTKByfuopd9WFuVD2NDNZs7gQuuUuZSjnwQZYTOS6ZQYsDYMgBOzMPeUpcSgy52HneOqPQIMr3x8CoRFu16sVUn41S6ATZCAql/s400/IMG_2196.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption"><span style="font-size: small;">Beauty everywhere. </span></td></tr>
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Well that's all she wrote about 6 weeks in Spain. It was a really wonderful trip. High enjoyment to stress ratio. Best tufas ever. I would go back and recommend it to others for sure. Glad I squeaked in this last post because my ski boots are giving me that look.<br />
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Jasminhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18106615510798115812noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4843724593150614779.post-35258991165186728562013-11-05T08:32:00.001-07:002013-11-05T08:33:53.653-07:00Rodellar - beta for softies<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Someone once told me Rodellar only really gets good in the 8s (that's french 8s (YDS translation = 5.13b and up), not 5.8s. For this reason I was obviously pretty intimidated to head there at the start of a fall trip after a summer spent mostly alpine climbing, guiding and generally not climbing hard or feeling particularly strong. I had also heard that the weather can be fickle in the fall, so it was with some hesitation that I committed to spending the first 10 days of our Spain trip there. Due to perfect weather, amazing climbing and tranquilo surroundings, 10 days turned into almost 3 weeks - so I guess I liked it!</div>
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I have noticed that a few people have found my blog useful for planning their own adventures, so I will include a few details that made our stay in Rodellar awesome. For reference, we were there from Oct 4-22. </div>
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<b>Accommodation:</b> We stayed at the <a href="http://www.vallederodellar.com/who-we-are">Valle de Rodellar </a> </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEij0VI-a0UMMwzQ8TD-LbE2hSM0-xeFHgts5pABw1_4bVO1ReRtLQFahNPqgVrEySQ0lDPweENfKjx-FAyBJfI_kHL0Sxd5Sggy30a2Lr65QgTVAW8fJtDZ0EBmvTsaI-LJupGTuLfmhcYG/s1600/IMG_3184.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEij0VI-a0UMMwzQ8TD-LbE2hSM0-xeFHgts5pABw1_4bVO1ReRtLQFahNPqgVrEySQ0lDPweENfKjx-FAyBJfI_kHL0Sxd5Sggy30a2Lr65QgTVAW8fJtDZ0EBmvTsaI-LJupGTuLfmhcYG/s320/IMG_3184.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The apartments at Valle de Rodellar</td></tr>
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These little self-contained units are a 10 minute walk from the crags. They are comfy, clean and have enough indoor space for stretching, chilling out and all have some outdoor seating for swilling Ambar or some local Somontano vino and watching the sun set. The best units are #7-10 (you don't have anyone above you). The kitchens are simple 2 burner stoves, no oven, a small fridge and have everything you need to prepare basic meals. You can pay a bit more to have sheets and towels, or just bring your own. There is wifi but it usually doesn't work in the rooms and is pretty maddeningly slow most of the time. The best program was to get on it in morning at the coffee shop/bar area where there are tables for guests to chill out. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiam0MRY8UbbpHJM52xgG6Xsm-eM3T9m2-34oJg6u3yqggm9WMmHCbi5ZxTP_B6Qt5hzB3sfnxC75fUweeQoubfnkqhDBE2Wk7RpRoF-ogXsodf_YiHh37J9G0fFsZmpqL9RBfun7MzEKv/s1600/IMG_1786.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiam0MRY8UbbpHJM52xgG6Xsm-eM3T9m2-34oJg6u3yqggm9WMmHCbi5ZxTP_B6Qt5hzB3sfnxC75fUweeQoubfnkqhDBE2Wk7RpRoF-ogXsodf_YiHh37J9G0fFsZmpqL9RBfun7MzEKv/s320/IMG_1786.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sorting gear in the bedroom. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkRmdKe_-5RavP8_eQsXs8iVJuqEuuzCtywvy1iRcQ8ZJwd5nBEQ_SOu9_ltukxKufFlHC88dSh84ZhkjXBTW_hUAXBAYyNDkL7rxp5ksZr_FHekZahq1UaojXFJh5-w9_KUEI5nvRBV7N/s1600/IMG_1798.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkRmdKe_-5RavP8_eQsXs8iVJuqEuuzCtywvy1iRcQ8ZJwd5nBEQ_SOu9_ltukxKufFlHC88dSh84ZhkjXBTW_hUAXBAYyNDkL7rxp5ksZr_FHekZahq1UaojXFJh5-w9_KUEI5nvRBV7N/s320/IMG_1798.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Living room/kitchen</td></tr>
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<b>Food:</b> <span style="text-align: left;">There is a small market for food, beer, wine in the hotel lobby area as well, with good fresh bread and pastries every morning. The market was adequate for basics and treats like awesome local cheese but there was a wider range of produce and generally cheaper prices in several large supermarkets in Barbastro, a 45 minute winding drive from Rodellar. </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXl4RHndQ1Fx11xuA-WAvYDrUJaRg8DKoAXksS8gv-0W0-qIFr6CxwJ5Xqm7Kgq-h0-RXrusaPXgGEbux8NT5vUE0hFwW8gFHEPmZrGzzExRBZlaYqTHnoYjrGGmncsIuMMkT2IttibMht/s1600/IMG_3178.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXl4RHndQ1Fx11xuA-WAvYDrUJaRg8DKoAXksS8gv-0W0-qIFr6CxwJ5Xqm7Kgq-h0-RXrusaPXgGEbux8NT5vUE0hFwW8gFHEPmZrGzzExRBZlaYqTHnoYjrGGmncsIuMMkT2IttibMht/s320/IMG_3178.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The little market at the hotel. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyRwgp8FdghFylhSVXh5xuwg3YNMRc8IeBvsa1DQj-4hMuvTaczNCY97tmLjMlkjOabxgyqKs6zuDb6SnXP0oYfV2T-wBU2TA6x0FCzGqoYa7wtTPyfO__-HKLVYsA5dnyXDntc35CBRFH/s1600/IMG_1846.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyRwgp8FdghFylhSVXh5xuwg3YNMRc8IeBvsa1DQj-4hMuvTaczNCY97tmLjMlkjOabxgyqKs6zuDb6SnXP0oYfV2T-wBU2TA6x0FCzGqoYa7wtTPyfO__-HKLVYsA5dnyXDntc35CBRFH/s320/IMG_1846.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This was the awesome local goat cheese which came in varieties that ranged from soft brie-like to cheddary to really hard and sharp.</td></tr>
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One of my favourite rural travel pastimes is foraging for free food. I think of it as classy dumpster diving in nature. In Rodellar there were ripe figs, walnuts, grapes, blackberries and rosemary, and when I went for a trail run high above town I found thyme. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkx495qJjQPCmM04NIKJkfr9pwv-SVB-2AUwbNT9t0rcutUpKz66oIkZZssVaVhFe-7vDADIE_hi31c4fyPfq0IFYs2rBlpSuezLh8iH3_VmJrEy1VT_bFWmC6TdMdxs6N_zgUvuMNDnmM/s1600/IMG_1802.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkx495qJjQPCmM04NIKJkfr9pwv-SVB-2AUwbNT9t0rcutUpKz66oIkZZssVaVhFe-7vDADIE_hi31c4fyPfq0IFYs2rBlpSuezLh8iH3_VmJrEy1VT_bFWmC6TdMdxs6N_zgUvuMNDnmM/s320/IMG_1802.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fresh, foraged, free!</td></tr>
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<span style="text-align: center;">I couldn't figure out the identity of </span><span style="text-align: center;">these tempting bright red soft fruit growing on small trees beside the road into Rodellar. I took a photo and passed it around. Finally the woman running the refugio Kalandraka in Rodellar identified it as </span><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arbutus" style="text-align: center;">arbutus/madrona</a><span style="text-align: center;"> (AKA strawberry tree!). They are edible but fairly tasteless and are used to make liqueur in Madrid and Portugal.</span><br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0wc8da4SAdGJNFZbmPsg7NFDqpemVadcFoBuI-3aiqKNq9Ro5JsHUv17fo9tp2QOxIfiNR5c6zeitehiTE3pkwNGITGcnZV50vb84b8qjaYRvJR2_gNmyufO2RNBHUOuRQFK66yagGtf7/s1600/IMG_1840.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0wc8da4SAdGJNFZbmPsg7NFDqpemVadcFoBuI-3aiqKNq9Ro5JsHUv17fo9tp2QOxIfiNR5c6zeitehiTE3pkwNGITGcnZV50vb84b8qjaYRvJR2_gNmyufO2RNBHUOuRQFK66yagGtf7/s320/IMG_1840.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Madrona fruit.</td></tr>
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We don't eat out that much when we travel in Europe, partially because I like to cook, partially to save money, and partially because Evan doesn't eat meat or fish so there often aren't many great options for him at restaurants. We had two meals that were tasty and good value at the <a href="http://www.refugio-kalandraka.es/Kalandraka-Bar.html">Refugio Kalandraka</a>. It's also a fun place to go for drinks, play pool and meet climbers from all over the world. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Drinking and eating with a fabulous crew of new friends at Kalandraka</td></tr>
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<b>Climbing</b>: Much to my relief, the climbing is not just great in the 8s at Rodellar. I climbed some amazing 6s and 7s, and was surprised how many bolted even easier routes there were in the guidebook. I think most climbers who sport climb upper 5.10 or higher could come to Rodellar and have fun. The routes were well bolted and it was not very far between crags. Although we frequented crags with mostly gently to wildly overhanging routes, there is definitely some sharp, vertical techie stuff if you look for it. The one tough thing was finding shady warm-ups. Most days we warmed up at El Camino, a crag on the west-facing side of the valley. The warm-ups here are really polished and range from awesome to kick-your-ass desperate. The warm-ups at the Dolphin area are nicer but are also sunny in the morning. In the afternoon, the east facing side of the canyon goes into the shade and the mega crags like the Gran Boveda, Las Ventanas and Aquest Any Si go into the shade. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgi-RdQfdW2GgsLk5JrCF0_IZ07Tm10uUEss7rQ4PK3WZAV0m1o2QsG2zQG8Gmg3X2dKOVdwSOigeiE3v8R2AOcbWtrdAVPIhWyZVxUHAzaZc2eqxSrzlGd6Q-LoaYZt_c1AZ_PsOMjNsN_/s1600/IMG_1782.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgi-RdQfdW2GgsLk5JrCF0_IZ07Tm10uUEss7rQ4PK3WZAV0m1o2QsG2zQG8Gmg3X2dKOVdwSOigeiE3v8R2AOcbWtrdAVPIhWyZVxUHAzaZc2eqxSrzlGd6Q-LoaYZt_c1AZ_PsOMjNsN_/s320/IMG_1782.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our go-to warm-up crag, El Camino. The routes were shorter than most of the others we climbed at Rodellar, but they certainly provided a pump!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtUZz-kyIyobFr2TbE7Zlagqc0sFKE2Mget9z0fBsDlQG609geqNGT4zwb3Xx4tS9Rz8U6LW4A92gTMbeVyXDJ1Pz79myzkPT0x_FrheldcAfOocqfyyJRUpLsZHMDILKzGboT5jl1V9f-/s1600/IMG_1791.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtUZz-kyIyobFr2TbE7Zlagqc0sFKE2Mget9z0fBsDlQG609geqNGT4zwb3Xx4tS9Rz8U6LW4A92gTMbeVyXDJ1Pz79myzkPT0x_FrheldcAfOocqfyyJRUpLsZHMDILKzGboT5jl1V9f-/s320/IMG_1791.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Evan at the base of the Delphin, an amazing arch feature with a mega concentration of routes on and near it. </td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9Je4fYTr1UlbUWyKt24GXSNSTK-cpgaR4TizjPEhHnZh5txdBPoK4MO56zZA8TbhDUNHh26aX17j8RWoRW3hmwyHdw0waAJy6J2UuHvX3drCgbwuGQqGm29qosv2ftYYIC9KvuFsq-odE/s1600/IMG_1825.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9Je4fYTr1UlbUWyKt24GXSNSTK-cpgaR4TizjPEhHnZh5txdBPoK4MO56zZA8TbhDUNHh26aX17j8RWoRW3hmwyHdw0waAJy6J2UuHvX3drCgbwuGQqGm29qosv2ftYYIC9KvuFsq-odE/s320/IMG_1825.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Climber on El Delphin (7c+)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFqPMWMCGEcsAlsiHBHq3JxD8Dsrq1waAy-D1VfxcDU0tudt8S3cQptQcOs1hMksfyCWwHbgOswwy4kcrVp6GebobSz377kmMjJDyQLIHwtTwOKjAXibTMJJkDfa5mz7S-OTScso-kdFmY/s1600/IMG_1805.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="font-size: 13px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFqPMWMCGEcsAlsiHBHq3JxD8Dsrq1waAy-D1VfxcDU0tudt8S3cQptQcOs1hMksfyCWwHbgOswwy4kcrVp6GebobSz377kmMjJDyQLIHwtTwOKjAXibTMJJkDfa5mz7S-OTScso-kdFmY/s320/IMG_1805.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Gran Boveda - tons of amazing 30-40m routes in the upper 7s and 8s</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhyphenhyphenZh1R_ZtULoNQOqiK3bRvz6AbBHGb3anEkEfV4F3npK1NgoBdgnalmaaBHTGK4mB5X3rRf7Cm6-ZoeR-8CNB7oLIRI1P6KYjXiHxcpS_i5q4ogV0GjZIzZtoOyUYnvXMm8MYOKsAJmre/s1600/IMG_3170.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhyphenhyphenZh1R_ZtULoNQOqiK3bRvz6AbBHGb3anEkEfV4F3npK1NgoBdgnalmaaBHTGK4mB5X3rRf7Cm6-ZoeR-8CNB7oLIRI1P6KYjXiHxcpS_i5q4ogV0GjZIzZtoOyUYnvXMm8MYOKsAJmre/s320/IMG_3170.jpg" width="239" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Evan geared up for battle at the base of Sopa de Ajo, an amazing 7b+ tufa route that is a fabulous and surprisingly techie intro to the long, fun routes at the Gran Boveda. Knee pads really helped on this one!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
If you have enough time, a day trip or two to Riglos to climb one of the super-unique conglomerate multipitches is an absolute must-do. Our day on Fiesta de los Biceps was a highlight of the entire trip to Spain. It's a 7 pitch amazing pumpfest - but the route should be called Fiesta de los Forearms because that's where it got us. The mind-blowing steepness, the crazy colour, texture and structure of the rock and the gigantic <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Griffon_Vulture">griffon vultures</a> swooping overhead make this a full-value outing and only a 1.5 hour drive from Rodellar. If you don't love the first pitch, keep going, the first one is the most chossy and not a good representation of the rest of the route.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMQezbns9__dwJqOdG2fAbH-a9OFMhaxDsDUxIpTLySKwC-6ncYiHwL-TUNNYRRz3Feofv_Q7EkDrTVo2gFXbcJ42m6g6AYSib3aqDB5pnikdl4Rn7_liJyCcUdN_zdF7PgwiCXpm9vXPz/s1600/IMG_1854.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMQezbns9__dwJqOdG2fAbH-a9OFMhaxDsDUxIpTLySKwC-6ncYiHwL-TUNNYRRz3Feofv_Q7EkDrTVo2gFXbcJ42m6g6AYSib3aqDB5pnikdl4Rn7_liJyCcUdN_zdF7PgwiCXpm9vXPz/s320/IMG_1854.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Morning light on the spires at Riglos</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvfNLQQMmsoc0_Vr3Bn5RAzUToxuD3R-zY6yP-pxVpGBnCU9y6ykUyTc2u-uYPoiehpqxGbeB8_ckMuLZq2q2US5P1-rfsq-e1yxWZF2-D1oMywB6G5JMbIjsXUhXtQRpOp-pGYRSrB3iw/s1600/IMG_1876.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvfNLQQMmsoc0_Vr3Bn5RAzUToxuD3R-zY6yP-pxVpGBnCU9y6ykUyTc2u-uYPoiehpqxGbeB8_ckMuLZq2q2US5P1-rfsq-e1yxWZF2-D1oMywB6G5JMbIjsXUhXtQRpOp-pGYRSrB3iw/s320/IMG_1876.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One thing that is not an issue on this route is the route finding! Follow the chalk highway.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGxTvT8s62Y4niHcjL8qlcOfoLbcOelBwexjYo2BgDCG721xAH7Pk_MSyIL0goBqa4FQozCljGUpyBK_hNe9vLNhryuybMwlFqZOxchtEbYZ4PzyVbjvnNfwqx3WuTQDe_d2YdBTlnHim_/s1600/IMG_1879+-+Version+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGxTvT8s62Y4niHcjL8qlcOfoLbcOelBwexjYo2BgDCG721xAH7Pk_MSyIL0goBqa4FQozCljGUpyBK_hNe9vLNhryuybMwlFqZOxchtEbYZ4PzyVbjvnNfwqx3WuTQDe_d2YdBTlnHim_/s320/IMG_1879+-+Version+2.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This is not a slab.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<b>Rest day activities</b>: Since I am a total spazz I am usually not content to just spent all of my rest days lazing about. Don't get me wrong, I like to chill a bit, but on longer trips I really like to use rest days as a way of making sure my whole trip isn't spent staring at the same hunk of rock. Rodellar has great trails right from town that wander around the canyons and ridges, which make for great hikes and rugged trail runs. Our favourite was a loop that took us past all these cool towers to the abandoned village of Otin and back a different way.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSi2cppGAfYqPVBmAw08koSniup2gDLIYhKy_RK2_D0dXv71xibF3lyFJQe1brxvpIlvOBkhlsbqvXwRczho5vw_SCT9Dkd5HorQHg8TYa9ML82aE23QLXYj61d65FZSq6L8IIdcsKz9QE/s1600/IMG_1810.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSi2cppGAfYqPVBmAw08koSniup2gDLIYhKy_RK2_D0dXv71xibF3lyFJQe1brxvpIlvOBkhlsbqvXwRczho5vw_SCT9Dkd5HorQHg8TYa9ML82aE23QLXYj61d65FZSq6L8IIdcsKz9QE/s320/IMG_1810.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This spire has some free and aid routes on it, and is about 30m hiking beyond the cragging at Rodellar. Looks tempting but we just walked by on our rest day. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZ02cXDdKRntKDvneT4XemVdrYJkjmo7LKRSoHITUgl1wkbfXsRppKNPlockvlzxc5eWNNZNPXmRqCnBLOSZcOJhgxXFLQCSUiNCjQDgYE7ZAfkPMWw0uBQmW6Zf2PKqjxrWt7eEV744fy/s1600/IMG_1818.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZ02cXDdKRntKDvneT4XemVdrYJkjmo7LKRSoHITUgl1wkbfXsRppKNPlockvlzxc5eWNNZNPXmRqCnBLOSZcOJhgxXFLQCSUiNCjQDgYE7ZAfkPMWw0uBQmW6Zf2PKqjxrWt7eEV744fy/s320/IMG_1818.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Evan clowning around at the abandoned village of Otin. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
For less active rest days, a fairly short drive gets you to the village of Alquezar where there is a pretty medieval stone village to wander through, and a relatively short canyon hike which is mostly cool and shady even on a hot day.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJVy_KUkaQZz-z1zM84j60WGZY9uqBF1dDJk0cW1cStzkx9V-q5JuDwdoVjLpGmSO-I8q0C32vLCKsH1LXbgDpXK8P8E0YCcA33z5VfH2XxBIyi2xBRHD-3flLGtjoglQm7qvEPpAS0m0I/s1600/IMG_1902.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJVy_KUkaQZz-z1zM84j60WGZY9uqBF1dDJk0cW1cStzkx9V-q5JuDwdoVjLpGmSO-I8q0C32vLCKsH1LXbgDpXK8P8E0YCcA33z5VfH2XxBIyi2xBRHD-3flLGtjoglQm7qvEPpAS0m0I/s320/IMG_1902.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Walkway in the canyon beneath Alquzar</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtaVUbawnvcr8KllXBIExXQ3Nt8FGHifYH-R-6q_vBKmvgUZKEkU02ijQk_Abiqan_3t-zO5Eb85Su5qge6TL8ZKKLr2utVU16gJC4tkGV1Nop0A8QtmGrCz5nng6RkIky2bqELXFnex4t/s1600/IMG_1907.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtaVUbawnvcr8KllXBIExXQ3Nt8FGHifYH-R-6q_vBKmvgUZKEkU02ijQk_Abiqan_3t-zO5Eb85Su5qge6TL8ZKKLr2utVU16gJC4tkGV1Nop0A8QtmGrCz5nng6RkIky2bqELXFnex4t/s320/IMG_1907.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lots of lovely details in the old village of Alquezar</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I didn't do it, but had the weather been a touch warmer I could easily see spending a day lazing beside the river that winds through the crags at Rodellar. There are a bunch of polished rock sites and beautiful clear pools that looked like a great spot to spend the day. </div>
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Well, that's what this softie gleaned from a 2.5 week stay in Rodellar. It seems to have something for everyone, whether you want to camp or sleep in a van or share a dorm room with a bunch of climbers, or go the soft route like us and get your own apartment. It's a great place to climb 6s and 7s and 8s as long as you don't mind lots of rowdy encouragement (VENGA, VENGA!) accompanied by second hand smoke of several varieties wafting up the wall when you are trying hard. People were friendly, the setting was beautiful. I'm definitely going back.<br />
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Jasminhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18106615510798115812noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4843724593150614779.post-38420726085574343712013-10-13T09:28:00.001-06:002013-10-13T09:28:52.823-06:00Women's ski and yoga week defies cliches (except for girls just wanna have fun)<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1BvCpvSA1z2fd9jPUZMpTMUVCBL0EuWLe-33ntUShQssl84rX9Y2u7p7bcSu0YZsdk5N3T3TsgNNiOmT3reqSBYY7fge-T29aLd-lw7UQfxdK-CK9pn59Z96DhJXdAgAm9iXiNkJjrG9y/s1600/women's_week_7-1379+copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1BvCpvSA1z2fd9jPUZMpTMUVCBL0EuWLe-33ntUShQssl84rX9Y2u7p7bcSu0YZsdk5N3T3TsgNNiOmT3reqSBYY7fge-T29aLd-lw7UQfxdK-CK9pn59Z96DhJXdAgAm9iXiNkJjrG9y/s320/women's_week_7-1379+copy.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ridgetop bliss at the 2012 Women's Ski and Yoga Week, <a href="http://www.vmt.ca/">Valhalla Mountain Touring</a> </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
If I asked you to picture a women’s backcountry ski and yoga
week, what comes to mind? Bright ski suits, frosted braids and poufy toques,
bouncing down perfect powdery slopes? Firelight glow on serene early morning
stretching sessions? Wide smiles as wine glasses clink and flavours are
savoured and recipes traded? <o:p></o:p><br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipp7UUAgZsu_n9kZRIKiAXD6hamnJChIQSdQSm17hPU2Wg69bTNtiDqGwKx-G_JGlLjBOtSYgegem5pRHXKDZXEoTl7WiJGuL8XHQGpw4YcYmKWqE_facPXqAMPO0IVaHNpOKLEC762F3e/s1600/womens_week_5-129+copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipp7UUAgZsu_n9kZRIKiAXD6hamnJChIQSdQSm17hPU2Wg69bTNtiDqGwKx-G_JGlLjBOtSYgegem5pRHXKDZXEoTl7WiJGuL8XHQGpw4YcYmKWqE_facPXqAMPO0IVaHNpOKLEC762F3e/s320/womens_week_5-129+copy.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">ACMG ski guide Kitt Redhead skiing like a girl.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8XCAMDqKtlmsTfrC0iVgk5Ow5OsrMxkk_4YHTOjorZLUbhaPUeGQg0gUyITPNK1ppjrj0n-HFoF5bEPNdHMS7iMGFFQv2vxH3oxyiznBuwl0EaWBWNRUOGOupca-9240mHin5RQWN7DBZ/s1600/women's_week_12-37+copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8XCAMDqKtlmsTfrC0iVgk5Ow5OsrMxkk_4YHTOjorZLUbhaPUeGQg0gUyITPNK1ppjrj0n-HFoF5bEPNdHMS7iMGFFQv2vxH3oxyiznBuwl0EaWBWNRUOGOupca-9240mHin5RQWN7DBZ/s320/women's_week_12-37+copy.jpg" width="316" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our own yoga teacher for the week Sarah Manwaring-Jones enjoys some fireside play.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-Rx5rNTXAi-a5cYc1H630JxuYMJRgCQGbBwne2tkXvqibrKSvDOVtFpOL1vB_G_21XttZ_BcGhkYUtZOIJRDedBUrTLCjB3pNy353fWGEfFS7bmry-_AIBjhT0ndsYVuMqfITUhePLgTa/s1600/women's_week_2-27+copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-Rx5rNTXAi-a5cYc1H630JxuYMJRgCQGbBwne2tkXvqibrKSvDOVtFpOL1vB_G_21XttZ_BcGhkYUtZOIJRDedBUrTLCjB3pNy353fWGEfFS7bmry-_AIBjhT0ndsYVuMqfITUhePLgTa/s320/women's_week_2-27+copy.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Don't worry. This is just the first course. There is also dinner, and dessert. And did I mention post-skiing appies. You earn your turns up here, which means refuelling is an important and awesome part of the week. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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But what about chainsaws confidently (carefully) brandished
to clear the path to our day’s skiing destination? Stuck snow machines hoisted
from unimaginably deep drifts by dozens of arms so we can be towed home as the
last pink light fades from the peaks. A conga line of rosy-cheeked girls carving
a waist-deep trench as we head towards peaks and steeps. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtNjzQyaUlxLlgBNNQglzSW42xr2tx-k9sTk-rinKuPPi3o86xdUD8BMNIK-Pdqa-E2PydXIDNd8mK76fDK53xF3qG6kt0kIdtn3TWFUUrfUEASuBI1LKQmmw3MQPqZVz2qM-eTi3N46-3/s1600/women's_week_2-136+copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtNjzQyaUlxLlgBNNQglzSW42xr2tx-k9sTk-rinKuPPi3o86xdUD8BMNIK-Pdqa-E2PydXIDNd8mK76fDK53xF3qG6kt0kIdtn3TWFUUrfUEASuBI1LKQmmw3MQPqZVz2qM-eTi3N46-3/s320/women's_week_2-136+copy.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">You thought I was kidding about the stuck snowmobile? This ain't Deer Valley, ladies! Time to push!</td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgr_5N3GNiCO5MNaIZfK0bRfp5C_3rUUoTWCnTTWe2EtMXIIq_3EssI91RFuDe998HKjgaeLWB1QlDULbjsqKwzl9vuuGc2wMJhKeXa0YsBlLiTTpfPBcq-N8U2G7gJ42KOs8SgGEOoOEot/s1600/women's_week_3-58+copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="background-color: white; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgr_5N3GNiCO5MNaIZfK0bRfp5C_3rUUoTWCnTTWe2EtMXIIq_3EssI91RFuDe998HKjgaeLWB1QlDULbjsqKwzl9vuuGc2wMJhKeXa0YsBlLiTTpfPBcq-N8U2G7gJ42KOs8SgGEOoOEot/s320/women's_week_3-58+copy.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">The fast-track to sauna and apres-ski goodies.</td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje3IK6golhyphenhyphendzuyzyedXC7HS98wrjN8dBg7CvZYjPkWrqxg2S-Ntq0nXrT4UuQMifXK7Li9nxXD4LkObT86YYeGAEXwwzJbFsmpqO0Izfe65WO1ORX9LqXd6cUoiHPNvfJQnMl5txFpSDI/s1600/women's_week_4-308+copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje3IK6golhyphenhyphendzuyzyedXC7HS98wrjN8dBg7CvZYjPkWrqxg2S-Ntq0nXrT4UuQMifXK7Li9nxXD4LkObT86YYeGAEXwwzJbFsmpqO0Izfe65WO1ORX9LqXd6cUoiHPNvfJQnMl5txFpSDI/s320/women's_week_4-308+copy.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Sticky skins require teamwork!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxiivotZfhUssyAGv7d3PmUOg_54q1q902U20fMzIGBSSOKEI6cLdsuFOxZVEWyNqJXPCjx8ppBozrEV6oU5ip9tFntv9gg3qli_gwU2lEShauAcIH10U_XWOe5TUl7qrH4cjIyCX2B0iP/s1600/womens_week_6-856+copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxiivotZfhUssyAGv7d3PmUOg_54q1q902U20fMzIGBSSOKEI6cLdsuFOxZVEWyNqJXPCjx8ppBozrEV6oU5ip9tFntv9gg3qli_gwU2lEShauAcIH10U_XWOe5TUl7qrH4cjIyCX2B0iP/s320/womens_week_6-856+copy.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Skiing in the trees also requires teamwork!</td></tr>
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Last January, a group of 11 women took over Valhalla
Mountain Touring for the first annual Women’s Ski and Yoga week. Ever since
then I have been wanting to do a little post about what the experience was
like, how it was different than hosting and guiding a mixed or men’s group at
the lodge. Despite the fact that the
week was overwhelmingly positive and fun, I have had trouble coming up with
good language to describe the unique qualities of a women’s week. It’s so hard
to steer around the clichés like “women are so much more supportive of each
other” (they were) and “the bathrooms remained much tidier with an all women’s
group” (they did). I just have to come to terms with the fact that one-liner
universal truths about women don’t really capture what was great about the experience
of hosting and guiding an all women’s group.<o:p></o:p><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This owl kept an eye on us during our lunch break one day.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Shadow play on the ridge top</td></tr>
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The week was about different things for different members of
the group. Some were go-getters new to
the sport who challenged themselves by pushing their skis uphill and getting
after it in the deep snow day after day for the whole week. Others were
seasoned mountain women getting back into the sport after time off with babies.
Some ladies came to push themselves. Some ladies came to chill. <o:p></o:p><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheBEDFfbXPliVP2NU0qKObldfCiqOqkYPbQ6bmTRDbaAvC5OEF0uhL6aPoz0_lW2BVUUYMPzHQhFDlGvIM-6bxYihUgGN7EdJbz_OoTTAzyEl9S4evh3zBnfw0ot3LxV8e4S_Et_mD8MRz/s1600/women's_wellness_1-326+copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="font-size: 13px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheBEDFfbXPliVP2NU0qKObldfCiqOqkYPbQ6bmTRDbaAvC5OEF0uhL6aPoz0_lW2BVUUYMPzHQhFDlGvIM-6bxYihUgGN7EdJbz_OoTTAzyEl9S4evh3zBnfw0ot3LxV8e4S_Et_mD8MRz/s320/women's_wellness_1-326+copy.jpg" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Smiles</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3QAXxB0Se9oaSg1n7eev5WtHbN2D6gfotmfDIOsUwPoyVukp4DZKxFkxsGCbrGMqMzD7UVHx2Lo1DFj9tk4JG2ZP2_nnZJPuyqQt8p2ayddxHB3wYvxSW_dUzlFT7cshophrMTLZLdsjs/s1600/women's_week_2-225+copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3QAXxB0Se9oaSg1n7eev5WtHbN2D6gfotmfDIOsUwPoyVukp4DZKxFkxsGCbrGMqMzD7UVHx2Lo1DFj9tk4JG2ZP2_nnZJPuyqQt8p2ayddxHB3wYvxSW_dUzlFT7cshophrMTLZLdsjs/s320/women's_week_2-225+copy.jpg" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Smiles</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9xxz2K7lTu-Ym9LyRR5VYP-fANfsSU-3EDIScdwoWihQnZbMKMlmD_gChfQDkoyWV23xWb08STOdG2zF0LgZnCKEFgwcHPW2xo7jQDXXArlZHbOBh8ItiM41xRW_2UnV9obmXDqvMr-UZ/s1600/women's_week_8-2+copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9xxz2K7lTu-Ym9LyRR5VYP-fANfsSU-3EDIScdwoWihQnZbMKMlmD_gChfQDkoyWV23xWb08STOdG2zF0LgZnCKEFgwcHPW2xo7jQDXXArlZHbOBh8ItiM41xRW_2UnV9obmXDqvMr-UZ/s320/women's_week_8-2+copy.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sunny smiles</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLZThBzR7B6E1hBvBdRAi5svi-82zsDdIFaSm2M70NvfJJ7VBz0WjsVaq7G_C8MVMHHjVRYogUYZjOQZUw7ephl2q-8fUd_O3OC-lYlcqYaMrKbVTnKWVqfYxXQyHPNpD0HtWsjkzQLsdD/s1600/women's_week_7-1422+copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLZThBzR7B6E1hBvBdRAi5svi-82zsDdIFaSm2M70NvfJJ7VBz0WjsVaq7G_C8MVMHHjVRYogUYZjOQZUw7ephl2q-8fUd_O3OC-lYlcqYaMrKbVTnKWVqfYxXQyHPNpD0HtWsjkzQLsdD/s320/women's_week_7-1422+copy.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Staff smiles</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMtDBEuxNxiPSVGPrq2xADQYG23D7m5IgXZI0espqIP2GHVaq6aO-lH1TckUrtacufkM2OxhopGP2xXLkaAlHDh1g9o0sMMq8-goIV5AEu9zbzBHkfDNBeIgrXOA8piQ6EiBOiWB9qRUnX/s1600/women's_week_4-405+copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="background-color: white; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMtDBEuxNxiPSVGPrq2xADQYG23D7m5IgXZI0espqIP2GHVaq6aO-lH1TckUrtacufkM2OxhopGP2xXLkaAlHDh1g9o0sMMq8-goIV5AEu9zbzBHkfDNBeIgrXOA8piQ6EiBOiWB9qRUnX/s320/women's_week_4-405+copy.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Snowy smiles</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Sarah, our yoga-guide for the week not only found the most exquisite ways to challenge and ease our ski-strained bodies. She also gracefully narrated the classes with ski, snow and mountain metaphors from the day, and closed the practice with poems, some even originals like this one.<br />
<br />
<div style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">
<div style="text-align: center;">
<i>-ruby creek-</i></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<i>have you ever heard the voices of winter?</i></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<i>the dialogue between snowflakes falling through space</i></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<i>a ridgetop breeze</i></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<i>splintering trees</i></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<i>the thundering whumph</i></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<i>and, the space, </i></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<i>where dialogue ceases</i></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<i>and there is a voice, a sound, a cellular experience of silence</i></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<i>i still feel it now, hours later, </i></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<i>it touches some deep place inside of me</i></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<i>that yearns for endless quiet</i></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<i>where time and space stand still</i></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<i>and all I know is in(Finn)ity</i></div>
</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaviWCdgZgIuPbRp04W0hyphenhyphenrNx5AybWpR1lwvMfUp58S1niog1iQCUI4Rs_DNQfe9agSeN7-pjtQNKxxoLhpfeWIuTswDHNRZ0r-QYvXjZ_mrsHfMIWymzhOVGOXZVpVMhD0ge5K4ckcRDA/s1600/women's_week_7-1842+copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="background-color: white; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="175" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaviWCdgZgIuPbRp04W0hyphenhyphenrNx5AybWpR1lwvMfUp58S1niog1iQCUI4Rs_DNQfe9agSeN7-pjtQNKxxoLhpfeWIuTswDHNRZ0r-QYvXjZ_mrsHfMIWymzhOVGOXZVpVMhD0ge5K4ckcRDA/s320/women's_week_7-1842+copy.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The light in January is really special, in part because there isn't very much of it!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIBWe0A9HoJRLnO2E85LtrXtwFqYKwbCOlFhmPhlvDcFuLb1NEeaqwCGfWxFCVLf8EPyeYgVll-ueu3BjY3zch9AZScLteYiZpzOGmQZYqzbgGGirZLXK9ZXdr973XGC1_YAwh90ndGlrF/s1600/women's_week_7-1862+copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIBWe0A9HoJRLnO2E85LtrXtwFqYKwbCOlFhmPhlvDcFuLb1NEeaqwCGfWxFCVLf8EPyeYgVll-ueu3BjY3zch9AZScLteYiZpzOGmQZYqzbgGGirZLXK9ZXdr973XGC1_YAwh90ndGlrF/s320/women's_week_7-1862+copy.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cruising home after a day of sunny powder skiing.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
It is a rare treat to get to spend a week in the mountains
with a big group of women, and even more special to get to share my winter work
space with my friends Kitt Redhead (the other ski guide for the week) and Sarah
Manwaring-Jones (the yoga teacher).
Natalie Harris worked her butt off (small girl, giant camera!) to take these
beautiful photos that capture the heart of the week. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgP-b0g0qCkPiW0NLi-6lr_QPbP8VLUdaxDy6AaxOGSCsor6XTsyQhmhtCr6cPYgHjRoNFj_0yYQ-hOto0H5zjPuCchbRNUxQedYNdPAR7FQTJwJsZLVP0hYv502HmaK0-sLb7priIZaFo0/s1600/women's_week_7-1315+copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgP-b0g0qCkPiW0NLi-6lr_QPbP8VLUdaxDy6AaxOGSCsor6XTsyQhmhtCr6cPYgHjRoNFj_0yYQ-hOto0H5zjPuCchbRNUxQedYNdPAR7FQTJwJsZLVP0hYv502HmaK0-sLb7priIZaFo0/s320/women's_week_7-1315+copy.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Even in a big group, there is always solitude in the mountains. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-UM0J3g8xp9Jb3cNTarEo4qRItbLWGpblb18ML2b58m_0J_PODcif-S7xR6K07MZXk85PzuOWchkAwfW4KkGcTT0D5bB2RiBhahWAXr1ipzDRr_r53EyTAOuTT_bJvKaCaYKSbn5pcw49/s1600/women's_week_7-1539+copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-UM0J3g8xp9Jb3cNTarEo4qRItbLWGpblb18ML2b58m_0J_PODcif-S7xR6K07MZXk85PzuOWchkAwfW4KkGcTT0D5bB2RiBhahWAXr1ipzDRr_r53EyTAOuTT_bJvKaCaYKSbn5pcw49/s320/women's_week_7-1539+copy.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Got to go up...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFJ0rF2ixVipwIGNcN7LBp6BEWOEUF6f0gWlDVf4xMT_zUv7bR1DEuL7KzpY-ivbhNWKD7b7EMeBlGckGUWp53P52e2bWUjrRcV-bSokYn-cPZaVIAk4pcMllgXKLts1ynjXbBX8OInwoF/s1600/women's_week_7-1721+copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="132" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFJ0rF2ixVipwIGNcN7LBp6BEWOEUF6f0gWlDVf4xMT_zUv7bR1DEuL7KzpY-ivbhNWKD7b7EMeBlGckGUWp53P52e2bWUjrRcV-bSokYn-cPZaVIAk4pcMllgXKLts1ynjXbBX8OInwoF/s320/women's_week_7-1721+copy.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">To go down</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOmZfoDkKQalRdAK1wq4QVJXvPPq1mgQRIrlhRO5q41RGa7jceVzScAESsTXLH4GpZT88EvsXV85UfuBVePmjhcLl1Q0V1uaSgtDyzHDP2bjh11L7F-fci3ZmfjHfSAuU9tuVDVG528aSW/s1600/women's_week_7-1624+copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOmZfoDkKQalRdAK1wq4QVJXvPPq1mgQRIrlhRO5q41RGa7jceVzScAESsTXLH4GpZT88EvsXV85UfuBVePmjhcLl1Q0V1uaSgtDyzHDP2bjh11L7F-fci3ZmfjHfSAuU9tuVDVG528aSW/s320/women's_week_7-1624+copy.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And then back up...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZMTBYL-6JcFxD42Nz3EPab5EXo7FnhxaY9sDXj_DcapaObYR8bfLXPUKDgcjjM6vsPhOT0Roxs8toxXlb8ysoWwmtDKtwimyQNmpY4RhruC1zYO4uawBAsnInRMxT340WdZp-a5fPDmDs/s1600/women's_week_7-1779+copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="179" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZMTBYL-6JcFxD42Nz3EPab5EXo7FnhxaY9sDXj_DcapaObYR8bfLXPUKDgcjjM6vsPhOT0Roxs8toxXlb8ysoWwmtDKtwimyQNmpY4RhruC1zYO4uawBAsnInRMxT340WdZp-a5fPDmDs/s320/women's_week_7-1779+copy.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">For some more down. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
If you think you would enjoy a week of skiing, yoga, good
eats and great company, there are still a few spots available in this year’s
Women’s Ski and Yoga Week at Valhalla Mountain Touring. Fresh air, deep snow
and lots of exercise-induced (and post-sauna snow roll induced) endorphins are
guaranteed. Chainsaws and stuck snowmobiles are not.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
What: Women’s Ski and Yoga Week, Jan 12-19, 2014<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Where: Valhalla Mountain Touring, Selkirk Mountains, BC
(near New Denver) <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Price: $2120 per person (including tax). Includes
transportation to the lodge by snowcat, 7 nights accommodation, guiding, all
meals, daily yoga.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Open to: Good fitness and intermediate to advanced downhill
skiing skills. Prior backcountry skiing experience recommended but not
required. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSfa3T2kSrGU_zHoMhNIueTgn6vWMmQEjzpYgJFe6kA_tX8oYEWqkIiuaoyQKUY2YXpe0QuFfKcXmF-5SjNQRWFcY_5QS1nMPB9_f-6txD0lztkUi_MBKm_IK0WDz-sAaQMf-E35Q1sehW/s1600/women's_week_2-4+copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="314" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSfa3T2kSrGU_zHoMhNIueTgn6vWMmQEjzpYgJFe6kA_tX8oYEWqkIiuaoyQKUY2YXpe0QuFfKcXmF-5SjNQRWFcY_5QS1nMPB9_f-6txD0lztkUi_MBKm_IK0WDz-sAaQMf-E35Q1sehW/s320/women's_week_2-4+copy.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">If you think you could use some of this</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJ7FdtBMgOjYGrWWFnzTFmt7h-2y3nIMwbbFjV2ATmF_f-xBqkotq3-gYgf7QX-KWtxpIZ1yMegdnB7CsNNxiBT-NxJqW9GQAOBPsp_nvWokBEOp_-Qq9G8YslMWKjAzJiSarRIwdFAtuJ/s1600/womens_week_5-174+copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJ7FdtBMgOjYGrWWFnzTFmt7h-2y3nIMwbbFjV2ATmF_f-xBqkotq3-gYgf7QX-KWtxpIZ1yMegdnB7CsNNxiBT-NxJqW9GQAOBPsp_nvWokBEOp_-Qq9G8YslMWKjAzJiSarRIwdFAtuJ/s320/womens_week_5-174+copy.jpg" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And some of this</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir6cSJzHtAXrQxzmyy114KAQWVU3zc6HuB7lYUmaMY5PgyNpZ3dyZ9AttvK3T1EdS45O5OFQBRkQbRU-F34690CZ7qLB-ji6R4XffuiE4Asap68vCHnxDpeOydHg0bZC_UmxI9w1pFPSvk/s1600/women's_week_2-54+copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir6cSJzHtAXrQxzmyy114KAQWVU3zc6HuB7lYUmaMY5PgyNpZ3dyZ9AttvK3T1EdS45O5OFQBRkQbRU-F34690CZ7qLB-ji6R4XffuiE4Asap68vCHnxDpeOydHg0bZC_UmxI9w1pFPSvk/s320/women's_week_2-54+copy.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">You should join us here Jan 12-19, 2014. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<!--EndFragment-->Jasminhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18106615510798115812noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4843724593150614779.post-85304181877701240092013-08-26T17:34:00.000-06:002013-08-28T18:45:24.435-06:00Spicy Red Watchtower - North Howser Tower, Bugaboos, BC<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
EFFFFFFFF! Goddamn son of a BEEEEEEEEAAAAATTTTCH! I was losing my shit and I knew it. I couldn't look Hannah in the eye as I vomited out my tantrum. Hands shaking with frustration I rigged a rappel off the #4 camalot I was hanging on and wriggled and writhed my way into the darkness of the grit-covered snow tunnel. I had dropped my climbing shoe as I was trying to put it on while hanging in an awkward position over the moat at the base of North Howser Tower in the Bugaboos. Luckily the moat wasn't too deep and it only took a few minutes to grab my shoe and batman 4 meters back to surface. My outburst was partially due to the fact that this was my second lap into the moat, the first was to grab my crampon which I had also let slip out of my grasp. I was frustrated at myself for being careless, but also at not being more direct with my opinion about where the route started. I was trying to rush because we had just wasted over an hour climbing 60m up the wrong feature in the murky light of dawn despite my feeling that what we could see above us did not match our beta photo and route description. </div>
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I wiped as much of the melted snow and grit off my climbing shoes as I could and started jamming, the familiar flow of moving up a perfect granite splitter quickly calmed my nerves. "Sorry for my freakout Hannah" I said, "this pitch is awesome, you are going to love it!".<br />
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Hannah Preston and I were on the second instalment of a two-part Bugaboos mission. Our first week had been spent around Applebee, trying to warm up to climbing in the mountains and climbing together. Although we are both Squamish based climbers and guides, we haven't climbed together much, in part because almost 10 years of age separates us. Hannah is by no means a novice climber. At 23 she has climbed 5.12+ trad, done the Nose in a day, climbed a handful of El Cap routes, soloed several grade V aid routes and achieved her ACMG Apprentice Rock Guide certification. She began climbing as a kid and by the time she finished high school she was seriously hooked, embarking on long road trips to the States and spending summers in Squamish. Hannah has a rare combination of motivation, passion and a strong background of big-walls and free climbs, and this blend made her a great partner with whom I could attempt a bigger alpine rock objective.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsmVt1pMuelEb0XdyBf0nQ-1N4_QXdoptOulMnLjrlzX8AyF7t42b48mr_D6mJzJXbkgRq8nCx3eAD1_HRbuD1Sup_qEC9U52kyxofdFK5pumHZiKHBDHtla5KXpwehnYjl3J1jHlG938h/s1600/IMG_1486.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsmVt1pMuelEb0XdyBf0nQ-1N4_QXdoptOulMnLjrlzX8AyF7t42b48mr_D6mJzJXbkgRq8nCx3eAD1_HRbuD1Sup_qEC9U52kyxofdFK5pumHZiKHBDHtla5KXpwehnYjl3J1jHlG938h/s400/IMG_1486.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Golden sunrise on the flawless granite of Snowpatch and Bugaboo Spires</td></tr>
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Our time at Applebee was fun, but daily thundershowers kept us from completing our two main objectives - Sendero Norte on the East Face of Snowpatch Spire and Divine Interventions on the East Face of Bugaboo Spire. We climbed part of both of these routes and they seem amazing. I can't wait to get back and complete them in some better weather. Ironically, the one day it didn't rain we climbed the Edwards-Neufield on Crescent Tower. The 7 pitch route near camp has a few sections of good climbing, but overall was fairly mediocre considering the gems that surround it.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sun peaking out on a perfect morning before a stormy afternoon</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMTblB0Tn1t-CEEunZQrGZqMrx5OIDJ3fWL7uf9NgE4qZlTIiQSmVUgzZLWwKV22D8Sv9jpKADrzToC9WdwgqYLbOpj4vwx18TyYcj4v1y7EzNjAUW6km3kVxdMRKu5o9_ILIlMyOMMS7d/s1600/IMG_1492.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMTblB0Tn1t-CEEunZQrGZqMrx5OIDJ3fWL7uf9NgE4qZlTIiQSmVUgzZLWwKV22D8Sv9jpKADrzToC9WdwgqYLbOpj4vwx18TyYcj4v1y7EzNjAUW6km3kVxdMRKu5o9_ILIlMyOMMS7d/s400/IMG_1492.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Heading up the cruxy second pitch of Sendero Norte</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhM7VHwuzuqQgqnzqCwOV6Ff9jgLXwrZdJM7CFc0Ep08ecBHQNvlO54x1X_2aIfLl8CLSAJqDqEmNxVhRaTOLcUu2OkYBuSF_FhhdtbvH4sc04aPcqXrz-uSiNKI6OLuOwofX-VFAv9n2Ai/s1600/IMG_1508.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhM7VHwuzuqQgqnzqCwOV6Ff9jgLXwrZdJM7CFc0Ep08ecBHQNvlO54x1X_2aIfLl8CLSAJqDqEmNxVhRaTOLcUu2OkYBuSF_FhhdtbvH4sc04aPcqXrz-uSiNKI6OLuOwofX-VFAv9n2Ai/s400/IMG_1508.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hanna enjoying the "Split Pillar" pitch on Sendero Norte</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ4H28i8VW5_WdKYD5qhutgRxVg9yCWfmAL8ZAbSmck7nSQXz3-R93EFoJV2uV9i2zDtQvCvncErgMrCZkGPgLuuAmvLHKLjIHaO0PULlNfwI-GCi5MDEOArzkJPCvQsIAVJ5kxYfsvNIO/s1600/IMG_1527.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ4H28i8VW5_WdKYD5qhutgRxVg9yCWfmAL8ZAbSmck7nSQXz3-R93EFoJV2uV9i2zDtQvCvncErgMrCZkGPgLuuAmvLHKLjIHaO0PULlNfwI-GCi5MDEOArzkJPCvQsIAVJ5kxYfsvNIO/s400/IMG_1527.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Matty Segal and Will Stanhope, poster boys for commitment, on their 40th day of sessioning uber-proj Tom Egan Memorial Route. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbYYP47Pdp1LOoJJ19JsOByLXrS2NQdMATN6ycfJPWf8QX_VngSXdiRVPofqsVbiGHxOHq5fhGzqTMf7P2E_mhNDr0bpfudTxtpTYnYJjQp-AFrm9eQYdbTUmQPtITBDOq6XE-psP9dRTj/s1600/IMG_1539.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbYYP47Pdp1LOoJJ19JsOByLXrS2NQdMATN6ycfJPWf8QX_VngSXdiRVPofqsVbiGHxOHq5fhGzqTMf7P2E_mhNDr0bpfudTxtpTYnYJjQp-AFrm9eQYdbTUmQPtITBDOq6XE-psP9dRTj/s400/IMG_1539.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The scenery was probably better than the climbing on the Edwards Neufield on Crescent Tower</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXukvp4MtlFW4UeHukoAH527EzASnnlSrodmARobK3XFMMyNTaKtTt84HkNsl1egaQYUaBfepHsj0PR7_O0pdh8exSLBtsJHMJkOshDc0W-ZMFUpv8QoPCEYX7k-RkpSJx-D5FfkbUz63L/s1600/IMG_1551.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXukvp4MtlFW4UeHukoAH527EzASnnlSrodmARobK3XFMMyNTaKtTt84HkNsl1egaQYUaBfepHsj0PR7_O0pdh8exSLBtsJHMJkOshDc0W-ZMFUpv8QoPCEYX7k-RkpSJx-D5FfkbUz63L/s400/IMG_1551.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Howsers peak over the col at dawn as we head towards Divine Intervention only to be rained off after 4 pitches. </td></tr>
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After spending a weekend teaching a Women's Climbing and Yoga Series at Lake Louise with the lovely yoga instructor Lydia Zamorano, we were centered, limber and ready to head back into the Bugs for round two. We both really wanted to climb something on the huge west face of North Howser Tower, and after researching a bunch of options, it seemed that starting up Spicy Red Beans (<a href="http://alpinestyle.ca/sites/default/files/Spicy%20Beans%20Beta036.pdf">topo here</a>), then doing a runout traverse pitch into All Along the Watchtower (<a href="http://www.mountainproject.com/v/108119605">topo here</a>) was the option that provided the most well-protected, straightforward climbing with minimal route finding challenges. Tony McLane, Hannah's boyfriend had soloed this particular combo in an extremely bold 15 hour camp to camp effort a month earlier, and he kindly provided us with beta and encouragement. We weren't sure if the unsettled weather pattern would provide us with the 24 hour window we felt we needed to commit to the imposing face.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqgfhLQbF-f4EVIxLzjG899sUFCsEixrazV9PWKrpDV0-VLA7t6SQKaoymHHUtRhNeIKVPuatU9o42q52FuR8_60IoCBJhOVcGMIOmuDw4x0kH01OW4mMWVUbPO-_-IN2jkldSSgzPfx9b/s1600/IMG_1568.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="font-size: 13px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="351" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqgfhLQbF-f4EVIxLzjG899sUFCsEixrazV9PWKrpDV0-VLA7t6SQKaoymHHUtRhNeIKVPuatU9o42q52FuR8_60IoCBJhOVcGMIOmuDw4x0kH01OW4mMWVUbPO-_-IN2jkldSSgzPfx9b/s400/IMG_1568.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The lovely women of our Women's Climbing and Yoga Series weekend in Lake Louise</td></tr>
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Part of what lends this face its reputation is that it is accessed by four steep double rope rappels to reach the basin beneath the tower, meaning that retreat from the routes back to base camp in East Creek due to weather or accidents requires significant time, effort and hazard. Additionally, online trip reports and some stories from friends recounted frequent and large natural rockfalls into the basin which you must cross to get to the base of the wall. Rockfall is something that really scares me and can quickly kill my desire to attempt a route. I love climbing, but after losing many friends, acquaintances and heroes, and seeing that there are so many more ways to savour life, it's just not worth it to me to choose routes with significant objective hazards. The knowledge that we would have to cross this threatened slope to gain the climbs weighed heavy on me as we packed our bags to head back in to Applebee. I wasn't sure how to deal with the nerves, so just decided to focus on one step at a time, and if things weren't feeling right, to pull the pin and head home.<br />
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Our first night back in the Bugs was a great one to relieve our headspace issues and get back to what it's really all about - fun times with friends in beautiful places, appreciating things you can't appreciate down in the valleys surrounded by comforts and distractions. After sunbathing and a dip in the lake above Applebee, we enjoyed drinks, laughs and music while spectating an epic lightning storm with friends, revelling in the fresh air and 360 degree panoramas of granite spires and crumbling glaciers. In the morning we would get the final weather report via sat phone and make the call to head to East Creek or head home to Squamish, where our boys, work and lives awaited our return.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj82bQfW2xTzEhxUPoDMPTg2idLHKEVBSkfV4YHMYOVXJmRDmaNLzdLdhGOlBxHavEgsJB01D4dGm_yJml3zddsCVBnuJI_VkeYf0hwjOWvrWcgFCePfe6EFE5thG00JnuUV3J-C3KYju-/s1600/IMG_1602.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="font-size: 13px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj82bQfW2xTzEhxUPoDMPTg2idLHKEVBSkfV4YHMYOVXJmRDmaNLzdLdhGOlBxHavEgsJB01D4dGm_yJml3zddsCVBnuJI_VkeYf0hwjOWvrWcgFCePfe6EFE5thG00JnuUV3J-C3KYju-/s400/IMG_1602.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cocktail hour in Applebee would not be complete without these two.</td></tr>
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With the weather report staying positive, we trekked our gear to East Creek and set up camp beneath the inspiring face of the Minaret on South Howser. We arrived just as a helicopter was long-lining a climber with a broken ankle off the famous Becky-Chouinard route, simultaneously reminding us of the perils of climbing and the fact that highly-trained backup was not too far away.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7zGdfpIJZMb3DBLYfzm_Y2p37Bzeo3whnfLgFxfw5HSs_vQNrhkqjd7ZpQhB6owqpTQpjbHiQtfwIFI9KRXCR1fG-_vI-Q7NhjZTYL7JMWfTub9dam5J85uI7Nuo1A8YaXHg66yKvPlO8/s1600/IMG_1721.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7zGdfpIJZMb3DBLYfzm_Y2p37Bzeo3whnfLgFxfw5HSs_vQNrhkqjd7ZpQhB6owqpTQpjbHiQtfwIFI9KRXCR1fG-_vI-Q7NhjZTYL7JMWfTub9dam5J85uI7Nuo1A8YaXHg66yKvPlO8/s400/IMG_1721.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Heading to East Creek</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRXSmU0EYMT-YrskXfEK0olkgbAQ6PAQj17bC0S4OOynBpdjVPvZTUYK9RJ9U-pZXSxQxulD4C7D17V8UcAbhvVrYM7obl5h9Q_M9H7ehRThS4S8U_KuFsvLc6yCw-Cl7B4fohTEjVTWOW/s1600/IMG_1638.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRXSmU0EYMT-YrskXfEK0olkgbAQ6PAQj17bC0S4OOynBpdjVPvZTUYK9RJ9U-pZXSxQxulD4C7D17V8UcAbhvVrYM7obl5h9Q_M9H7ehRThS4S8U_KuFsvLc6yCw-Cl7B4fohTEjVTWOW/s400/IMG_1638.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiC9OqHi-YYH6NPe0zuGCdU3MeXGFzt53ilp9kzAgXG35fDoeOdqTLkCE6xT6ZlD1Pj0BFDHavbJLDbjeXkUrU2OSzMZ53-PlMk_0aO-1yXwxzA9kcY8usIW7zIbalrGwYS2dOt2Sank18G/s1600/IMG_1646.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiC9OqHi-YYH6NPe0zuGCdU3MeXGFzt53ilp9kzAgXG35fDoeOdqTLkCE6xT6ZlD1Pj0BFDHavbJLDbjeXkUrU2OSzMZ53-PlMk_0aO-1yXwxzA9kcY8usIW7zIbalrGwYS2dOt2Sank18G/s400/IMG_1646.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Long-line rescue off the Becky-Chouinard</td></tr>
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Our 2AM wakeup wasn't too painful. Temps were mild and mentally we were both really ready to get the adventure under way. Our approach to the raps went smoothly in the dark and as we began the descent into the basin the focus on the familiar tasks at hand (prepping the ropes, setting up the raps, pulling the ropes) provided comfort as we moved into unknown terrain. As Hannah was looking for one of the stations, I waited on a ledge with my light off to preserve batteries until I felt something crawl on my leg. Jumping back I turned on my headlamp to reveal a fat and shiny packrat. The packrat was extremely tame and kept crawling towards me until I waved my arms at it. I was relieved when Hannah found the station because it felt like eventually it was going to be either me or the packrat on the ledge, but not both of us.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZET1qmKoSF7kNJrrGhgSvOvA5mzbmSscMY6rbnMUoKzIaldtu8ElkgRkSr_-OZ3K00DjGWQgJ2qLEnl_bfYxt7jG2s9qbftBSqa_bd49xACwxOXl2aKZFEkVvaQOOHX8NF_D2DfV-o4q5/s1600/IMG_1660.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZET1qmKoSF7kNJrrGhgSvOvA5mzbmSscMY6rbnMUoKzIaldtu8ElkgRkSr_-OZ3K00DjGWQgJ2qLEnl_bfYxt7jG2s9qbftBSqa_bd49xACwxOXl2aKZFEkVvaQOOHX8NF_D2DfV-o4q5/s400/IMG_1660.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hannah rigs the raps in the dark on our way to the base of North Howser</td></tr>
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As we approached what was for me the mental crux of the mission - the rockfall threatened snowfield we had to cross - my chest began to tighten. Clattering of small rocks on the slope heightened my nervousness, but darkness cloaked the terrain we needed to cross and the source of the rockfall. Before starting the final rap onto the snow, Hannah and I donned our crampons and discussed our plan to pull and coil the ropes and beeline across the slope as quickly as possible, separated so that if one of us was hit by rocks, the other could respond. I felt sick to my stomach as we discussed these details and when the ropes were coiled and stashed on our packs, I began moving as fast as I could across the snow. When we reached the moat at the base of the wall relief washed over me. Now was the part of the day I was really looking forward to; climbing a giant granite face! 20 minutes later as I crouched in the moat belaying Hannah on what would turn out to be the wrong route, the roar of rocks falling down the slope we had just crossed filled my ears. Over the course of the morning, long before the sun hit or significant warming of the air temperature, at least four large rockfalls occurred, one of which was a boulder the size of a smart car bouncing down the snow.<br />
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When we were finally on the right route we moved steadily upwards, both carrying packs and climbing in pitches or simulclimbing through mostly 5.9 and 5.10 cracks and chimneys. After 7 pitches by the topo, we reached broken terraces where a traverse from the Armageddon corner left into All Along the Watchtower is possible by following a fractured, runout dyke feature. Hannah cruised through the easy but hard to protect moves on the dyke, and one more 60m pitch of traversing to a flared 5.9 corner crack brought to the base of the giant corner system that the Watchtower is known for.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiA9XQ0EAU4CRi4pehwKcwiQEQWwqkfcfqpGMryFjH3yaPJLYtu-U9b_UWO8oWWL0lnqDXfsFhPPsMPmVeRenGDdshDLs00yEVBLA0Sj-ulJgSMoEjKzs0V5aWfF5T5PdXF7oFEwfgl4-Ah/s1600/IMG_1664.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiA9XQ0EAU4CRi4pehwKcwiQEQWwqkfcfqpGMryFjH3yaPJLYtu-U9b_UWO8oWWL0lnqDXfsFhPPsMPmVeRenGDdshDLs00yEVBLA0Sj-ulJgSMoEjKzs0V5aWfF5T5PdXF7oFEwfgl4-Ah/s400/IMG_1664.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It might be awesome, but it's still alpine. Gotta get your vegetate-on. Hannah confidently uses the moss as a foothold.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg61r2gNjqPTDaBVFTYXWTv9H2s5hsB9l5oH6ft7mc4uaiiDukfXkC2ZMi4fm5dXIogxuIiaTbPkmI1hvYCPDOCJnmV59DyfTZEQzGM96Eok7mHtTVIMkTjUL2EsC4rxhU2paWjKDlPCQF6/s1600/IMG_1667.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg61r2gNjqPTDaBVFTYXWTv9H2s5hsB9l5oH6ft7mc4uaiiDukfXkC2ZMi4fm5dXIogxuIiaTbPkmI1hvYCPDOCJnmV59DyfTZEQzGM96Eok7mHtTVIMkTjUL2EsC4rxhU2paWjKDlPCQF6/s400/IMG_1667.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hannah beginning the dyke traverse out of the Armageddon corner to link Spicy Red Beans into All Along the Watchtower</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKNMk7egHfR6WFsEhe0mAMusmvx7TzUSajZ2NzwNzFgae70AIG19dDkIHNky_38t6A7MHhkw1ddt6XbpyL76vteVdTdi7f6KDYbIHEQxxlVEbxPmGn7HgStU8hEiW-hnv1lLY6DkobF6f_/s1600/IMG_1669.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKNMk7egHfR6WFsEhe0mAMusmvx7TzUSajZ2NzwNzFgae70AIG19dDkIHNky_38t6A7MHhkw1ddt6XbpyL76vteVdTdi7f6KDYbIHEQxxlVEbxPmGn7HgStU8hEiW-hnv1lLY6DkobF6f_/s400/IMG_1669.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hannah in a smoky haze but looking stoked we are finally in the Watchtower dihedral. Little does she know this is the last ledge belay we are going to see for a long while. </td></tr>
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We followed the dead-vertical 90 degree corner for 7 pitches. The climbing on this part of the route was amazing. Mostly solid finger locks, and good foot scums in the corner kept most of the climbing feeling like 5.10 or 5.11-. As we approached the crux the gear became more fiddly and we french freed as necessary to keep ourselves flowing upwards in good time. We hauled our packs using the tag line, but they kept getting stuck in the corner, and the seconder would have to free them, making for tough rope management at the very uncomfortable hanging gear belays in the dihedral. Physically I felt like the bag hauling was taking more of a toll than the climbing! It would be awesome and I think quite doable to free all of these pitches, but my first crack at tackling the North Howser was intimidating enough as it was, without worrying about climbing it in an ideal style.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8P_Acx3ZTTL1sEPbyjIlGSUlQra1_Jr5P0ZIfF2V2Llcx_7IPZxCOpJO0Wwo_aURoif_jlGs2zHqFKU_9NTY-4Xk1DiorT4HI2m2GRcj_ELt9XfjRC2FZAksXMYLKRcSIgUViGyVaFWlR/s1600/IMG_1670.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8P_Acx3ZTTL1sEPbyjIlGSUlQra1_Jr5P0ZIfF2V2Llcx_7IPZxCOpJO0Wwo_aURoif_jlGs2zHqFKU_9NTY-4Xk1DiorT4HI2m2GRcj_ELt9XfjRC2FZAksXMYLKRcSIgUViGyVaFWlR/s400/IMG_1670.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me following the third corner pitch. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYsVIQXK9NcaqpX7p4gYA3_q1xW1LDLbWW_JHWmvNlMo4VCiGnzcDfyT60omm6X48bMeFbF4AcSGkXxyIkEwywv9f3vwV5BodUPJRvCEno-nbjJh_-Lk06Fgf3groRmFyXGnmdtUFh1Hfm/s1600/IMG_1673.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYsVIQXK9NcaqpX7p4gYA3_q1xW1LDLbWW_JHWmvNlMo4VCiGnzcDfyT60omm6X48bMeFbF4AcSGkXxyIkEwywv9f3vwV5BodUPJRvCEno-nbjJh_-Lk06Fgf3groRmFyXGnmdtUFh1Hfm/s400/IMG_1673.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Continuing up the corner</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEho0lHvIjwmveQ1En6m7-kCGESo42LkVer-zyjiPkzeotM8gGJikbrmkVDApx_vyGkrZNhyPncBBOm4wHx4yA8apEe-YrDmxGqtdFrXa-MIM7ChxuiiurMQ6HruFq_SOBtaPg7Fmuz1je7W/s1600/IMG_1682.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEho0lHvIjwmveQ1En6m7-kCGESo42LkVer-zyjiPkzeotM8gGJikbrmkVDApx_vyGkrZNhyPncBBOm4wHx4yA8apEe-YrDmxGqtdFrXa-MIM7ChxuiiurMQ6HruFq_SOBtaPg7Fmuz1je7W/s320/IMG_1682.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hannah getting it done on the roof pitch (5.12 for some, C2 for us)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPX-eZr4WHasQm5QDH8xJaSKW7Uezp6QwyTcXI4HDqD0olQ-A4-znPA8aKwJ7u7IfIV_h6wAuidutlwzIwZ2g6XdICKNdIvGvL-L-2xndIKJRv1ClwxhMGBiZ2nb3cOB3LQqsADNk2vRUa/s1600/IMG_1690.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPX-eZr4WHasQm5QDH8xJaSKW7Uezp6QwyTcXI4HDqD0olQ-A4-znPA8aKwJ7u7IfIV_h6wAuidutlwzIwZ2g6XdICKNdIvGvL-L-2xndIKJRv1ClwxhMGBiZ2nb3cOB3LQqsADNk2vRUa/s320/IMG_1690.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hannah follows the last of the dihedral pitches. Forest fire smoke is hazing the views and irritating our throats.</td></tr>
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We reached the top of the steep dihedral and quickly climbed the final few 5.8 pitches to gain the summit ridge where our toes squeeled like joyful little piggies as we changed into our approach shoes. With the sun still high above the horizon, we relaxed and enjoyed simul-climbing and then soloing the long ridge to reach the summit. The raps off the east face went as smooth as can be, and even the long rap over the bergschrund was far less intimidating than some of the challenges I'd faced last year in the Waddington Range. We stayed roped up for safety as we traversed above massive crevasses until we reached the yak-track trench left by climbers descending the ever-popular Becky-Chouinard.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiE0Gk_JEp4FUmjpWO1QFB0JZA-BuaAhJs1PIVHQkPUD_Duo48QSpFcy6fnEneyy8aTdE3yGAS-Ak5HkGpDOtLTgo4_moOgJeXh609pBkHYp7XaZyYwJGkJWFn495bPHz5zpg4dVKefFbIU/s1600/IMG_1697.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiE0Gk_JEp4FUmjpWO1QFB0JZA-BuaAhJs1PIVHQkPUD_Duo48QSpFcy6fnEneyy8aTdE3yGAS-Ak5HkGpDOtLTgo4_moOgJeXh609pBkHYp7XaZyYwJGkJWFn495bPHz5zpg4dVKefFbIU/s400/IMG_1697.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hannah enjoys happy toes and the transition to simuling on the ridge. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0NEUCZg8eWFKt0aUkDFp_xJi1nR4Q0NnhoQipOERh3j5BAJwEXYeQQCrhcChhIuyCYvpANkuKT1xYzSHC2xK5uDowWmo0nphvqu53KBNqUFOHdT5fKdWzZgPQERbKoGp0WIuLbdMpXGRt/s1600/IMG_1699.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0NEUCZg8eWFKt0aUkDFp_xJi1nR4Q0NnhoQipOERh3j5BAJwEXYeQQCrhcChhIuyCYvpANkuKT1xYzSHC2xK5uDowWmo0nphvqu53KBNqUFOHdT5fKdWzZgPQERbKoGp0WIuLbdMpXGRt/s400/IMG_1699.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me looking disheveled as usual. Chalk bag in front - all the cool alpinists are doing it. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyM6MGLADUuFGCS4kpSnzY4rExhB0qeHzecALx7iICOG0ZFsxHDj0aRp5xvHOHZy7vMzEfCIJwx6lOCLPWICz8SrAbko1QLkK_rhD5p64ExwRMzWsYfMNMKZk1m1Rsa_nHhYOFpIEyFkEl/s1600/IMG_1700.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyM6MGLADUuFGCS4kpSnzY4rExhB0qeHzecALx7iICOG0ZFsxHDj0aRp5xvHOHZy7vMzEfCIJwx6lOCLPWICz8SrAbko1QLkK_rhD5p64ExwRMzWsYfMNMKZk1m1Rsa_nHhYOFpIEyFkEl/s400/IMG_1700.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It's still light, and we're almost there, and it's not raining! Woohoo!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxFisTh7Q3V4utQwW79JBHDfchdV1X9G6urTIk6VMo8GQDTTx3upNrvNa0TLiIN60NgW7krOL_cJ8PJatGXWxEG5LzU2Ab-BEYsLzLwMWum691G6hLliYHC7mksj22oxaGX_sheoTd8MGn/s1600/IMG_1702.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxFisTh7Q3V4utQwW79JBHDfchdV1X9G6urTIk6VMo8GQDTTx3upNrvNa0TLiIN60NgW7krOL_cJ8PJatGXWxEG5LzU2Ab-BEYsLzLwMWum691G6hLliYHC7mksj22oxaGX_sheoTd8MGn/s400/IMG_1702.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">She's got most of her 20s and a lotta mountains stretched out in front of her. This girl is gonna have a lot of fun.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDm_XQbfvr7oOEcz1OuHR83RgF4CzGyChcfE8s7SdfTsomqdWoMKcRcXH9zaTkZXnNqOrLZXqv2HTTcTOgsopLkcLV50W5qB5m5vLmeA27BMBEBKfs3oV8JWPnJpLTy-_WMfwpCj0HOlS9/s1600/IMG_1705.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDm_XQbfvr7oOEcz1OuHR83RgF4CzGyChcfE8s7SdfTsomqdWoMKcRcXH9zaTkZXnNqOrLZXqv2HTTcTOgsopLkcLV50W5qB5m5vLmeA27BMBEBKfs3oV8JWPnJpLTy-_WMfwpCj0HOlS9/s400/IMG_1705.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking across central and South Howser from the North Howser descent.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimHA43Aorknm2jcFQLhroFqsOK40qSaNouD6IYFZL9N8vIzcRHyDer-Lg0TDXWjx5KDxoq29N_dBAzk6scq6A7Fky7XhyXm2fmrZOH7Zn9CgjbnNqBNBp0gwFySLqXhk8O1oL2Eo4JPiP4/s1600/IMG_1709.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimHA43Aorknm2jcFQLhroFqsOK40qSaNouD6IYFZL9N8vIzcRHyDer-Lg0TDXWjx5KDxoq29N_dBAzk6scq6A7Fky7XhyXm2fmrZOH7Zn9CgjbnNqBNBp0gwFySLqXhk8O1oL2Eo4JPiP4/s400/IMG_1709.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Even the 'schrund crossing wasn't too bad!</td></tr>
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Upon arrival at the Pigeon-Howser col we were greeted by smiles, hugs, wine and potato chips by my mountain guide friend Craig. After fortifying ourselves with Craig's generously offered treats, we continued down to be pampered more by Kate Rutherford, Mikey Schaefer and their friends who had flown in to East Creek and therefore had yummy food and drinks that they were kind enough to lavish on us in exchange for beta on our climb which they hoped to check out during their stay.<br />
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A heavy shower drove us back to our small tent for a good rest, and as I sunk into my thermarest and listened to the patter of drops on the tent I was grateful to not be hunkered somewhere on the North Howser under a flapping sil tarp. It had been a great day of climbing with Hannah: 19 hours camp to camp with many high quality pitches on mostly really good rock. I was tired but not as destroyed as some other climbing efforts in the past few years had left me. In all it felt like these previous adventures (super long days and less than perfect weather on giant granite walls in Greenland, intimidating glaciers and stormy epics in the Waddington Range, trying harder than I've ever tried when my body is tired on the Freerider and University Wall, and climbing in the dark on my Northern Lights - Freeway - Grandwall link up and at the 24 hours of Horseshoe Hell in Arkansas) had in some way prepared me for the North Howser adventure. As I drifted off I enjoyed that fleeting feeling, that as climbers we all sacrifice time, money and comfort to seek, of a long-held goal achieved.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKFboyA31q6ouW8_g-ToT3saO4q773pseuYHc2FWF_9TXqktSoKLYq8g8pe076JabnJMxVN4u1Ik5oRnLMdYowEoxFa1lsOaaVb2ZyX18WPjO4l_9RPi4MnVH8dBZnoybXnOP8fyJc8w3C/s1600/IMG_1713.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKFboyA31q6ouW8_g-ToT3saO4q773pseuYHc2FWF_9TXqktSoKLYq8g8pe076JabnJMxVN4u1Ik5oRnLMdYowEoxFa1lsOaaVb2ZyX18WPjO4l_9RPi4MnVH8dBZnoybXnOP8fyJc8w3C/s400/IMG_1713.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking smily in front of the Minaret after our big day. Thanks to Jimmy Chin for taking this one on my camera. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-F270SmUI0xdw1gQXrooR_SXSioySV6GAdDSrqqgzpNn096MmzEo213_w752XKSVZbBWHVKCmYw1fF_RyrCZ2NGq_pMtE6pfa8_eryMOcwh3GW-GN-1VpYQxJnUDih_oOHYsEWjsEJPSr/s1600/IMG_1724.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-F270SmUI0xdw1gQXrooR_SXSioySV6GAdDSrqqgzpNn096MmzEo213_w752XKSVZbBWHVKCmYw1fF_RyrCZ2NGq_pMtE6pfa8_eryMOcwh3GW-GN-1VpYQxJnUDih_oOHYsEWjsEJPSr/s400/IMG_1724.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Just a little trick I learned from my Dad. Beers in the creek. Oh. Yeah.<br />
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Jasminhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18106615510798115812noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4843724593150614779.post-43982368142875569722013-08-09T16:24:00.004-06:002013-08-09T16:44:23.480-06:00Climbing Mt. Assiniboine with my Dad<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">My Dad leaned on his trekking pole and sighed deeply, and I wondered if he might crumble like some of the chossy rock we'd come through on the most recent phase of our seemingly endless approach to mt Assiniboine. We had just completed the infamous Gmoser Highway and were finally within a few hundreds meters of the Hind Hut, but the 30km, 13 hr approach was taking its toll on my Dad. We do a trip together every few summers to celebrate his birthday - he just turned 62 and is super fit, but this kind of effort would tire anyone out.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3O-Cm-THqAVFdKLyxNHOaNMeWSBYT-iAIErOj3Gb6PwCLB8V1Iogma4xqxCLweB8IxAE796pArgzow9VcUTT0HDwscQ4xQZYVbF-dFtOsCUp4EjoGORZ0Y1t3BWRcVn-fvCW1K-XfSsb1/s1600/IMG_1454.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3O-Cm-THqAVFdKLyxNHOaNMeWSBYT-iAIErOj3Gb6PwCLB8V1Iogma4xqxCLweB8IxAE796pArgzow9VcUTT0HDwscQ4xQZYVbF-dFtOsCUp4EjoGORZ0Y1t3BWRcVn-fvCW1K-XfSsb1/s320/IMG_1454.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Enjoying the views on the mostly flat approach</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2aOZfoQNnZGn7yZCZ9JnQTJnWDDggP-WZ5e2yA1dL7zDJ9hAvbSq7-PbPvwmLZaQ6JaTYIOuMcAztjd__UUxPRK-lsWOB3VvYkCH84brHq8rLv1b0owVHu4Ujv-5CMIWj-OJOvHjWzeGg/s1600/ptarmigan.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="237" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2aOZfoQNnZGn7yZCZ9JnQTJnWDDggP-WZ5e2yA1dL7zDJ9hAvbSq7-PbPvwmLZaQ6JaTYIOuMcAztjd__UUxPRK-lsWOB3VvYkCH84brHq8rLv1b0owVHu4Ujv-5CMIWj-OJOvHjWzeGg/s320/ptarmigan.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">This juvenile ptarmigan posed for us while we rested</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Hazard of the hike in</td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCBf-u0kAeVkbjTiUyGJLFtyGE6_ka2sqgPRJOHc5xe6FhR621w1NV9FLWg0cTLvmPKK_Xko-kKvayzdCumkH5ktoa9G6ksd_htCC-fjpJLlxoX5tjZJGvLF-nEEadJIhEiHWZTIOuKlsd/s1600/IMG_1387.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCBf-u0kAeVkbjTiUyGJLFtyGE6_ka2sqgPRJOHc5xe6FhR621w1NV9FLWg0cTLvmPKK_Xko-kKvayzdCumkH5ktoa9G6ksd_htCC-fjpJLlxoX5tjZJGvLF-nEEadJIhEiHWZTIOuKlsd/s320/IMG_1387.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">So close yet so far, the view to Mt. Assiniboine from Lake Magog</td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpkUHrIJzRkc75U4RJ4MywWsD-IAnL99kbFzXDyQMSbw6hMJtxERpVp5JWzZmZ-sWxB9CHMqyZob4oq27AGfLIqWmzK_uwwOWfsfPlFE7ZCLhw2niGqVcHYZtWloxi7Cnj7SSEfZaNb7Kq/s1600/IMG_1391.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpkUHrIJzRkc75U4RJ4MywWsD-IAnL99kbFzXDyQMSbw6hMJtxERpVp5JWzZmZ-sWxB9CHMqyZob4oq27AGfLIqWmzK_uwwOWfsfPlFE7ZCLhw2niGqVcHYZtWloxi7Cnj7SSEfZaNb7Kq/s320/IMG_1391.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Cool yellow paintbrushes near Lake Magog</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I wondered if the refreshing cans of Kokanee he had treated us to when we made our way past Assiniboine Lodge were actually a bad idea. They certainly tasted good and took the edge off the prospect of continuing up to the hut from Lake Magog, but as the final phase of the day proved to be a bit longer and trickier than we had imagined, perhaps some serious super elite-athlete engineered endurance food and electrolyte beverages might have better prepared us.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">We stumbled into the hut and I got to work melting water and getting our dinner going while Dad chilled out. He only balked slightly at my announcement we were going to wake at 5AM for our summit bid on the North Ridge of Assiniboine the next morning.</span><br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTKW3jhjkdVfEn2MQK7eWnrKhHGgKBnEaeyVRTHypJms08CmKvldXx9Xv7jOP9s47mS56ItTS5Pp5phQK0nOvw1BhMmv3LfSMJGPQCKLfwXZQtcHcyu9w8iuAQTCS5ygWLYudsfnx1Dfbo/s1600/IMG_1437.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTKW3jhjkdVfEn2MQK7eWnrKhHGgKBnEaeyVRTHypJms08CmKvldXx9Xv7jOP9s47mS56ItTS5Pp5phQK0nOvw1BhMmv3LfSMJGPQCKLfwXZQtcHcyu9w8iuAQTCS5ygWLYudsfnx1Dfbo/s320/IMG_1437.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">The Hind Hut</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">We awoke to a perfect day and beautiful red light on the peaks as we left the hut. Temps were cool in the morning and we slowly but surely made our way up the 1000m ridge. Mostly mellow scrambling with the occasional fifth class pitch through steeper strata brought us to the final ridge and a broad summit where we enjoyed our lunch and relaxed in the sun. The views were incredible - the cold storm a few days prior that had left snow dusting the route had also cleared the air, providing us with unbelievable 365 degree vistas of mountains upon mountains upon mountains. A Peregrine falcon buzzed by and seracs rumbled on the glacier below, reminding us of what a wild place we were enjoying in pure windless comfort and solitude. The trip down was slow but relatively uneventful, with well equipped rappel stations and some loose but manageable scree and down scrambling.</span><br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJR7TqSyvePqV4heaFE-2_7o6i8xhXOaoFq927DIJfzBQpfFErV0K-v8ioqR1todrGrTm0su54uQbCGo6vcwycJbNF7Zi1vd-JFYGK1JoW_Uy7e-HlBR9oLDEtLTkPTSOj7tUoVQyor5Ku/s1600/IMG_1401.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJR7TqSyvePqV4heaFE-2_7o6i8xhXOaoFq927DIJfzBQpfFErV0K-v8ioqR1todrGrTm0su54uQbCGo6vcwycJbNF7Zi1vd-JFYGK1JoW_Uy7e-HlBR9oLDEtLTkPTSOj7tUoVQyor5Ku/s320/IMG_1401.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Perfect morning light on the mountain before our climb</td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQWnDVVkS9p7Lu8ljjJNWBU0e11onWWcQOu8sVJ5SX8ZpL5dL-7VAs2b3eMgquwLrbvASEKYUVXZzRv7-PcGB3HIlzoWC0HRg4le2UDHBczwekQGqYuDFUGLPtl0XCvxS54VY0zP9Z-pMi/s1600/IMG_1408.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQWnDVVkS9p7Lu8ljjJNWBU0e11onWWcQOu8sVJ5SX8ZpL5dL-7VAs2b3eMgquwLrbvASEKYUVXZzRv7-PcGB3HIlzoWC0HRg4le2UDHBczwekQGqYuDFUGLPtl0XCvxS54VY0zP9Z-pMi/s320/IMG_1408.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Starting out with beautiful light</td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWLndNv9gdauqYrDexlpph2mgsGOps0bEuHOvljqzqn2neLlFhyphenhyphenJILUKNu_32h2Ns6pMDmCuaKdY9OgTKEqJOBGYEilT3Wi_BkkGYGjZhWhMouqHuJN5_2ZyjVlnjRoGGjEhg4njr7p9fh/s1600/IMG_1414.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWLndNv9gdauqYrDexlpph2mgsGOps0bEuHOvljqzqn2neLlFhyphenhyphenJILUKNu_32h2Ns6pMDmCuaKdY9OgTKEqJOBGYEilT3Wi_BkkGYGjZhWhMouqHuJN5_2ZyjVlnjRoGGjEhg4njr7p9fh/s320/IMG_1414.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">On the way up!</td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjM_-NNCvxuUorLCk4T66pO16fGsVBbf7Y50G7o7Zs6YY_uZEv1-xuxOA4nEtRpNUM98ZvuR1wsszfCXpwyfQus5E5bEvdWUZTRXSYDbkKm8VCKlNQJ4UBRyLjS80y2EtV2oW_APXHFDM8K/s1600/IMG_1409.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjM_-NNCvxuUorLCk4T66pO16fGsVBbf7Y50G7o7Zs6YY_uZEv1-xuxOA4nEtRpNUM98ZvuR1wsszfCXpwyfQus5E5bEvdWUZTRXSYDbkKm8VCKlNQJ4UBRyLjS80y2EtV2oW_APXHFDM8K/s320/IMG_1409.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Getting higher!</td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOC8ouJjC9wFvfhkK-oFbIWu4i5wFLER_IB7tanV8g4txJa1PA1WtHnj3M5_cGsy0xKhVrtvBt2jrouSfP2TRakn5AbV0ZFWRuNCeh1RksX2iLKEk4jiFY1m7-w19w_ljVTyxqU-UU39FB/s1600/IMG_1421.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="183" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOC8ouJjC9wFvfhkK-oFbIWu4i5wFLER_IB7tanV8g4txJa1PA1WtHnj3M5_cGsy0xKhVrtvBt2jrouSfP2TRakn5AbV0ZFWRuNCeh1RksX2iLKEk4jiFY1m7-w19w_ljVTyxqU-UU39FB/s320/IMG_1421.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Chillin on top</td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiY-YPBPfAlMGyy9T1NGeR9G7Wq9KBIsgzv50pOrNXBV_XW_ftth0_zvAowoRrhxEeDsYFDS_KprOaCGfP5GFC_YgKG49LMCSB4vQ3B5XUCWyq-u7aa5wOfbIvrJ9f-ghT2EO8QFTvi36Yb/s1600/IMG_1427.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiY-YPBPfAlMGyy9T1NGeR9G7Wq9KBIsgzv50pOrNXBV_XW_ftth0_zvAowoRrhxEeDsYFDS_KprOaCGfP5GFC_YgKG49LMCSB4vQ3B5XUCWyq-u7aa5wOfbIvrJ9f-ghT2EO8QFTvi36Yb/s320/IMG_1427.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Summit selfie</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The next morning the weather was definitely deteriorating, so we convinced ourselves to reverse the long journey to the trailhead in one day, stopping at the lodge to visit some friends who work there after completing the Gmoser highway again - equally as spicy on the way down as it had been on the way up.</span><br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWuF-U6z8sfdNxQaxhBYzCjcY_uzYCX2DP_sV1eDeh4YcY_YmPoBZzL8ZEUXvtUPoaE6RiUSuGrYn6HSmz34_vWWhf7TkygdU36gcWpGxAIh-CpYnFS_ceTp_miLVb5OgfxbFg95CRlqep/s1600/IMG_1439.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWuF-U6z8sfdNxQaxhBYzCjcY_uzYCX2DP_sV1eDeh4YcY_YmPoBZzL8ZEUXvtUPoaE6RiUSuGrYn6HSmz34_vWWhf7TkygdU36gcWpGxAIh-CpYnFS_ceTp_miLVb5OgfxbFg95CRlqep/s320/IMG_1439.jpg" width="223" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">We climbed this thing!</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The 30km slog out was definitely a grind, and my pack left painful, swollen bruises on my hips. Luckily for me my Dad is one of my favorite people to chat with, so the walk sailed by with us sharing stories about our travels and dreams for the future.</span><br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdtzW-g8xKx-Qk1wjgJEg0-q4rw2Cgx44GCQjKJJ3xCIS0NLjAjrqZcYeITWm2JpLs6E9uB_HR310BDKTnVoUmMOKKRJ9plbSONiroBVErbj9QCBj-e2lSot6G2JwIShMYaSTND0ae8eny/s1600/IMG_1446.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdtzW-g8xKx-Qk1wjgJEg0-q4rw2Cgx44GCQjKJJ3xCIS0NLjAjrqZcYeITWm2JpLs6E9uB_HR310BDKTnVoUmMOKKRJ9plbSONiroBVErbj9QCBj-e2lSot6G2JwIShMYaSTND0ae8eny/s320/IMG_1446.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Beautiful columbines </td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirUPcQWwL_M8RRnvckc7t0tiecB1McnQB2GcdkrMos_MzeXfJs17rFECQi0sNw1UUafgXNrL12wwZaejqqjDQswcU0kEAe-UImHvStfmKHQv6KxN7forpqPP3YVMilQzqdZ_4WtFIG2RqI/s1600/IMG_1449.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="221" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirUPcQWwL_M8RRnvckc7t0tiecB1McnQB2GcdkrMos_MzeXfJs17rFECQi0sNw1UUafgXNrL12wwZaejqqjDQswcU0kEAe-UImHvStfmKHQv6KxN7forpqPP3YVMilQzqdZ_4WtFIG2RqI/s320/IMG_1449.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">This Hoary Marmot stopped to say hi when my Dad whistled at him</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">When my Dad's VW van finally came into view in the parking lot, he opened the door and pulled an ice cold 6 pack from fridge and cracked one for each of us. We clinked cans and took long swigs and congratulated each other on a great adventure. I have been so lucky to travel all over the world to climb and go on exotic adventures from Italy to Greenland. I've ridden in helicopters to get to remote regions that cost many thousands of dollars and weeks of preparation to visit. But this trip with my Dad required only one day of perfect weather, two pairs of legs that were willing to go the distance, and a Westfalia fridge full of cold ones to celebrate a successful mission. And it was the best climb of my summer so far.</span><br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVcTNZGgsfdt1rnheSU7c39yQV6EDSzxUT8SK9XRAUeOZBAKKgVkUN8sN0qAS4RQDoUfqlZUGpGYtoytGIU1sXood82rYxAnqW4tdb-e48mgp-Wq3zE2LUyyQI4BpZP8RAYrmvyiYNukY8/s1600/IMG_1456.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVcTNZGgsfdt1rnheSU7c39yQV6EDSzxUT8SK9XRAUeOZBAKKgVkUN8sN0qAS4RQDoUfqlZUGpGYtoytGIU1sXood82rYxAnqW4tdb-e48mgp-Wq3zE2LUyyQI4BpZP8RAYrmvyiYNukY8/s320/IMG_1456.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">NOTHING tastes better than this</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span>Jasminhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18106615510798115812noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4843724593150614779.post-49370057935043075072013-06-24T20:16:00.000-06:002013-06-24T20:16:31.394-06:00Scramblin' around the Sierras with Spoodle and Beater<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I have known Rich Wheater (AKA the Beater) and Senja Palonen (AKA the Spoodle) since my very first summer of rock climbing in Squamish. We were introduced by a mutual friend one morning at Starbucks (back then everyone hung out there to find a climbing partner in the morning) and they invited me to join them on a mission to climb Sunblessed on the backside of the Chief. Sunblessed was reputed to have a five star second pitch of 5.10a crack climbing. Rich and Senja were kind enough to let me, a climber of a mere few months, lead this amazing pitch using their rack, and it was one of the most memorable days my first climbing season. </div>
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Since that summer day in Squamish over 12 years ago I have shared numerous climbing adventures with Rich and Senja. Wherever Rich and Senja are you will also find lots of laughing, great food, plentiful cocktails and great stoke for climbing, so generally I like to be where they are. I have chased them down in Thailand, Red Rocks, American Fork, Indian Creek, Yosemite, Skaha, Horne Lake and many crags in between. They may not be the first people to roll out of bed in the morning, but they are almost always the last ones to leave the crag in the afternoon. Don't be fooled by their casual demeanour, these two get shit done. Senja holds down a real job in the city and prances up Squamish testpieces like The Shadow on the weekends. Rich is an extremely accomplished adventure photographer. They both trail run and mountainbike like fiends. </div>
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Getting invited to join them for a week of fun in the Sierras was a perfect chance to escape the June blahs in Squamish and although we didn't get after anything really hard, we certainly kept busy and enjoyed some extremely classic cold beers, margaritas, gourmet burritos... oh and a few SPECTACULAR Sierra granite routes. </div>
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Objective #1: Matthes Crest</div>
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This climb is basically a hike to a long horizontal scramble back to a hike. The main appeal is the amazing geometry of the feature you are climbing along. The highlight of the route was definitely the overhanging rock cornice on the final section, which is much wilder than my photos indicate.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Morning light on Budd Lake, en route to Matthes Crest. </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Beater and Spoodle and a whole lotta Sierra air </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Senja spies out her route options on the Matthes Crest. </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Top of the North Summit - Woop!</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Although many parties descend off the North Summit, we chose to continue along the ridge for the full experience. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Xrv98IWOPTw/UcjQOZXbISI/AAAAAAAACb0/WWsDTylyvQc/s1600/IMG_1070.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Xrv98IWOPTw/UcjQOZXbISI/AAAAAAAACb0/WWsDTylyvQc/s400/IMG_1070.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And good thing we did, otherwise we would have missed this rock cornice which was the coolest part!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-BGUy33JFN6g/UcjQPixRf1I/AAAAAAAACcA/Cyz0hjJCOZg/s1600/IMG_1071.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-BGUy33JFN6g/UcjQPixRf1I/AAAAAAAACcA/Cyz0hjJCOZg/s400/IMG_1071.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">As far as I am concerned, nothing beats a fun day of scrambling on great rock in a setting like this!</td></tr>
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Objective #2: Positive Vibrations on the Incredible Hulk</div>
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Climbing on the Incredible Hulk has been on my hit list for years. After climbing it himself, Evan described Positive Vibes as being like "doing the Grand Wall in the alpine." How could I not want to do that??? I don't know if I'd use quite that analogy. The Hulk has a deliciously more alpine feel than the Chief (maybe because it's at 10,000' and has a 2.5 hour approach?). </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Incredible hulk imitations at the start of the approach. </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Beautiful flowers on the approach. </td></tr>
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It was a dream to finally get to play on this inspiring and gorgeous hunk of rock. We hiked in late the day after climbing Matthes Crest with enough supplies to stay for a few days. Senja and I started off by climbing Positive Vibes. It was a stellar route and a super fun day. Most of the climbing was around 5.9 or 5.10, with two distinct sections of 5.11-. The pitches were long and the biggest challenge was staying warm and relaxed with the strong winds blowing all day. Even when the sun hit us I needed to keep on all my layers (capilene long johns under my climbing pants, a tank, a merino tshirt, an R1 fleece and a nano puff hoody). </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SdwCjpmvpzE/UcjQIK-Uq3I/AAAAAAAACaw/J9erKafMtxI/s1600/IMG_5342.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SdwCjpmvpzE/UcjQIK-Uq3I/AAAAAAAACaw/J9erKafMtxI/s400/IMG_5342.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">First night at our cosy camp. Senja Palonen photo. </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">The first 5.11a move of the route is on the third pitch. A technical step-across move. Senja Palonen photo. </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Senja follows the 6th pitch, a long one with the other 5.11a crux right at the end.</td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1QlztUCBlPU/UcjQTh3EF1I/AAAAAAAACco/cRks4l8zS-0/s1600/IMG_1149.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1QlztUCBlPU/UcjQTh3EF1I/AAAAAAAACco/cRks4l8zS-0/s400/IMG_1149.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">The amazing crack riddled headwall of the 7th pitch. The biggest challenge proved figuring out which splitter to follow! When in doubt, go straight up the middle.</td></tr>
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The Hulk is pretty classic in the sense that when the hard climbing is over, you are not even close to the summit. This sections is especially time consuming when it's your first time up the route. There is a fair bit of routefinding and 4th or easy 5th manuvering to get to the final two 5.8 pitches to the summit. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-95z-LpNb7PA/UcjQJf6AuFI/AAAAAAAACa4/2MmECzruBAQ/s1600/IMG_5365.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-95z-LpNb7PA/UcjQJf6AuFI/AAAAAAAACa4/2MmECzruBAQ/s400/IMG_5365.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Coiling up the rope on the top of the 8th pitch for some simul climbing. Senja Palonen photo. </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sun, moon and spires. </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Summit selfie. Can you see my soul glowing? It is. I love this shit!</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Senja blissing out on the summit. You can tell the wind died down because she actually took off her hoods. </td></tr>
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Although we had intended to stay and climb longer in the Hulk, the cold wind had really taken it out of us, so after a restful bivi and a leisurely morning we decided to hike out and seek some more sheltered digs for a few days.<br />
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Objective #3: Speed of Life and cragging at Tioga Crag<br />
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Thumbing through the guidebook and perusing Mountain Project kept revealing a super-starred route called Speed of Life. It's only 2 pitches and has a steep 45 minute approach. Not such a great suffering to sending ratio, but I was keen to check out the second pitch which is an 5.11b overhanging wide hands to fingers splitter. When I opened the van door at the parking area it was very nearly ripped off. The winds were howling from the west and our only hope was that the northeast facing wall would be sheltered. We slogged uphill and forged a mini-schrund to access the base. Immaculate lazer cut granite cracks lead skyward. It looked amazing and was sheltered (enough) and almost warm (enough). I don't have any pics of the route, but Rich shot the second pitch so at some point I may have a few shots to share. We capped off the day with a few pitches of quality sport climbing at the Tioga Cliff.<br />
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Objective #4: Third Pillar of Dana<br />
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Senja needed a rest day and had already climbed this route with another friend earlier on the trip, so Rich and I embarked on a mission to climb this Sierra classic. The winds were even stronger than the day before, but once again we were banking on shelter on the east facing route.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fully bundled up on the approach to the Third Pillar of Dana. Rich Wheater photo. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tRWlcaIQqsQ/UcjQWzecFWI/AAAAAAAACdY/QbOwrzqIy8A/s1600/IMG_1200.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tRWlcaIQqsQ/UcjQWzecFWI/AAAAAAAACdY/QbOwrzqIy8A/s400/IMG_1200.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nice views of Mono Lake. Not a bad hunk o' granite in the foreground. </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rich spies out our descent to the start of the route. </td></tr>
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The Third Pillar of Dana approach is rather round about in the sense that you hike up to a plateau, cross the plateau and then descend down to the base of the route, climb out, hike back across the plateau and then descend back down the other side. Whew, even typing that sentence made me tired! The approach is actually really chill overall, with great terrain for walking and lots of views of mountains and gorgeous flora to keep you occupied should your climbing partner be an overcaffeinated, trail running, mountain goat of a man. All was going great on the final descent to the base of the route, we had found an easy way through some more exposed 3rd and 4th class terrain at the top and were cruising in some slightly loose but easy going mixed talus and scree. The last thing I remember (this is true!) was Rich joyfully uttering the words, "against all odds Beater and Spazzmine (that's his nickname for me) send the Third Pillar of Dana". Suddenly a rock shifted underfoot and my world was flipped upside down and then back rightside up and then upside down again. I was literally out of control-ragdoll-cartwheel tumbling down the gully. I came to a stop after two cartwheels and sat up dazed. Rich yelled "holy shit Jas are you OK?". I managed to get out a feeble "yes" and began to give myself a bit of a head to toe. I had a bad feeling about what might lie beneath a big tear in the shin area of my pants, but it was nothing but a bad scrape. I can still hardly believe I escaped from what was certainly my worst alpine tumble ever with only a few bruises and a sore shoulder. Given the terrain it could have been much worse.<br />
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We continued down the descent. I moved a bit slower, still reeling from a big dose of adrenaline. Luckily the high quality of the climb cured my jitters almost instantly.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CGo8BM4rEPs/UcjSAk5U5OI/AAAAAAAACfE/QMN64wc9Abw/s1600/IMG_5382.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CGo8BM4rEPs/UcjSAk5U5OI/AAAAAAAACfE/QMN64wc9Abw/s400/IMG_5382.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Approaching the base of the Third Pillar of Dana. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Px0JlYnyWzo/UcjQZOq1kvI/AAAAAAAACd0/CobS-kve79w/s1600/IMG_1207.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Px0JlYnyWzo/UcjQZOq1kvI/AAAAAAAACd0/CobS-kve79w/s400/IMG_1207.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rich trying to kill me on this guillotine of rock that hangs straight above the belay. </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Enjoying some absolutely impeccable granite of the last pitch.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rich kicking up his heels with joy on the last pitch. Such an awesome route!</td></tr>
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Objective #6: Pull with my arms more, push with my legs less (a day of cragging at Lover's Leap)<br />
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After so much hiking and minimally challenging climbing we were all worried our arm muscles might be atrophying. A day of harder cragging was in order, and it would set us up well to deliver me to my flight home to Squamish from Reno. We spent a lovely day of climbing amazingly featured rock at Lover's Leap. My shoulder was pretty sore from my tumble, so only did a few pitches. I loved all of them and I can't wait to go back for more!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rich starts up Tombstone Terror, an awesome 5.10+ dihedral. </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Senja cranks up R.I.P., a cool and difficult 5.11+ face. </td></tr>
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It was an action packed week of adventure with Beater and Spoodle in California. I didn't work on my tan as much as I would have liked due to the windy conditions, but I certainly felt like I was in the mountains. Being welcomed along on this trip by Rich and Senja was yet another reminder that the community I have found through climbing is by far the greatest gift this crazy sport has tossed my way.<br />
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Jasminhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18106615510798115812noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4843724593150614779.post-84235290125546194262013-05-07T22:22:00.000-06:002013-05-07T22:25:04.647-06:00Summer 2013 Rock ProgramsWinter went by in a blur. No skiing blog posts for me this winter for a variety of reasons, but don't you worry, there was over-the-head powder, flowy carving, playful airs, amazing views, black nights covered in piercing stars, belly laughs, unbelievably delicious sandwiches enjoyed while perched on ridge tops, lodge dance parties and all the other elements that make my busy winter job so worthwhile.<br />
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I intend to make a post about a few of the winter's highlights, but in the meantime want to get the word out about a few rock programs I am running this summer and am really excited about.<br />
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June 22-23: Crack Technique Weekend. 2 days, Squamish granite, finger tips to chimneys and everything in between. Get dialed before the summer is in full swing. $300 for the two day clinic.<br />
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Lydia Zamorano and I had so much fun running a women's climbing and yoga weekend last year that we are running two similar programs this August.<br />
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August 10-11 will be in Lake Louise on beautiful quartzite, with yoga held a short distance from the crags at the Lake Louise Hostel.<br />
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August 17-18 will be in Squamish on perfect granite, with yoga in The Yoga Studio.<br />
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In addition, I will be offering private guiding and customized courses on request. Drop me an email at jasmincaton@gmail.com to chat about your climbing goals and we can set something up. </div>
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<br />Jasminhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18106615510798115812noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4843724593150614779.post-7597076738916635272012-11-26T08:00:00.000-07:002012-11-26T10:14:12.253-07:00The Big Stone with the Big Guy<div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">The Big Stone and The Big Guy</td></tr>
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It is day 1 on Freerider. I am attempting this 35 pitch free route on El Cap with my husband Evan. Things are going well so far. I have successfully sent the 5.11 down climb and traverse into the Hollow Flake, a 5.8 offwidth. The bottom of the offwidth goes smoothly, but as I climb higher , the #6 BD Camalot that I am walking with me no longer fits and I am looking at my rope going sideways for 50'. No problem. It's 5.8. I can just dig my body in a little deeper, use my own flesh as protection. Now I am dug in so deep I can't move upwards. I am sweating, it is really hot. I loosen myself from the gaping crack to smear and scrape flesh as I scrabble a few inches summitward. Knees are bleeding. Elbows are bleeding. I may or may not bellow with effort (OK I do... ungirlishly, primally, I only wish I could forget). Evan calls up from the belay, wants to know how it's going. I may or may not have moved in the last 15 minutes. I discover a technique that involves pinching the flake between my thighs. It really hurts my pubic bone but I do it anyway. I just want to be done. I am really hating this. I am covered in dried tears and blood. I pull onto the ledge, haul the pack, put Evan on belay. No celebrating this send. It is 5.8 and the first offwidth of the Freerider. Things are not looking good.<br />
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Thoughts of THE MONSTER threaten to trundle my calm over the brink. THE MONSTER is a 5.11 offwidth looming a few pitches above us and is the only hard pitch we haven't sussed out on TR. I try to focus on the pitches at hand. All 5.10 and easily dispatched, before you know it we are at THE MONSTER. We have decided for fairness that we would each lead a section of THE MONSTER, utilizing the optional bolted belay half way up it to tag each other out. Evan gets the first pitch and floats it, even though he's more nauseous with nerves than I've ever seen him. I'm so proud watching him that it hurts. Soon enough I'm hurting in a much less enjoyable way as I follow the pitch. Cool and pumpy underclings traverse you into the crack and then it's chickenwings galore, armbars for dessert. No fancy stacks. No pretty butterflies. No jamming your knee in this gaping maw. I shimmy up, try to wedge my butt in. It sticks enough. I reach the belay happy and bleeding and desperately grateful for my Anasazi Velcro Hi-tops protecting my ankle bones and a neoprene knee pad my friend Jesse Huey donated for our ascent. Now it is my turn. There are moments of progress. A tough spot slows me down and I seem to be climbing in circles: wiggle up, slide down, wiggle up, slide down. I swear I am greasing the inside of the crack with sweat and blood. I focus on the stance rest above me and somehow get there. Meters above, I am stopped in my tracks. I climb up, desperately, determinedly, but as soon as I stop struggling my body slithers back down the crack. I am not scared but I CAN NOT seem to get past this spot. After trying and trying I give up. Pull on gear. Get to the top and belay Evan up. He struggles on TR but sends. We do the final pitch to The Alcove, the ledge where we will stay for the next 3 nights while we climb the rest of the route. I am exhausted and bonking. My obsession with drinking water eclipses any disappointment I have in myself. I am so thirsty, so done. Food helps and I sleep like a log. Early the next morning I go back down and reclimb the second pitch of the Monster by headlamp. The cool temps, rested muscles and a pair of Patagonia stretchy corduroy pants seem to help. It doesn't feel easy but it feels solid. We can move upwards.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Following Evan up the first half of the Monster, wishing my knees were fatter or my ass was skinnier. </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">First night at the Alcove, before food and water raised my spirits.</td></tr>
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If I included every struggle, every tear, every success and failure of our journey up Freerider this would be a really long, really boring, really humiliating post. This adventure had all the elements that makes climbing an El Cap route such an amazing experience: sleeping on the edge of a 2000' drop, shitting into a bag mere meters away from your partner while they try to focus on something else, anything else, wearing your harness for days on end and slowly becoming immune to exposure. The climbing on the route (even the offwidths) is super high-quality and Evan and I found ourselves to be a great team. I excelled on the technical slab and flared crack pitches, Evan charged on the big moves and wide cracks, and we both revelled in the sections of crack-climber's dream of steep, exposed cracks way off the deck. When one of us was struggling, the other took the lead and we both inspired the other to try harder at various points during the climb.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sweaty chickenwings on the Monster and desperate palm pressing on the Teflon Corner leaves it's mark. </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Modelling my El Cap(ilene) leisure suit for Walker and Elliot at the Alcove. We got to share lots of laughs with these two guys who were climbing the route at the same time. </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Elliot and Waker brought travel scrabble, so Evan and I had a match at the Alcove. For a guy who favours cell phone video games over books he sure can lay down a mean scrabble turn. </td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Every evening this magic orange glow would hit El Cap right before dark.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Life on a ledge. </td></tr>
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After a month of not climbing before I headed to the valley, my ambitions for sending Freerider were pretty low. I was psyched for the experience of climbing on El Cap but intimidated enough by the wide cracks and valley climbing in general that I was unattached to the outcome. When we began our efforts to climb the route, which began days before starting up the climb, I was truly relishing the experience of it. It felt great to get a cardio workout hiking to the top of El Cap with a heavy pack to bring food and water we needed for the climb to the Alcove. Sleeping in the warm California air on the granite slabs up there with no one around and a sky full of stars was unbelievably perfect.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hiking food and water to the top of El Cap was actually really fun (when I was high on exercise induced endorphins) and an awesome workout (oh great, my legs muscles grew)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7sxMsr_2lHg/UKl-U6Sp06I/AAAAAAAACTE/aF8rWRkYPQA/s1600/20121030_164209.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7sxMsr_2lHg/UKl-U6Sp06I/AAAAAAAACTE/aF8rWRkYPQA/s400/20121030_164209.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My Scotty Burke Crack (a 5.10 offwidth near the top) practice outfit. </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pretty grand place for a late-evening toprope session (almost as good as Penny Lane in the Smoke Bluffs)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iH-CNisNPDY/UKl_Zsnr6XI/AAAAAAAACTg/TJD-IyiWVnA/s1600/IMG_2036.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="298" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iH-CNisNPDY/UKl_Zsnr6XI/AAAAAAAACTg/TJD-IyiWVnA/s400/IMG_2036.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hanging out on top of El Cap while we sussed out the upper part of the route was blissful - more like being in the Bugaboos than Yosemite! </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Full moon, campfire, suddenly this is seeming like a "REAL" vacation!</td></tr>
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Our motto for our time in the valley was "one day at a time", and once we began up Freerider it morphed into "one pitch at a time". After a hectic and stressful month of work at our backcountry lodge we were determined to have fun and not let climbing ambitions, ego or bickering get in the way of what we desperately needed - some fresh air, hard exercise and pure fun together. We got what we needed and we were overall pretty happy with how we climbed too, which was a bonus. I would love to do the route in better style - after we fell leading the crux pitch and one other pitch on the route we both toproped them clean but things didn't work out for us to get back on them and lead them clean. I really want a chance to get back on the route and do it again in a few less days and in better style, but as a great poet once said, "you can't always get what you want, but if you try sometimes, you get what you need". I definitely got what I needed out of my time on El Cap with Evan this fall. When we pulled our bruised and tired bodies over the rim at around 1PM on day 4, we snapped a couple of pics and just sat there for a good 20 minutes. As we snacked and watched the ravens play in the wind I was stunned by gratitude for the amazing life I have and the fact I can share adventures with someone who simultaneously pushes and supports me. All too soon it was time to begin the huge rappel back down El Cap to collect our bivi gear and empty water bottles. As I dropped over the edge I had the distinct feeling that I wasn't going to be staying away from the top of El Cap for long.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the top! We are REALLY PSYCHED! </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-CZnRdBgSTSs/UKl_gZju2eI/AAAAAAAACU4/qSZ6KJMWOMc/s1600/IMG_2115.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-CZnRdBgSTSs/UKl_gZju2eI/AAAAAAAACU4/qSZ6KJMWOMc/s400/IMG_2115.jpg" width="298" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sorting gear and dumping the poop tube... it's all a part of the Big Wall fun!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Jasminhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18106615510798115812noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4843724593150614779.post-72394040743579087842012-11-13T12:33:00.002-07:002012-11-13T12:38:13.049-07:00Thoughts of winter creeping in...My friends and fellow Squamish residents Tobin Seagel and Chris Christie visited us at <a href="http://www.vmt.ca/">Valhalla Mountain Touring</a> for some turns last January. Tobin is a rippin' skier and Chris is a talented outdoor adventure photographer, and neither of them let the fact that they have real jobs get in the way.<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-E47rmYUvtNo/UKKhEQmi64I/AAAAAAAACSY/PaYlwZvvAok/s1600/120113_Valhalla-1372+copy_1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="265" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-E47rmYUvtNo/UKKhEQmi64I/AAAAAAAACSY/PaYlwZvvAok/s400/120113_Valhalla-1372+copy_1.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Giving Tobin the tour of my winter back yard. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Tobin wrote an article about his time with us... read it here:<br />
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<a href="http://www.doglotion.com/essays/real-deal-valhalla-mountain-touring">http://www.doglotion.com/essays/real-deal-valhalla-mountain-touring</a>Jasminhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18106615510798115812noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4843724593150614779.post-69462899212669231832012-10-05T16:27:00.001-06:002012-10-05T16:27:36.455-06:00Squamish linkup and peeing like a girlI have been working with <a href="http://innate-gear.com/">Innate Gear</a> lately. They make some great clean and functionally designed products that make life for the vagabond climber/guide much easier. I especially love their Caravan Compartments, Cha thermoses and Mentor Organizer Sacs. The Doppio mug makes a great, classy, easy to clean and unbreakable wine glass for on the road consumption.<br />
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I just finished a blog post for the Innate Gear blog about a big day of climbing I had in Squamish a few weeks ago. Check it out:<br />
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<a href="http://www.innate-gear.com/blog/a-joyful-howl-into-the-starry-night">http://www.innate-gear.com/blog/a-joyful-howl-into-the-starry-night</a>Jasminhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18106615510798115812noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4843724593150614779.post-6615811446941738242012-09-04T19:20:00.000-06:002012-09-04T19:41:04.242-06:00Dropping prunes in the Wadd<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<tr><td><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qCK7W5xYEd4/UEE0A4EklRI/AAAAAAAACR4/RWsYBsdnEbo/s1600/waddington.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="246" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qCK7W5xYEd4/UEE0A4EklRI/AAAAAAAACR4/RWsYBsdnEbo/s400/waddington.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Sunrise on Mt. Waddington</td></tr>
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“Hey Jas, are you going to drop your prunes here?” I did a
double take… how did Chris know I had been counting down the steps until we
were off the glacier so I could untie from the rope and dash away to the broken
talus to relieve myself. And the more important question: why should he care?
Did he want to take an alpine shitting lifestyle shot? Come on, I thought
grumpily, this is taking the pose-down thing WAY too far! I took a deep breath
and explained that I was going to head behind some rocks before his quizzical
expression prompted my realization that he was asking where I was going to
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Chris Christie, adventure photographer and Vancouver fireman
extraordinaire had abandoned the comforts of Squamish with it’s cheap and
delicious sushi, flat surfaces to sleep on and cool lakes to dip in for two
weeks of lumpy tent sites, crevasse dodging on a treacherous glacier and so
much estrogen that I wouldn’t be surprised if Tiedemann Creek was running red
by the time we left the range. Chris had
opted to join Squamish climbers Sarah Hart, Kinley Aitken and myself, Jasmin
Caton on our trip to the Waddington Range as team photographer. By the end of
the trip Chris had seen a lot. The things he might have expected –laughter,
sunbathing, reading Vogue Magazine, boulder-top dance parties and some other
things he might not have – tears, farting, shitting in close quarters at a
tight bivi spot, verbal promises to quit alpine climbing forever in favor of
returning home to have babies. Let’s just say Chris may never be the same. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Vz42fvT7YL8/UEEzuVVC2wI/AAAAAAAACQI/3l2eR4spCRA/s1600/heli.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Vz42fvT7YL8/UEEzuVVC2wI/AAAAAAAACQI/3l2eR4spCRA/s400/heli.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Probably the fullest heli I have ever been in.<br />
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<tr><td><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ap7vukNU3qs/UEEzvbTIa_I/AAAAAAAACQQ/kWvUT9tdrC8/s1600/kicks.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ap7vukNU3qs/UEEzvbTIa_I/AAAAAAAACQQ/kWvUT9tdrC8/s400/kicks.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Basecamp kicks enjoying the view from Sunny Knob.<br />
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<tr><td><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-d5IWuSL0o1c/UEEzy3jRIaI/AAAAAAAACQg/ieoGl4VPajg/s1600/kinley.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="312" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-d5IWuSL0o1c/UEEzy3jRIaI/AAAAAAAACQg/ieoGl4VPajg/s400/kinley.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Bikini season wasn't waiting until we got home to Squamish... Kinley had to stay on top of her tan!<br />
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The first tears of the trip were mine. I admit it freely. We
had flown in late in the evening, set up camp at Sunny Knob, a rocky ridge like
feature a few hundred meters above the Tiedemann Glacier sandwiched
between two active serac fall zones. The unsettling crashing at intervals
throughout the night kept my dreams full of landslides and avalanches. On our
first morning, Sarah, Kinley and I went on a glacier walk reconnaissance up the
Tiedemann Glacier, feeling smaller and more squishable with each step as
Waddington, Combatant, Tiedemann and Asperity towered above us. A huge and
somewhat fresh looking avalanche deposit had covered most of the upper reaches
of the glacier and the roars of repeated serac falls off Waddington kept my
heart in my throat as we wandered upwards, trying to get a look at some of our
possible objectives. Suddenly, a huge roar came from the direction of
Waddington and a massive powdercloud raced down the face. I was terrified and
began backing away from the mountain, even as logic told me that we were likely
safe where we were, and if we weren’t, running wouldn’t do me much good. As the
dust settled, tears ran down my face as I wondered why the hell I left the
relatively safe and fun playground of Squamish for this scary and intimidating
venue. I didn’t necessarily feel like I was in over my head, just that my head
wasn’t into these kinds of hazards. <o:p></o:p></div>
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After a few warm-up routes on Tiedemann Tower and Claw peak,
we were ready for our main objective. We hoped to climb a new route on The
Grand Cappuccino. Naturally, being coffee fiends, we were drawn to the name of
this 3300m spire, but the lack of serac fall threatening its vicinity, and the
fine-looking steep headwall comprising the east face made this objective even
more tempting than an expertly poured, extra foamy, dark-chocolate sprinkled,
biscotti accompanied beverage. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PRK7HgGyynU/UEEzs3BfOEI/AAAAAAAACP4/OBc86zWSA_Q/s1600/glacier-dawn.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PRK7HgGyynU/UEEzs3BfOEI/AAAAAAAACP4/OBc86zWSA_Q/s400/glacier-dawn.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Sarah and Kinley in the early morning en route to Tiedemann Tower, Combatant Col in the background</td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-q03iCVVnBPM/UEEz9A1sD3I/AAAAAAAACRo/RdfGpWZCnT0/s1600/tiedemann1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="290" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-q03iCVVnBPM/UEEz9A1sD3I/AAAAAAAACRo/RdfGpWZCnT0/s400/tiedemann1.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Kinley and Sarah soloing on the bottom of Tiedemann Tower<br />
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<tr><td><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-To8dTG1Hy4g/UEEz_fqgC6I/AAAAAAAACRw/43jDn7SnNeo/s1600/tiedemann2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-To8dTG1Hy4g/UEEz_fqgC6I/AAAAAAAACRw/43jDn7SnNeo/s400/tiedemann2.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Climbing in tanks on Tiedemann Tower, Mt. Waddinton behind</td></tr>
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The intent was to climb Serra Two (3605m) via it’s 1500m
South Ridge (TD 5.9 45<b><span style="font-family: 'Lucida Grande';">°</span></b>) but to travel
with enough gear to stop partway up and attempt a new route on the Grand
Cappuccino, which branches off of the south ridge of Serra Two just over half
way up. We convinced Chris to join us, thinking he could chill at our bivi and
possibly even take photos while we climbed the Grand Cappuccino. <o:p></o:p></div>
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On our first day we covered 1000m of ground on rock and
snow, with some tricky sections of loose rock and deep snow wallowing
interspersed with sections of beautiful rock climbing. As we climbed evidence
of a “dirty high” was mounting. Before you get too excited, I should explain
there were no impure drugs or sexual behavior involved. “Dirty high” is a
legitimate meteorological term for “a high pressure that has clouds and/or
precipitation within its domain”. Optimists that we are, we kept climbing up
despite the lenticulars, mares tails and other ominous cloud forms building in
the sky.We bivied in an unsavory jumble of blocks, with the Grand Cappuccino
towering above us, and awoke to a nightmarish sight of fresh snow coating
everything, and no sign of improving weather. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7unVyGPZa0A/UEEz5AtuElI/AAAAAAAACRI/awxflprgtnA/s1600/sarah-bivi.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7unVyGPZa0A/UEEz5AtuElI/AAAAAAAACRI/awxflprgtnA/s400/sarah-bivi.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Sarah looking thrilled at the snowy state of things.<br />
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<tr><td><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-io7eazVtO4A/UEEx2tZEnEI/AAAAAAAACPw/hdQcnPHJOco/s1600/chris-bivi.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-io7eazVtO4A/UEEx2tZEnEI/AAAAAAAACPw/hdQcnPHJOco/s400/chris-bivi.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Chris Christie, revelling in the glamour of being an adventure photographer<br />
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<tr><td><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cepxW7BQBKg/UEEz07WhISI/AAAAAAAACQo/m4TlfXKvCmE/s1600/kinleybivi.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cepxW7BQBKg/UEEz07WhISI/AAAAAAAACQo/m4TlfXKvCmE/s400/kinleybivi.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Where's the pink bikini and Vogue magazine now?</td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-AkEdX82PG4k/UEEz7c-430I/AAAAAAAACRg/tD1fpIm4mXk/s1600/teambivi.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-AkEdX82PG4k/UEEz7c-430I/AAAAAAAACRg/tD1fpIm4mXk/s400/teambivi.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">The team, mid chew, getting packed up to go climbing. </td></tr>
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So began a truly epic day in the mountains. At least to my Squamish softie, wimpy girl standards. I am sure that all you real alpinists out there who plunge your bare hands into snow before ice climbing and deprive yourself of water and food so your body gets used to starving on multiday sufferfests would not even put this into the mini-epic category. It's true, I didn't lose any limbs, not even the tiniest tip of my nose succumbed to frostbite, I didn't run out of oxygen and become drunkenly disoriented, and I didn't have to drag my broken carcass out of a crevasse and down the mountain alone. But there was some thigh deep snow wallowing up a 45 degree slope, slippery wet-lichen encrusted
rock climbing up to 5.9, and frozen fingers and toes as the snow continued to
fall. My personal low point of the day was when I led up a steep and burly
crack that dead-ended. I slung a horn and lowered down, but the rope wouldn’t
pull. Rookie move! I jumared up, reset the anchor to a better position, rapped down,
pulled the rope easily but it fell into a crack and got stuck. I climbed up for
a third time, freed the stuck rope and began down climbing but the rope I was
getting belayed on jammed in a crack and I had to solo down to free it. Cursing a
blue streak and frustrated that my hour of effort had progressed us exactly
nowhere, I was bumped to the back of the bus so Kinley and Sarah could have
their fun on the sharp end.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9NYaubQVmbw/UEEzyNvrCvI/AAAAAAAACQY/0mdMqNrJ8LQ/s1600/kinley-phantom.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9NYaubQVmbw/UEEzyNvrCvI/AAAAAAAACQY/0mdMqNrJ8LQ/s400/kinley-phantom.jpg" width="332" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Kinley loving life on the snowy, licheny rock, with Phantom Tower behind<br />
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<tr><td><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-U9mewOZiX8U/UEEz6kqHRdI/AAAAAAAACRY/VKJhMpd-DwY/s1600/snowrock.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-U9mewOZiX8U/UEEz6kqHRdI/AAAAAAAACRY/VKJhMpd-DwY/s400/snowrock.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Conditions are prime.</td></tr>
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The final portion of the climb was a never-ending super
exposed and esthetic knife-edge, made slightly more complicated by intermittent
snow sections. We simulclimbed as quickly as we could, barely even pausing to
take in the extreme beauty of where we were as occasional shafts of sun
penetrated the thick clouds around us, highlighting the stark shapes and
contrasts in the rock and snow on the ridge. The day was flying by as false
summits and tricky buttresses of low fifth-class climbing, sometimes on very
loose blocks, continued to present themselves. The fact that we were all
carrying bivi gear and extra stuff for our planned ascent of the Grand
Cappuccino, including a bolt kit, pins, a hammer and a sizeable rack, did not
help our speed.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Ai_rtW9uQNQ/UEEz30DXLZI/AAAAAAAACRA/quYmIqxKN6w/s1600/ridgeJasmin.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Ai_rtW9uQNQ/UEEz30DXLZI/AAAAAAAACRA/quYmIqxKN6w/s400/ridgeJasmin.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Trying to hustle on the snow rock snow rock of the final ridge section of Serra Two<br />
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Finally, as night was falling, we gained the top of the
south ridge and were able to begin rapping down the Hidden Couloir onto the
Tellot Glacier. Our fourth rap took us over the bergrschrund just as dark was
truly upon us. We roped up and began descending the broken glacier with icy
mist collecting on our clothes and hair, silently wondering how the hell we
were going to navigate several kms down the glacier to the warmth and shelter
of the Plumber Hut. Just as we began to need our headlamps to see, the clouds
dissipated for the first time all day and the full moon illuminated the
glacier. My whoop of relief echoed across the surreal landscape of spires, snow
and ice, and as if in response, a bright meteor flashed overhead. As we
stumbled in a sinuous path over the unpredictable breakable crust of the
glacier, I marveled in the beauty around us and felt overwhelmed by gratitude that this
amazing adventure had concluded safely. <o:p></o:p><br />
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<tr><td><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ANlZdhHqCPU/UEEz547EQcI/AAAAAAAACRQ/_nUdjVMk4Ms/s1600/serra2jasmin.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ANlZdhHqCPU/UEEz547EQcI/AAAAAAAACRQ/_nUdjVMk4Ms/s400/serra2jasmin.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">One of the last raps onto the Tellot. It's getting dark and I am ready to be done. </td></tr>
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The next morning, we spent several indescribably pleasant
hours lounging about in the sun outside the hut, drinking instant coffee,
eating the last of our food and reminiscing about the crazy climb it had been.
I could hardly believe my eyes when Kinley pulled out a pink compact mirror and
tweezers from her pack and began preening. I love these seemingly incongruous
moments when strong, competent women do very stereotypically girly things in the mountains.
Personally, I had no desire to look in a mirror when I could feel my sunburned
and chapped lips flaking off in leprous chunks. </div>
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<tr><td><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4A8iEuGWTOI/UEEz1yBOKCI/AAAAAAAACQw/F36ZctMYqE0/s1600/kinleymirror.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4A8iEuGWTOI/UEEz1yBOKCI/AAAAAAAACQw/F36ZctMYqE0/s400/kinleymirror.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Kinley the mountain princess in her natural habitat</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-pfTFHa-QLA0/UEEztzn76wI/AAAAAAAACQA/97N4DctriuM/s1600/group.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-pfTFHa-QLA0/UEEztzn76wI/AAAAAAAACQA/97N4DctriuM/s400/group.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The team. Alive, well and extra bonded after our long climb.</td></tr>
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Eventually we marched back to our Sunny Knob basecamp and
de-rigged from our Serra Two epic. A small infection in Kinley’s elbow had producing
a kiwi-fruit sized lump during the climb, and a sat phone call to a nurse
confirmed that she needed to get to an ER. As we packed up, my disappointment
at leaving without even getting a sip of the Grand Cappuccino was dwarfed by my
satisfaction of completing three safe and classic ascents in this stunning
range. I am certain I don’t have the necessary cahones to pursue most of the
big-mountain objectives the Waddington Range is full of, but my caffeine and
granite spire addiction is giving me a craving for a second round of Grand
Cappuccino next summer…<br />
<br />
Mountains and mountains of gratitude to MEC Expedition Support and Patagonia for giving us financial help with the pricy heli flight to go on this trip. Black Diamond Equipment supplied a ton of sweet gear including my new fave small pack - the Speed 22, and some super light and comfy Vector Helmets. Sterling Ropes supplied us with some super durable and awesome handling Velocity 9.8mm ropes. 5.10 set me up with my extra comfy super-sized Galileos which I wore socks under on every pitch. PRObar and Vega hooked us up with some tasty food that kept us going (climbing and #2). These companies ROCK and make going on trips like this possible for those of us lucky enough to have the time and desire to make them happen.<br />
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<o:p></o:p></div>
<!--EndFragment-->Jasminhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18106615510798115812noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4843724593150614779.post-87473492971904930132012-08-07T07:44:00.001-06:002012-08-07T07:44:57.147-06:00University Wall upper cut!A new kind of climbing injury for me yesterday! A hot and sweaty redpoint attempt on University Wall with Senja Palonen... no redpoint and a slip on the second pitch left me with a big fat bruise on my chin! Chris Christie was there to document...<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="allowfullscreen" frameborder="0" height="281" mozallowfullscreen="mozallowfullscreen" src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/47068233" webkitallowfullscreen="webkitallowfullscreen" width="500"></iframe> <a href="http://vimeo.com/47068233">U-Wall</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user4802813">Chris Christie</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.Jasminhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18106615510798115812noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4843724593150614779.post-69026604786847820132012-07-03T23:04:00.000-06:002012-07-03T23:04:11.901-06:00Embracing the steeps<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rob Owens photo. </td></tr>
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I haven't been the quickest to warm up to overhanging climbing. My first steep limestone climbing experience was in Thailand, and it was definitely frustrating. Although when I visited Thailand I had climbed a mitfull of Squamish 5.12- cracks, routes I still find difficult to this day, at Tonsai I found myself getting schooled on the 5.11- warmups. The ones that you climb metal ladders to get to the start of and have to endure the impatient stares from a line of waiting muscly hard men and women while you flail, sweat and curse your way up. Back then, 5.12 in this terrain seemed like a very distant dream. I figured I just didn't have the pipes or the abs or whatever it took to haul my way up steeply overhanging rock. At the end of my two week trip to Thailand, however, whether I knew it or not I had picked up some of the fundamentals on how to move around on steep ground. Nowadays I enjoy the deep pump I get from climbing on the steeps, the ability to turn off my head and climb, the simplicity of clipping bolts and not being afraid to take big whippers when there's nothing to hit but air.<br />
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A few days ago I sent my first 5.13a sport climb. It was a super steep and wild line up a beautiful limestone cave on Vancouver Island. I employed all the trickery I could: some soft downturned shoes (5.10 Arrowheads), double knee bar pads which I taped onto my pants with duct tape to minimize bruising of my thighs on the numerous knee-bar rests on the route. I even found a double knee bar bat hang that was comfortable and hilarious! Trust me, there's no better way to shake off the red point jitters than to hang upside down and laugh at the ridiculous position you are in.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-H0yPDB9r9i4/T_O6p7oZ-zI/AAAAAAAACPU/q5I3lcJnG_4/s1600/IMG_3350.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-H0yPDB9r9i4/T_O6p7oZ-zI/AAAAAAAACPU/q5I3lcJnG_4/s400/IMG_3350.jpeg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rob Owens photo. On the first of several knee bar rests. </td></tr>
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It's been awhile since I redpointed something that I had worked really hard for, so when I finally thrutched through the last hard moves and climbed to the chains I had the sweet, sweet feeling of endorphins coursing through my veins as I hollered with joy. On this particular climb, it's customary to skip the last bolt and then take a victory whip from the chains - a solid 30 foot fall. Even with the happy send juices flowing, as I clutched the clipping jug I had to yell down to my friends at the base, "should I take the whip?". They responded with a resounding, "yeah!" and so I jumped off, doing a midair kicking and flailing jig as I screamed like a happy banshee. </div>
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A few days later the endorphin rush is gone and my mind has already moved ahead to my next climbing obsession here in Squamish, projects that I hope will be helped by the muscles and endurance I built up on the steeps this month. And on the flip side, the bruises on my legs and the scabs all over my ankles, hands and shoulders remind me that trad climbing skills can also work for me on the steeps. </div>
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<br /></div>Jasminhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18106615510798115812noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4843724593150614779.post-68466199206399422552012-06-22T16:31:00.005-06:002012-06-22T20:26:40.314-06:00Nature, Culture and Pleasure in Corsica<div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Corsica is a mountainous French island in the Mediterranean, and according the The Lonely Planet Guide, "it's hard to find a better combination of nature, culture and pleasure". With a description like that, it's pretty hard not to want to make a trip there! But as I was planning my annual spring Euro climbing vacation, I found it hard to get a sense of the quality and quantity of the climbing in Corsica, and after visiting many of the ultra-classic French climbing zones like Ceuse, the Gorges du Verdon, Presles and the Gorges du Tarn, all of which I could easily revisit, I wondered if Corsica was going to stand up to my high standards of French stone.<br />
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I travel a lot and when I arrive in a new place that really inspires me I feel energized by the new smells and tastes and seeing new landscapes and combinations of colours. I run around taking a million photos of weeds and trees and bugs. Through my "fresh" eyes all of these commonplace things are national-geographic worthy spectacles, although a few weeks later when I am home and wading through all of my mediocre-at-best shots, I wonder what the hell I was thinking. A few years ago near the Verdon Gorge in France I went for a long solo hike on a rest day and witnessed the a parade of nose to ass caterpillars that was so long I couldn't even see the end of it. I took 50 photos and several movies, which is pretty funny considering that I took almost no photos while climbing up the steep and exposed walls of the beautiful Gorges du Verdon. "Ho hum, just another multi pitch rock climb, yawn. But these bugs are so cool!"</div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Caterpillar train near the Gorges du Verdon, France</span></div>
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Showing up in Corsica brought on a flurry of that feeling of excitement, wonder and super-energy. The landscape was beautiful, rugged and very different from what we had just experienced the previous week on the neighbouring island of Sardinia. It sounds silly to say that a certain rock type has special meaning to me, but there's something about granite that I completely love. Perhaps it is the fact many of my formative dirt-bag adventures were played out on the granite walls of Squamish and Yosemite. </div>
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After driving off the ferry in the town of Bonifacio on the southern tip of Corsica, we bought a map and made our way towards one of the main climbing areas - the Col de Bavedda. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">We bought this map of Corsica in a gas station, not knowing that it was an actual-size representation of the island. Trying to navigate with it from the passenger seat of our teeny Fiat 500 usually resulted in me blocking the entire windshield, and Evan's view of the narrow and winding road. Folding this map was pretty much the crux of our week in Corsica. </span></td></tr>
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We bought the only guide book we could find - a beautiful french guide book called "Bavedda - Auguilles entre ciel et torrents by Jean-Louis Fenouil and Jen-Paul Quilici". The route topos were all done on exquisitely detailed watercolour paintings, and although I loved the uniquely artistic appearance of the guide book, it turns out a photo or a detailed route topo is actually pretty helpful when you are figuring out an area for the first time. We spent two days attempting to find, then climb our chosen warm-up route, Esperanza, on Punta Rosso. It's a 6 pitch, 7a+ route with a steep 1.5 hour approach, which we got thunder stormed off part way up on both days. Although we weren't able to complete the route, from these pitches and some single pitch sport routes we did closer to the road we got a sense of the high-quality and mind-bending geometry of the Corsican granite.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Watercolour image of the Punta Rosso from the Bavedda guidebook</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Sunrise on some of the spires at the Col de Bavedda</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Climbing up steep and wild features on Esparanza</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">No energy bars in sight, this was a fresh, pine-nut studded almond tart from the Boulangerie in Zonza. </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Post-thunderstorm sunshine on the beautiful scenery at the Col de Bavedda</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Huge flowers on the hike up to Esperanza</span><br />
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A crappy weather forecast drove us out of the Col de Bavedda and towards the town of Ajaccio on Corsica's west coast. Descriptions of 7-9 pitch lines on the Rocher des Gozzi in the Falaise de Corse guidebook had caught our interest, but we had nothing in the way of first hand information on the climbing and hadn't run into any other climbers in Corsica so far. Thanks to the awesome details in the guidebook, which was in english as well as french, we easily found our way to the climbing, and spent our day climbing up a well bolted 9 pitch route called Gozzilla, 7b (6b+ obligatory). The climbing was technical through the lower and upper sections, with edges and huecos. The middle section climbed out a wildly overhanging cave which would have been amazing to send, but the cave was entirely moist either due to seepage or condensation on the rock. Thanks to the close bolting, we could pull through a few of the greasy moves and enjoy the rest of the climbing.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Evan and the base of Gozzi, figuring out what's what</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">The lower pitches on Gozzila were surrounded by these giant cacti, which were thankfully thorn-free</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Starting up the steep and damp cave section of the route. By the appearance of the rock, I expected it to be crumbly kitty litter, but it was completely solid!</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Evan in the fog on the summit of Gozzi</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Beautiful plants and flowers on the descent</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Evan hiking past a ruin on the decent</span></td></tr>
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After all this climbing, it was time for some replenishment, and this is one area where Corsica will not disappoint. A rich local cuisine filled with amazingly fresh cheeses like Brocciu, a signature Corsican product made from sheep and or goat's milk, dishes made from wild boar and the addition of chestnuts to everything from stew to ice cream, to beer to tiramisu. With all those steep approaches, we had a significant appetite for refuelling. A sport climbing trip this was not, and we feasted like alpine climbers who had just starved for days in the mountains.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Salade de chevre chaud with some organic Corsican wine. I'd say the dirt-bagging days are officially over. </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Me getting cosy with the wild boar... the stewed wild boar with chestnuts at this auberge in the town of Zonza was amazing.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">It's hard to beat wood fired pizza on the beach, with some frosty Pietra (a Corsican Beer) or refreshing rose.</span></td></tr>
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Next we made a quick visit to the cultural and geographical centre of Corsica, Corte. Our main draw was the Vallee de Restonica, a beautiful valley next to Corte surrounded by Corsica's highest peaks with numerous long and short route possibilities. When I return to Corsica I will definitely schedule in a good week or two to climb in the Restonica, but on this trip we didn't have the time or the weather to do much more than drive up the valley and get a few roadside sport climbs in between thunder showers. But if the amount of rock and the quality of what we sampled is any indication, there is a lot of potential for great climbing on existing routes, as well as lots of new route potential with relatively easy access. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-u94Uk9l6NjE/T-TC-16xbSI/AAAAAAAACM0/TPhnbMpg90w/s1600/P1050882.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-u94Uk9l6NjE/T-TC-16xbSI/AAAAAAAACM0/TPhnbMpg90w/s400/P1050882.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">We did a few pitches of 5.11+ to 5.12 at this crag called Frassetta in the Restonica. The climbing was up cracks, edges, and crazy round-features that almost felt like Maple cobbles. </span></td></tr>
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With only one climbing day left in Corsica, we really wanted to climb Jeef (7b, 14 pitches) at the Col de Bavedda. The weather was calling for afternoon thunder storms, and bailing from this climb isn't really feasible before the top of the 8th pitch, where it joins the easier and popular route "Dos d'elephant". We got an alpine start and managed to climb the route, which completely exceeded our expectations, which is saying something for a couple of rock snobs who didn't get enough sleep, had not taken a rest day in a week and got in a giant fight about whether to keep going to the top despite the menacing clouds (me) or bail from the top of the 9th pitch (Evan). Even better, our rappel route took us down the route Delicatessen (8b), which along with Jeef was established by French hardman and Arnaud Petit. Delicatessen looked hard but so good... those of you capable of that grade who like granite climbing should check it out! By the time we hit the ground, the sun was again shining and my day was taken to the next level of awesomeness when I took an icy dip in the beautifully sculpted smooth pool in the creek at the valley bottom.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">But then Evan gave it the MOG test</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">The cave pitch.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Thunder-storm-aphobe Evan preparing to rap down as I basked on the summit, refusing to be rushed off our last summit in Corsica.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">A profile view of the climb, taken from the descent raps down Delicatessen</span></td></tr>
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With guiding work commitments drawing us home to rainy Squamish, our trip to Corsica had come to an end. Despite the fact that we experienced fairly unsettled weather, we managed to climb at least a few pitches every day we spent on the island. As with all of my favourite climbing trips, this one finished with me hungry for more and scheming for an opportunity to return.<br />
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<br />Jasminhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18106615510798115812noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4843724593150614779.post-22096645980603419402012-06-15T14:11:00.000-06:002015-02-11T09:12:43.039-07:00Multipitch sport climbing in SardiniaEvery spring Evan and I are faced with the somewhat daunting task of getting back into climbing after a full 5-6 months on our skis. Even though I go through the process every year, it's still hard and at times frustrating. There's always a phase of wondering if we even like climbing anymore, and we find ourselves drawn to running and mountain biking, sports that we actually feel better at after ski season thanks to our strong legs and huge lungs. After cruising around in ski boots for so long, climbing feels uncomfortable, unnatural and really really scary. I find myself checking my knot several times mid pitch and my toes scream for mercy even in my most comfy rock shoes. Even the soles of my feet get sore from walking rocky trails in sneakers after literally months of treading on soft snow in stiff plastic ski boots. As you can imagine, the whining gets completely out of hand, and the last thing I want is to subject my Squamish climbing partners to this pathetic display... the only option is to run away!<br />
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The perfect antidote for the early season lack of climbing mojo is a trip to Europe, and we have made this part of our spring routine for the past few years. Clipping bolts on some steep Euro limestone, enjoying good food and wine, and just being somewhere new really helps us get fit and re-psyched for the climbing season. After spending last fall clipping bolts in the Red River Gorge, Kentucky, I was really craving a trip with a bit more of a multi-pitching/adventure climbing element. Browsing our favourite Euro-climbing inspiration source, a book by Stephanie Bodet and Arnaud Petit called "Parois de Legende - Les Plus Belles Escalades d'Europe" we were drawn to the multi pitching possibilities on the islands of Corsica and Sardinia, conveniently located close together in the Mediterranean, but each with different rock types, topography, culture and language (Sardinia is part of Italy and Corsica is part of France).<br />
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We flew into the main airport on the north end of Sardinia and hopped into our rental car, an adorable but gutless little Fiat 500 (say "cinquecento" not "five hundred") and made the slow and windy drive to Cala Gonone, a small village on the east coast bracketed north and south by rugged, undeveloped coastline.<br />
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Evan dwarfing the Fiat 500</div>
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We were warmly welcomed by the italian family who were renting us a studio apartment in their 6-unit building, and it turned out they spent most of the 80's living in Squamish a few doors down from where we live now. The father worked as a pipe-fitter at the pulp mill and his son, who was born in Canada, now runs the vacation rental apartments with him in Sardinia. Their apartments are clean and bright and right next to the beautiful town beach in Cala Gonone - if you are going to Cala Gonone, I would recommend this place completely.<br />
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Our first few days were kind of rainy, but we kept ourselves busy...</div>
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Enjoying the local food - this thin bread is a Sardinian specialty called Carta Musica (music paper)</div>
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No trip is complete without sampling the local beverages - strictly for research purposes</div>
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Evan making friends</div>
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Giant blooming cactus plants lined some of the roads</div>
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I love the unstructured but aesthetic details common in many of the places we have visited in Europe</div>
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Our first few days we hit up a number of crags in the Cala Gonone vicinity, and even made a 1.5 hour drive to a nice looking area to the south called Jerzu. The combination of super humid conditions, polished rock and the frequency of super rusty bolts and manky anchors left us underwhelmed with the climbing, even if we were loving everything else. </div>
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Cala Luna</div>
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We decided to ditch the cragging in favour of some multi pitch climbing and checked out Mediteraneano, an 8 pitch 12a route on Punta Girardili, a 700m cliff on a wild and undeveloped section of coastline. At last, we felt like we were climbing something worth flying over the Atlantic. The climbing was vertical and reminiscent to what we climbed in the Verdon Gorge, but more remote and wild feeling and no one around.<br />
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Salami to be, on the approach</div>
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Just another crappy Med view on the approach to Punta Girardili</div>
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Evan seconding some super tech-ness on Mediteraneano</div>
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Higher on the route the rock is steeper and the scenery remains mediocre</div>
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Our final day in Sardinia we climbed the classic spire Goloritze, which has many 4-6 pitch routes on it and sits above one of the most scenic beaches in Sardinia, which can only be accessed by boat or a 1 hr steep hike. We opted for the hike, and snuck in our four pitches of awesome climbing before the heat hit and we had to retreat to the smooth white slabs and round pebbles of the beach for some rest and refreshment. It was quite epic. I almost got a sunburn and the beer almost got warm. </div>
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Evan climbing on Goloritze </div>
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Clowning around near the top of Goloritze</div>
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Testing out some Sardinian beer</div>
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...and discovering the perfect beer holder</div>
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The Goloritze spire and beach</div>
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There is even an arch beside the beach. Seriously? This place is too much.</div>
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Smooth, clean limestone pebbles at Cala Goloritze - you don't even get sand in your butt crack. Heaven on earth. </div>
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All in all, Sardinia was an awesome place to check out. I would not recommend it for those seeking a sport cragging trip, but from what I sampled of the multi pitches the quality and options on this front are somewhat endless. The hard men and women out there can check out Hotel Supramonte (8b, a bunch of pitches) and there seems to be plenty for 5.11 climbers too. The beaches are beautiful and Cala Gonone is low key, a welcome change from the packed beaches and high prices in some of the other Mediterrnean beachside towns I have visited.</div>
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Although we easily could have stayed longer and climbed more multi pitch routes, temps were climbing into the 30 degree celsius range so we decided to head to Corsica, where mountainous granite and cooler temps awaited. Trip report on Corsica coming soon!</div>
Jasminhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18106615510798115812noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4843724593150614779.post-51866503571234045522012-05-29T02:31:00.001-06:002012-05-29T02:48:34.674-06:00Yoga and Climbing weekend August 18-19, 2012<br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">Lydia Zamorano and I will be running a Women's Yoga and Climbing weekend in Squamish August 18-19. The weekend will encompass climbing technique instruction, yoga classes and raw food breakfasts and dinner (Saturday). </span></div>
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Lydia has dedicated over 10 years to studying and sharing yoga, and for the past 3 years, co-owning a studio in Squamish. She feels yoga is an extraordinary way to feel good, enjoy quiet and rebalance. For more information, please see her studio website <a href="http://theyogastudiosquamish.com/">theyogastudiosquamish.com</a> or email her directly with questioning and curiosity at lydiazamorano@gmail.com.<br />
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The investment for the weekend is $325 which includes three yoga classes (Sat and Sun mornings, and Sat afternoon), three meals (breakfast Sat and Sun, dinner Sat), and two days of guided climbing and technique instruction with me (an ACMG full rock guide) and Lydia in Squamish. All climbing and yoga experience levels are welcome. If you have questions about the weekend or would like to sign up, please email me: jasmincaton@gmail.com. Only 12 spots available.</div>
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<br />Jasminhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18106615510798115812noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4843724593150614779.post-59319451079410317452012-02-14T14:35:00.025-07:002012-03-06T20:00:58.654-07:00Shut down but not defeated<div style="text-align: center;"><div style="text-align: left; "><div>Patagonia has hovered near the top of my dream list of climbing destinations for years. The idea of climbing pointy granite spires surrounded by a rugged glaciated landscape on a continent I have never visited appeals to my desire for adventure, mountain aesthetics, and high quality rock climbing. When my seasoned Patagonian climber friends <a href="http://katerutherford.com/">Kate Rutherford</a> and <a href="http://mikeylikesrocks.com/">Mikey Schaefer</a>invited me down to climb with them this winter I booked a ticket immediately, right after Evan gave me his blessing to leave all the work at <a href="http://vmt.ca/">Valhalla Mountain Touring</a> on his shoulders (or more accurately, quads) for three weeks.</div><div><br /></div></div></div><div style="text-align: left;"><img src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uDyS_929w_0/T1JsLzpm8OI/AAAAAAAAB8A/syjoL16Zwq4/s400/P1050127.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5715749827185668322" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 225px; color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; " /><div style="text-align: center;"><i>The Fitz Roy Group</i></div></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><br /></span></div><div>The week before I left Canada, tragic news from Patagonia planted seeds of hesitation and doubt that tainted my excitement for the trip. Carlyle Norman, a sister in the extended family of Canadian climbers, a strong motivated woman who I knew but never had the privilege of sharing a rope with had been killed by rockfall while climbing on St. Exupery, a spire in the Fitz Roy group. I was saddened by the loss, and a bit scared too. Events like this force me to ask myself, "is it worth it?". Climbing in the mountains gives me pure, unadulterated happiness. It's something to look forward to, something to reminisce about, something that has brought me a community of friends I love, made me stronger and forced me to recognize my weaknesses. But climbing has also robbed the world of many of my young, strong, healthy peers. And when I hear about another untimely death in the mountains I am forced to face the fact that I am not ready to leave this beautiful earth. </div><div><br /></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); "><img src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-y4w7r_lWk1Q/T1J2I96dmfI/AAAAAAAACCE/k_TEb5jqsH4/s400/IMG_1159.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5715760773517384178" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 400px; " /></span><div>Numerous plane flights and a bus ride deposited me in El Chalten, tired but inspired by the spectacular views of Fitz Roy, Cerro Torre and their accompanying spires. Kate and Mikey greeted me with hugs, smiles and news of large natural rockfalls in usually fairly stable zones brought on by prolonged periods of warm and dry weather, which added to the uneasiness that was blurring the edges of my climbing mojo. It turned out I didn't have anything to worry about because Patagonia was setting up to give me a true Patagonian welcome, with wind and rain right through the one week forecast.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fCqsV8jxszo/T1J2H0kxUwI/AAAAAAAACBU/VLFsYQvSICk/s1600/IMG_1113.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fCqsV8jxszo/T1J2H0kxUwI/AAAAAAAACBU/VLFsYQvSICk/s400/IMG_1113.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5715760753830613762" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 299px; " /></a><div style="text-align: left; "></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i>One of the only times I could see Cerro Torre was on the bus ride into town from the airport</i></div><div><br /></div><div>Rather than give you the blow by blow of my trip: "...and then we checked the meteogram on the slowest internet on the planet and the forecast was still bad so I ate an empanada or three and drowned my sorrows in a bottle of Malbec..." I will just tell you the end of the story.</div> <div style="text-align: center;"><b>!!!!!!!!!!SPOILER ALERT!!!!!!!!!!!</b></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div>I did not climb anything in my three week trip. I did not even attempt to climb anything. When it was sunny it was windy and when it was calm it was raining, except for two 6-hour windows during which I should probably have climbed something small but didn't. </div><div><br /></div><div>But.... (and this is a big BUT, like a big trail-breaking haunches of doom ski butt) I still had an excellent trip. In fact, I can safely say getting shut down in Patagonia was around a hundred times more fun to me than climbing almost a hundred sport climbs in the Red River Gorge. Oh I admit, I cried a few times with frustration that I had spent so much money and left behind some of the best skiing of the winter. But going to Patagonia was worth every wasted cent and every missed perfect powder faceshot, and here's why:</div><div><br /></div><div>TOP 10 REASONS THAT PATAGONIA IS THE BEST PLACE TO GET SHUT DOWN</div><div><br /></div><div>1. <b>The crew</b>. Hanging in El Chalten felt socially like what I remember hanging in Camp 4 feeling like 10 years ago. In a word: FUN! I was staggered by all the people I knew there. In fact, I couldn't really walk down the street without seeing someone I knew. In Argentina, a place it took me 40 hours to get to! The reunions began even before I arrived - while killing time in the Houston Airport I bumped into Yoav and Ilona, an awesome couple from San Diego I shared belays with on Castleton this fall. Turned out we were on the same flight to Buenos Aires and they were heading to El Chalten too. The feeling of being part of the climbing family even though I was travelling alone was awesome! Once I was posted at the Centro Alpino in El Chalten, I was surrounded by folks I already know, folks I wanted to know, and legends of the international climbing world. I am pretty sure that if the weather was splitter, many of us would have been absorbed with our climbing objectives and not had the time for each other. As it was, by the time three weeks was up, I felt like I was leaving a community I had grown attached to behind, with the only consolation being I was more than likely to see many of them again in some other climbing mecca.</div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#0000ee;"><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-TDiSohCFvmM/T1J2eQtmDTI/AAAAAAAACCo/Zg45OSmXfnA/s400/IMG_1176.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5715761139340938546" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 299px; " /></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i>Colin and Shane at the Gnocci-making dinner party</i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#0000ee;"><i><br /></i></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#0000ee;"><i><br /></i></span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><br /></span></span></div><img src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-80X8vX7dZSc/T1Js-FvM1QI/AAAAAAAAB98/9qKg0AGgAi4/s400/P1050260.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5715750691034420482" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px; " /></span><div style="text-align: center;"><i>Scott and Trout-man showing off the mountain of home-made empanadas</i></div><br /><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#0000ee;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="margin-right: auto; margin-left: auto;"><img src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-T6lXfioxsQE/T1Jtcld3n1I/AAAAAAAAB_c/HYfArU7aJlM/s400/P1050341.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5715751214947737426" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 225px; " /></span></span></span><div><div><div><div style="text-align: center;"><i>Martin and Pinion, the Czech boys who Kate and I met in </i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i>Greenland were also in El Chalten. </i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#0000ee;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><br /></span></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#0000ee;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#0000ee;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-K3eRBBm5Row/T1J2eJbpHxI/AAAAAAAACCY/iGyHH7RNmpY/s400/IMG_1206.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5715761137386594066" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 299px; height: 400px; " /></span></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><i>Mikey helping out at the Chocolateria</i></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#0000ee;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><br /></span></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ok3P5ifnGs8/T1JtcDcefOI/AAAAAAAAB-4/Im8fKl4StNk/s400/P1050319.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5715751205815090402" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 225px; " /></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><i>Jumbo and Hanna at Piedras Negras camp waiting for better weather. </i><br /><br /></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#0000ee;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="margin-right: auto; margin-left: auto;"><br /><br /><img src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-liucG6UDKLE/T1Jtcc7Zb2I/AAAAAAAAB_E/sxwjeTm0bM4/s400/P1050288.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5715751212655669090" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px; " /></span></span></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"></div><div style="text-align: center;"></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "></span><div style="text-align: center;"><i>Trailside lunch with Josh, Trout-man, Ilona and Yoav</i></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">2. <b>The hiking/trail running</b>. El Chalten is surrounded by an amazing network of trails that wind up from the gravel flats of the valley bottom up through tall grass hillsides which give way to forests of weathered and gnarled Beech trees, into rocky moraines and talus slopes and onto blue-hued glaciers. Given good weather, these trails make up the initial approaches to the climbing, long and brutal with heavy climbing packs, so most seasoned Patagonian climbers are not that into running around on them for fun. But from my perspective, the well-established single tracks made great 2 hour to all-day outings with nothing but my running shoes, iPod and houdini weighing me down. The scenery from these runs was absolutely spectacular - all the mountain beauty without the fear and adrenaline of climbing. And there's nothing like that endorphin rush you get from a good cardio workout. I might just have to change sports...</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1a7pyN0xkYo/T1JskMQLCVI/AAAAAAAAB9I/gVfpuzCIEwE/s400/P1050197.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5715750246106728786" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 300px; height: 400px; " /></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i>On the way to Laguna Torre</i></div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-q-g5YqYhPuw/T1JskSuPUQI/AAAAAAAAB9Y/2GZilHeRtCE/s400/P1050213.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5715750247843451138" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 225px; " /></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i>Colin approaches NiPoniNo camp</i></div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WVnqu4HuMlE/T1JuB98xqxI/AAAAAAAACAM/djlLCVyVQHQ/s400/P1050427.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5715751857174981394" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 225px; " /></span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><div style="text-align: center; "><i>Self portrait on my fave run - a 1000m hill straight out of town with amazing views. </i></div><div style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><br /></span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><br /></span></span></div><img src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-H-4S6SCnhFs/T1JsMXDzxlI/AAAAAAAAB8k/SjJxmPqX9ts/s400/P1050172.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5715749836690802258" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 225px; " /></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#330000;"><i>Beautiful single track above town</i></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#330000;"><i><br /></i></span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#0000ee;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="margin-right: auto; margin-left: auto;"><img src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GaarJ6F8miE/T1Js_JMmniI/AAAAAAAAB-g/_Dwf0ubYC-I/s400/P1050360.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5715750709142920738" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 225px; " /></span></span></span></div><div><div style="text-align: center;"><i>Wondering if the 5 hr run was a solid plan in the rain and sleet at Laguna de los Tres</i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#0000ee;"><br /></span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><br /></span></div><img src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YglkDTWNiBI/T1Js-bB-zVI/AAAAAAAAB-U/DBm9ri87tTM/s400/P1050303.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5715750696750337362" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px; " /></span><div style="text-align: center;"><i>Basking in the sun below Guillamet</i></div><div><br /></div><div>3. <b>The bouldering and sport climbing</b>. In case you are worried all that trail running is growing your legs disproportionately to your arms, El Chalten is surrounded by fantastic bouldering and fun sport climbing. Gathering a huge posse and heading up to the solid and featured stone of the boulders was another trip highlight. Staggering around in the wind like a human sail with a bouldering pad on your back between problems keeps it real, Patagonia style.</div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#0000ee;"><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FvTZdWGUu-w/T1Js-XYycNI/AAAAAAAAB-E/UNjxzUOybqU/s400/P1050276.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5715750695772254418" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px; " /></span><div style="text-align: center;"><i>The Madsen Boulders above El Chalten</i></div><br /></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#0000ee;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="margin-right: auto; margin-left: auto;"><br /><img src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ajmu1BXgHgU/T1JuLhL6awI/AAAAAAAACA8/x11Z56XHOUo/s400/P1050443.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5715752021252532994" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px; " /></span></span></span></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i>Josh, Mark and Joel confirm my suspicious about what bouldering is really all about.</i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--b02jIZ1KVo/T1JuMCBSfaI/AAAAAAAACBI/2EVpghgKq4Y/s400/P1050444.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5715752030066343330" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px; " /></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i>Kate takes it to the next level, with cookies on the bouldering pad.</i></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><div><br /></div></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hIZrz3OTFdc/T1JsMnixfJI/AAAAAAAAB8w/JCyGyrpF-tU/s400/P1050176.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5715749841115643026" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px; " /></span></div><div><div style="text-align: center;"><i>Sport climbing 7 km out of town.</i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); "><br /></span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#0000ee;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="margin-right: auto; margin-left: auto;"><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#0000ee;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="margin-right: auto; margin-left: auto;"><br /></span></span></span></div><img src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-McRFw5PldU4/T1JuBXYvbzI/AAAAAAAAB_0/jZNS_qeQ7o8/s400/P1050414.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5715751846823292722" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 225px; " /></span></span></span><div style="text-align: center;"><i>Kate and Rolo heading out of the sport crag Calamar</i></div><div><br /></div><div>4. <b>The Chocolateria</b>. This place has more cosy charm than anywhere I've been in awhile, with wooden tables, big stacks of climbing magazines and the amazing smell of melting chocolate wafting from the open kitchen. Whether you want to drink beer and eat the best pizza in town, or sip espresso and munch an Alfajor (Argentinian version of the oreo with dulce de leche in the middle of two cookies and covered in chocolate!!!), the Chocolateria is the place to fester.</div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-F7j2i1QH1FA/T1J2IQwaO1I/AAAAAAAACB4/3C96RKGbQnw/s400/IMG_1142.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5715760761395624786" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 299px; " /></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><i>Artisinal yumminess</i></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-2S7mCjBy8RQ/T1JtctEQlEI/AAAAAAAAB_M/390phq093Z8/s400/P1050337.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5715751216987804738" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 300px; height: 400px; " /></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><i>Lincoln samples a "submarine" - chocolate bar dipped in hot milk</i></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><br /></span></div><div>5. <b>Learning Spanish</b>. Prior to arriving in El Chalten, the sum total of my Spanish lexicon was the numbers from one to ten which I learned in Mexico when I was six years old. I found the locals in El Chalten friendly, patient and willing to teach even a total novice like me.</div><div><br /></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Re5-8pm5ki0/T1J2d3JuU1I/AAAAAAAACCQ/8YJDjf92Fhc/s400/IMG_1182.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5715761132479599442" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 299px; " /></span><div style="text-align: center;">The produce guy at Gringitos Market was especially helpful in giving me some Spanish vocabulary</div><div><br /></div><div>6. <b>Sietes Venas</b>. This is El Chalten's favorite local band. Actually, I am pretty sure they are the only local band, so good thing they rock! I was lucky enough to catch one of their shows, which didn't start until 2AM. The music was great, kind of punky, and the place was absolutely jam packed with what seemed like a mostly Argentinian crowd. The moshing was a bit intense, but exhilarating. I was proud of myself for staying out until 5AM.</div><div><br /></div><div>7. <b>Senyera</b>. The best restaurant in town for Bife de Chorizo (giant hunk o' beef) and Locro (bean, meat and pumpkin stew). Reasonable prices, awesome service. </div><div><br /></div><div><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1PHVapCStfA/T1J2H6HdqLI/AAAAAAAACBg/cTsIUgQ_76I/s1600/IMG_1124.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1PHVapCStfA/T1J2H6HdqLI/AAAAAAAACBg/cTsIUgQ_76I/s400/IMG_1124.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5715760755318302898" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 299px; " /></a><div style="text-align: left; "></div></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i>Colin and Hayden enjoy some pre-dinner complimentary bread and butter at Senyera.</i></div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QsDuwxiDyLs/T1JuLoHLziI/AAAAAAAACAw/PhFQ_D8wMeo/s400/P1050442.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5715752023111749154" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 225px; " /></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><i>With views this good, how could the beef taste anything but delicious?</i></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><br /></span></div><div>8. <b>Wine</b>. No shortage of tasty reds at around $10 per bottle. Cheaper than BC, I'd have been silly not to enjoy it every night. </div><div><br /></div><div>9. <b>Empanadas and facturas. </b>Sweet and savoury little pastries, which are warm and fresh if you get to the bakery at just the right time. Almost as convenient a pocket snack as an energy bar, and way more tasty! We even had a few empanada-making dinner parties.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Hbt3dxt2xtk/T1JskiyRYEI/AAAAAAAAB9g/OryaLQuz1TQ/s400/P1050253.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5715750252155330626" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 225px; " /></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><i>The empanada factory</i></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><br /></span></div><div>10. <b>Scenery</b>. It's just as beautiful in Patagonia as the photos lead you to believe. Go see for yourself, there's nowhere like it!</div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-PGOaPSt4DWY/T1JuCbRG0GI/AAAAAAAACAk/VfpGBUP5bFI/s400/P1050436.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5715751865044881506" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 300px; height: 400px; " /></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i>Looking to Lago Viedma from the Loma del Pliegue Tumbado</i></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GmPPZbiC5R8/T1JuCC3e_OI/AAAAAAAACAY/1XCxqNiKuCM/s400/P1050433.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5715751858494962914" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 225px; " /></span></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><i>View up the Torre Valley, with the Cerro Torre group hidden in the clouds. Fitz Roy on the right.</i></span></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-l0L72P4meac/T1JuBqoH7CI/AAAAAAAACAA/vepxOoW6XeY/s400/P1050407.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5715751851988085794" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 225px; " /></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><i>The wall of hate hitting the mountains... perfect bouldering conditions in town, BTW.</i></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dg_k41z4XzM/T1JtdB5aR9I/AAAAAAAAB_k/FIJH0D1N7DI/s400/P1050400.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5715751222579447762" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 225px; " /></span></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><i>Cerro Torre almost popping into view on the left</i></span></span></div></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-h86ntRg2rAU/T1Js_b67BII/AAAAAAAAB-s/4MuVLe1uu-c/s400/P1050342.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5715750714169033858" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 225px; " /></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><i>Sunrise and rainbow over El Chalten</i></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wuA78pJREWU/T1JskvmHvJI/AAAAAAAAB9s/-IXh4jh4NSY/s400/P1050221.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5715750255594028178" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 225px; " /></span></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i>Wind buffets Fitz Roy.</i></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XDk07SIDtWw/T1JsMUxv6qI/AAAAAAAAB8Y/HHmCxLHtaf8/s400/P1050141.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5715749836078181026" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 225px; " /></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><i>Laguna Sucia - the icy dip is highly recommended. </i></span></div></div></div>Jasminhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18106615510798115812noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4843724593150614779.post-6232695622607548722012-02-05T09:05:00.009-07:002012-02-14T06:51:45.959-07:00Ski envy<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-gzCX4Ib_vWY/Tzpm5GDKXsI/AAAAAAAAB5A/Cb-gA4lGxyM/s1600/skiblog7.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 267px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-gzCX4Ib_vWY/Tzpm5GDKXsI/AAAAAAAAB5A/Cb-gA4lGxyM/s400/skiblog7.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5708988608707976898" /></a><br /><div style="text-align: left;">I’m sitting in El Chalten, Argentina, under the shadows of the majestic spires of Fitz Roy and Poincenot. Well, truthfully, there are no shadows being cast on this windy, rainy day. Since I arrived a few weeks ago, the weather rapidly disintegrated from hot and summery, to super windy, to the present state of socked in and sideways rain. Don’t get me wrong, I’m having an amazing time. I’ve been on some absolutely spectacular hikes, caught up with old friends and made some new ones, imbibed more than a few bottles of delicious Argentinian reds, and am spending time in the boulders and catching up on reading.</div><div><p class="MsoNormal"><o:p></o:p></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p> <p class="MsoNormal">Stepping out of ski season gives me a new perspective on the people I know who love to ski, but whose lives make it impossible to get on the snow regularly in the winter.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Suddenly all those spiteful seeming comments on my status updates referring to “another 30 cm of fresh” and “endless faceshots” make sense. Suddenly I’m the one jonesing for the snow! </p> <p class="MsoNormal">Sifting through a bunch of images our friend Chris Christie took on an early January week at VMT certainly doesn’t help matters.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Chris, an accomplished adventure photographer and great skier, brought along Tobin Seagal, a Squamish-based ski fiend to ski with Evan and I for a week. The four of us skied everything from DEEP powder to wind pressed snow in dumping snow to clear and sunny conditions. <o:p></o:p></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p> <span style="font-family:Cambria;mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family:"MS 明朝";mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;mso-bidi-Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font:minor-bidi;mso-ansi-language:EN-US;mso-fareast-language: EN-US;mso-bidi-language:AR-SAfont-family:";font-size:100%;">Below are some of Chris’s images from the week.</span><!--EndFragment--> </div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Mt115I9jPJg/Ty6o_vfzpgI/AAAAAAAAB4Q/wb6925c3coY/s1600/skiblog1.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><br /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xB_1dbLlAP8/TzPlV7rPyDI/AAAAAAAAB4c/rAe2_7Kyeig/s400/skiblog2.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5707157317767645234" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 267px; " /></span><br /><img src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Ajr0ziFNRWg/TzPljX0ImkI/AAAAAAAAB4o/EeaVmuB8PvE/s400/skiblog4.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5707157548659415618" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 267px; " /></span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "></span><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gPFcLWZbBdE/TzPmXsrYSjI/AAAAAAAAB40/Ml4JfrOfpy8/s400/skiblog8.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5707158447613037106" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 267px; " /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><br /></span></span></div>Jasminhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18106615510798115812noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4843724593150614779.post-42687457610779211292012-01-23T13:50:00.011-07:002012-01-23T15:32:16.416-07:00Slowing down to catch up - fall road trip photos<div style="text-align: left;">I have found myself with eight hours to kill in an airport. I am on my way to Patagonia, Argentina to meet up and climb with my friends <a href="http://katerutherford.com/">Kate Rutherford</a> and <a href="http://mikeylikesrocks.com/">Mikey Schaefer</a>. While in many ways, the adventure of this trip has already begun - complete with a cross-provincial odyssey on treacherous winter roads, an alpine start to get to the airport, comical shenanigans in airport lineups (hidden cans of salmon stashed in the kiddy luggage of a family of 5), it's hardly these details I want to focus on. There will be better stories to tell by the end of the trip!</div><div><br /></div><div>I realize, however, that I haven't written anything in a long time, and as usual, it hasn't been for lack of travel and adventure. I will share some of my favourite iPhone pics to tell the story of my fall road trip.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 299px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ypcfDrXyLuw/Tx3R9uctsyI/AAAAAAAAB0o/YKnUgfezDWc/s400/IMG_0788.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5700943561691607842" /><div style="text-align: center;"><i>Our autumn road trip began with a cross-continent drive from Squamish to New York. It was a long drive, as expected, but I loved the golden serenity of these prairie landscapes late in the afternoon.</i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; font-style: normal; "><img src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-znf4jiNGD4o/Tx3R9xqXSZI/AAAAAAAAB04/HI4BwO67Gik/s400/IMG_0792.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5700943562554165650" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 299px; " /></span></i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i>Day 1 in NYC - our view of the Occupy Wall St. protest. We were downtown for the Light the Night cancer fundraiser, but it was cool to see the civil disobedience event of the year first hand. I must admit I was a bit tempted to join the march...</i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i><br /></i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i><br /></i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; font-style: normal; "><img src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Gzkz5Q9hBiM/Tx3R-THzkhI/AAAAAAAAB1A/OPSSd722IhU/s400/IMG_0803.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5700943571536024082" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 299px; height: 400px; " /></span></i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i>We spent 10 days climbing on the brilliant, bold trad routes in the Gunks. I finally got the hang of the climbing style enough to push myself a bit on some harder routes. The Gunks combines the ultimate in trad gear fiddling and amazing technical movement. This is single-pitch climbing that doesn't let you get your guard down for a second!</i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i><br /></i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i><br /></i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; font-style: normal; "><br /></span></i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Xvm5Dr5B3pk/Tx3R_NFKtDI/AAAAAAAAB1Y/Iryex90nopk/s400/IMG_0823.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5700943587094213682" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 299px; height: 400px; " /></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; font-style: normal; "><img src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-S-1fJS2CpiU/Tx3R-uLlpMI/AAAAAAAAB1M/BStl--4XkRw/s400/IMG_0819.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5700943578799645890" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 299px; height: 400px; " /></span></i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; ">Although BC's mountainscape is definitely my happy place, the beauty of the East-Coast autumn is lovely.</span></i></div><div><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8216RF3ALmY/Tx3S7mBRa5I/AAAAAAAAB1w/n2H2Wi8xoCk/s1600/IMG_0828.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8216RF3ALmY/Tx3S7mBRa5I/AAAAAAAAB1w/n2H2Wi8xoCk/s400/IMG_0828.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5700944624580914066" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 299px; " /></a><div style="text-align: center;"><i>Everytime I visit NYC, there are new wonders to experience. This billboard-sized photo of a rugged rocky canyon dusted in snow is part of a public art exhibit. It certainly makes me feel more at home among the concrete and cars and consumption. </i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i><br /></i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i><br /></i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; font-style: normal; "><img src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-eO807s95nAU/Tx3S7UBh-PI/AAAAAAAAB1k/DexvttskAdw/s400/IMG_0825.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5700944619750160626" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 299px; height: 400px; " /></span></i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i>Love it!</i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i><br /></i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i><br /></i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; font-style: normal; "><img src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ibsyqlnC1g4/Tx3S72QnlVI/AAAAAAAAB18/uMk2-50xffc/s400/IMG_0857.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5700944628940248402" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 299px; " /></span></i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i>After the Gunks, next stop was the Red River Gorge, Kentucky where we teamed up with a whole slew of Canucks to sample the famed sandstone sport climbing. This is Mandoline getting limbered up for a shopping spree. We had to stock up on wine in Lexington because the regions surrounding the climbing prohibit the sale of alcohol other than beer (but chain smoking cigarettes inside your place of business is TOTALLY OK). </i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i><br /></i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i><br /></i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; font-style: normal; "><br /></span></i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; font-style: normal; "><img src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0bUmYLNoMN4/Tx3TpHjMoVI/AAAAAAAAB2g/ODhQI1bkAyU/s400/IMG_0874.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5700945406675689810" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 299px; height: 400px; " /></span></i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; ">Jer lookin' mighty suspicious</span></i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i><br /></i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i><br /></i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; font-style: normal; "><img src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-l-J6232CDnQ/Tx3TpfN0HOI/AAAAAAAAB2w/u691XJ8wUK0/s400/IMG_0891.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5700945413028453602" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 299px; " /></span></i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; ">The climbing in the Red River Gorge is really good and relentless. I have never so desperately needed rest days and a hot tub to soak my aching muscles in. </span></i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><br /></span></i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><br /></span></i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-f9F1iOYHjwE/Tx3Tqj7Yk5I/AAAAAAAAB3Q/RqCgzQ_SpDQ/s400/P1050036.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5700945431473197970" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 300px; height: 400px; " /></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><i>Patterns in the sandstone</i></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><i><br /></i></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_ZfJzhk4izo/Tx3S8i5uVwI/AAAAAAAAB2U/4iueJxpBqy4/s400/IMG_0872.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5700944640923817730" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 299px; " /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xbrOx2XRTjw/Tx3S8WSCHfI/AAAAAAAAB2I/6X4_f0cTUrc/s400/IMG_0869.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5700944637536116210" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 299px; height: 400px; " /></span></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i>At the crag, I befriended these locals: Kermit and Sparky.</i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i><br /></i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i><br /></i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; font-style: normal; "><img src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XaK6gdB1haY/Tx3TqMa7ReI/AAAAAAAAB3E/RMtzs16aOvM/s400/IMG_0934.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5700945425163044322" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 299px; " /></span></i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i>Cool windfarm on our cross-country return journey.</i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i><br /></i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; font-style: normal; "><img src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_S7W9t8M9Zo/Tx3fQ9BoXVI/AAAAAAAAB4A/SQdyxKblR6M/s400/IMG_0921.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5700958185673219410" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 299px; " /></span></i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i>Sometimes really long drives make your head explode</i></div><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-eO807s95nAU/Tx3S7UBh-PI/AAAAAAAAB1k/DexvttskAdw/s1600/IMG_0825.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"></a><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-eO807s95nAU/Tx3S7UBh-PI/AAAAAAAAB1k/DexvttskAdw/s1600/IMG_0825.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"></a></div>Jasminhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18106615510798115812noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4843724593150614779.post-80095081764680995892012-01-14T21:50:00.002-07:002012-01-14T21:52:55.127-07:00Poached vid<div>Evan put together another little vid about skiing at <a href="http://vmt.ca">VMT</a>.</div><div><br /></div><iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/-3w7gpR-eWY" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen=""></iframe>Jasminhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18106615510798115812noreply@blogger.com0